351w Power Potential?
- Thread starter wickedmach1
- Start date
SadbutTrue
Founding Member
AFR185/Comp 280H/750 Demon/Weiand Stealth/1 3/4 Headers with full exhaust would probably do it...
dolfan87
Founding Member
Sad But True gave you a pretty good starting point. I would do all the little friction reducing tricks. Roller cam, standard volume oil pump, roller rockers, electric fuel pump instead of mechanical, ect.ect.
Then I would make sure that bad boy flowed as much air as possible.
That is the best way to make power, and keep it streetable. Build it smart.
87
Then I would make sure that bad boy flowed as much air as possible.
That is the best way to make power, and keep it streetable. Build it smart.
87
Route666
Active Member
What do you use to cover the hole where the mechanical fuel pump used to be if you convert to lecky?
Mosse said:"Fuelpump block off plate"
How about, if I may capture part of this thread, what about with stock heads, or cleaned up stock heads?
Usually, to have the work done on stock heads to achieve 425hp potential is the same money as buying a set of aluminum ones and getting a good weight savings to boot. Unless you are skilled to do the work on the stock ones yourself.
milner351
Founding Member
I've done some of this and decided to go stroker.
First and foremost, HEADS.
I have twisted wedge, but I wouldn't buy them again because the relocated valves create piston problems with bigger cams.
I'd say for a street engine AFR185 is the way to go.
Also, if going carbureted, make sure you pick an intake that is a dual plane / modified dual plane set up, like the edlebrock rpm air gap for example, or at least a performer rpm.
I'd make sure you balance the combination, and make sure you go with a good harmonic balancer and flywheel / flexplate, and have them balanced with the crank.
USE ARP ROD BOLTS!
Get a desktop dyno program and play around until you find something you like.
You might also talk to the guys at REED cams, tell them your goals, and get their recomendations.
First and foremost, HEADS.
I have twisted wedge, but I wouldn't buy them again because the relocated valves create piston problems with bigger cams.
I'd say for a street engine AFR185 is the way to go.
Also, if going carbureted, make sure you pick an intake that is a dual plane / modified dual plane set up, like the edlebrock rpm air gap for example, or at least a performer rpm.
I'd make sure you balance the combination, and make sure you go with a good harmonic balancer and flywheel / flexplate, and have them balanced with the crank.
USE ARP ROD BOLTS!
Get a desktop dyno program and play around until you find something you like.
You might also talk to the guys at REED cams, tell them your goals, and get their recomendations.
69'Elvira
Founding Member
wickedmach1 said:
It's pretty easy, look at my setup and put comp 280H in it and you have 450hp right in.
My cam is standart, not even mild.
When you guys say to use the Comp Cams 280H, is that for a '69 351w engine? Comp Cams has the retro-fit camshafts for engines that did not come as a roller from the factory. Do I need one of these retro-fits? What parts will I need for the roller conversion? After I do the roller conversion, can I use the 280H? I guess I don't understand the retro=fit camshafts. Please help.
there are a couple ways to do the retro-fit if you go to a roller cam.
1) you can get a reduced base circle cam and use stock roller lifters
2) use a standard cam and get retro fit lifters
the reason you would have do this is because the roller lifter's oiling hole is raised in the bore to compensate for the roller on the end of the lifter, which the OEM's fixed by using a redesigned block with taller lifter bores which is actually the best way to go, but if you go the retro-fit route either will work, but there are drawbacks to both options. with the small base circle cam the diamater of the cam is smaller so it is inherently not as strong as a standard base circle cam. with the retro-fit lifters you could compromise the oiling capability of the engine as the oil holes are not where they should be and i believe you are limited on the lift you can use because you could have a problem exposing the oil hole in the lifter body thereby losing oil pressure to lifter causing it to collapse
1) you can get a reduced base circle cam and use stock roller lifters
2) use a standard cam and get retro fit lifters
the reason you would have do this is because the roller lifter's oiling hole is raised in the bore to compensate for the roller on the end of the lifter, which the OEM's fixed by using a redesigned block with taller lifter bores which is actually the best way to go, but if you go the retro-fit route either will work, but there are drawbacks to both options. with the small base circle cam the diamater of the cam is smaller so it is inherently not as strong as a standard base circle cam. with the retro-fit lifters you could compromise the oiling capability of the engine as the oil holes are not where they should be and i believe you are limited on the lift you can use because you could have a problem exposing the oil hole in the lifter body thereby losing oil pressure to lifter causing it to collapse
I wont claim the "plus" in your 425+ figure. But I should get 420-425 from my stock stroke 351W. Any quality heads with a 2.02/1.61 valve setup should get there with the 278-282 cam that ya'll are mentioning. I am using a mech fuel pump since I am carbed, but I am saving even more power with an electric water pump.
SLIGHTLY_INSANE
Founding Member
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