351W question for my '68

All you have to do to carb it is to swap the intake, add a carb, and plug the smog holes in the heads. You'll also need a correct oil pan, pickup tube, dipstick, and exhaust manifolds/headers. I don't know an awful lot about 351W swaps so I hesitate to say more.

I'd put on an Edelbrock carb and a PerformerRPM intake (and I happen to have one for sale over in the classifieds )

As for hopping it up, how far do you want to go? Off the top of my head, I'd use a Trickflow #2 5.0 roller cam, but there are better ones out there for a lot of builds, it just depends on how you want to build it.
EDIT: That ain't no C6, its an E4OD, which is way too damn big to fit in a mustang.

stang1986GT said:

Don't I have to swap out the cam too? Aren't they ground differently or something?

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Huh? You don't *have* to swap out the cam unless you want to. You'll need a distributor with a steel gear to carb it too BTW.

stang1986GT said:

What about the fuel pump? If I run a mechanical pump, what about the pump eccentric? Will I have to run an electric pump?

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It ought to be like a 5.0 and if it is, chances are the timing cover can be drilled to take both the fuel pump and front-mounted dipstick. If this is the case, swap eccentics and your in business.

I would use a Wieand Stealth and Holley myself.
Much better stuff than the Federal Mogul carb that Edelbrock boxes up.

You need a timing cover from an older SBF with a fuel pump, proper timing pointer location, and dipstick provision. Any 289/302 that is correct for your model car will work. You may need to swap to the balancer and pulleys for your year model too.
That way you have the correct timing marks, and accessory placement. Oh, and the correct water pump...

The 97 distributor won't work.
You need an early points or Duraspark off a Windsor.
Personally, I would use a Duraspark triggering an MSD instead of the factory box.
If you find a points unit, swap in a Pertronix 1.
Use the steel gear from the 97 distributor if you keep the roller cam.

On the emission ports in back of the heads:
Cut off the pipes from the blocks that bolt to the heads, then swap them side to side, turned upside-down, then they become their own block off plates. Use new gaskets.

You need a Windsor oil pan from any front sump car.

289/302 exhaust will usually work.
I have also had good luck using SBF brackets on 351s.
Power steering can be hit and miss.
Never swapped AC...

Dave

Edit:
Always change the oil pump.
A regular flow pump is cool.
If you really must use an HV pump, use an aftermarket upgrade pump driveshaft.
I use the high strength driveshaft even with a regular pump.
HV pumps are over rated and suck HP away.

Check the valve springs too.
Springs and valve umbrellas are real easy to swap when the engine is out and should be done on an engine with some miles.
Will make you much happier than dealing with a used engine that smokes badly or has weak springs.

If the engine came in a truck originally, it will have a good roller timing chain. If it is out of a car, it will likely have the plastic upper gear, which is junk.
The thing I don't know is if you can even use a mechanical pump with the stock timing gear set.
You will need to find a fuel pump eccentric that will mate with the cam, cam retainer, and timing set. Use caution here! The wrong parts mix matched are not a good thing!