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Engine 351W - Std cam or Roller?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ClevelandTim
  • Start date Start date Dec 1, 2019

ClevelandTim

Member
Jan 14, 2018
28
5
13
Cleveland, OH
Dec 1, 2019
#1
  • Dec 1, 2019
  • #1
Guys,

I'm currently figuring out the direction I should go regarding upgrading my 351W (M-6007-B351). It's an old GT40, non-roller cam crate engine. I have a set of TFS TW 170's single spring heads, 58cc (TFS-51410002-M58) that I got very cheap (I know these are on the small side but they are way better than iron GT40's) The original cam is a flat tappet cam, .491 valve lift intake, .509 exhaust valve lift. 220 duration intake, 230 exhaust duration. It has a Edelbrock performer RPM, Demon mechanical 750 , with an AOD/3K stall, and 4.10 gears I used to do 12.7 on the motor, 11.7 on the bottle.

Here are my questions:
1) Is this cam a decent match with the heads to the point that I should just leave the cam alone?
2) If I do switch cams Is it worth while switching to a roller cam or avoiding the expense of double valve springs, distributor gear, roller lifters, push rods and just get a new standard hyd cam with more aggressive specs?
3) I currently use 1.7 rocker arms. If I go to a new cam buy 1.6's or stay with the 1.7?

Thanks in advance!
Tim
 

vristang

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2005
4,933
101
124
Seattle
Dec 2, 2019
#2
  • Dec 2, 2019
  • #2
Carb and nitrous are outside my sphere, so no idea on how appropriate that cam is.

swapping to roller cam to avoid spring expense is looking at it backwards, imo...
To convert to roller cam on an non-roller block (check the casting number near the starter for the block year), requires using a reduced core cam (not ideal), or running link bar lifters (pretty pricey last I looked). If you don't do one of these, and run a standard core roller cam using the factory style 302 lifters, you will end up with oil control issues, as this setup pushes the lifter high enough in the lifter bore to spray oil into the lifter valley.

Either rocker size can work with a cam, if the cam is selected with those rockers in mind.
 

ClevelandTim

Member
Jan 14, 2018
28
5
13
Cleveland, OH
Dec 2, 2019
#3
  • Dec 2, 2019
  • #3
vristang said:
Carb and nitrous are outside my sphere, so no idea on how appropriate that cam is.

swapping to roller cam to avoid spring expense is looking at it backwards, imo...
To convert to roller cam on an non-roller block (check the casting number near the starter for the block year), requires using a reduced core cam (not ideal), or running link bar lifters (pretty pricey last I looked). If you don't do one of these, and run a standard core roller cam using the factory style 302 lifters, you will end up with oil control issues, as this setup pushes the lifter high enough in the lifter bore to spray oil into the lifter valley.

Either rocker size can work with a cam, if the cam is selected with those rockers in mind.
Click to expand...
Jason, The block is set up fro roller cam. So I can avoid some of the headaches you mentioned! Thanks for info.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
27,844
10,520
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polk county florida
Dec 2, 2019
#4
  • Dec 2, 2019
  • #4
If you can use a roller cam that is the way to go regardless of anything else, less hassle and better cam selection after all the other stuff is done, ie: springs and distributor upgrade.
You did say it is a roller block. Take advantage of it. JMO
 
Reactions: ClevelandTim

vristang

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2005
4,933
101
124
Seattle
Dec 2, 2019
#5
  • Dec 2, 2019
  • #5
Well, if the block is a roller block, that's what I would use...
 
Reactions: ClevelandTim
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