363 Long or Short block

My 88 currently has a stock bottom end, trick flow 170 heads, 42 pound injectors, edelbrock rpm II intake, 70mm, throttle body, powerdyne supercharger.
Should I buy a short block 363 and reuse everything but the powerdyne or get a fully built long block with better flowing heads and intake. Is the additional cost worth it.
Or, use the 170 heads but change the intake to a Box R with a bigger throttle body.
Also what size injector should I run on a naturally aspirated 363?
All opinions are welcomed. Thank you
 
I would like to upgrade since it has a small Crower cam. It puts out 417 at the wheel. I would like more power and not have the low boost powerdyne charger. Do you think I should should stroke my block to 347, have heads worked on, nice cam, better intake?
 
Something to keep in mind is that you’re nearing the limit to your factory block. Honestly, I can’t answer most of your questions.. I don’t have much experience. I suspect your heads would be undersized for a 363. Hopefully someone else with knowledge about engine combos will chime in.

Your budget is also a factor here and good info to provide so people can provide the best advice possible.
 
Powerdynes do not put out too much. I estimate 7 pounds judging by what others say about them. My goal is a naturally aspirated 530 horse at crank. I have had communication with Jim and Nicole from fordstrokers. It’s a hard decision to make because I am not too mechanically able and would be paying for everything to be installed
 
My 88 currently has a stock bottom end, trick flow 170 heads, 42 pound injectors, edelbrock rpm II intake, 70mm, throttle body, powerdyne supercharger.
Should I buy a short block 363 and reuse everything but the powerdyne or get a fully built long block with better flowing heads and intake. Is the additional cost worth it.
Or, use the 170 heads but change the intake to a Box R with a bigger throttle body.
Also what size injector should I run on a naturally aspirated 363?
All opinions are welcomed. Thank you
Kind of a “rabbit hole” kind of question.

The heads can be sent out and ported, which will help a good bit with a 363. Depending on what you plan on running for a cam, the springs may will probably need upgrading, and 7/16 rocker studs would be nice if they aren’t already.

The rpm 2 will need some major port work to keep up with a healthy 363 as well, but could be done. Might not be as cost effective as box r, but will also have far less issues with fitment. Throttle body is on the small side too, but will work decent.

Eric weingartner does some nice work, and will take customer supplied parts.

The current 42lb injectors you already have will work just fine on a 363.

Jim and Nicole are great, but be prepared to wait a decent while to get a long or short block from them. Since you’re not too mechanically inclined, it might be a better move to invest in a long block, and just sell the current setup you have now.
 
It is only a rule of thumb and there are a ton of variables that go into it but...

500 FWHP / 400 RWHP are both used to describe the theoretical range where it starts getting iffy.

With an N/A build, you're talking about a lot of RPM for 500 HP.
With a boosted build, Tuning mistakes, over revving, and lean fuel at the top, all lend themselves to revealing a weak 2-bolt main.

Again though... None of this is written in stone. The test for me has always been:

What kind of money am I putting into this block? Do I trust the block to keep the guts inside at the power levels I'm shooting for?

If it's close, spend the money on the upgraded block. If you got blocks laying around like pet turds in a yard... Meh... spares are good.


In either case, I would opt for the better block. Even if I'm doing a 500 HP N/A build, It would be solid lifter, light weight valve train, and I'd want to rev it to the moon (because is sounds badass).
 
The more hp a stock block has to handle they also get sensitive to rpm. 400 fwhp at 7800 rpm may not last long and in the same breath 500 fwhp at 6800 rpm may not last long.

I’m chomping at the bit to put a solid roller in the 331 in my Coupe but it’s already 460ish fwhp with a stock block. At some point I’ll break down and put a good block in it but right now money is going elsewhere.
 
The more hp a stock block has to handle they also get sensitive to rpm. 400 fwhp at 7800 rpm may not last long and in the same breath 500 fwhp at 6800 rpm may not last long.

I’m chomping at the bit to put a solid roller in the 331 in my Coupe but it’s already 460ish fwhp with a stock block. At some point I’ll break down and put a good block in it but right now money is going elsewhere.
Yeah I hope my builder finds a block soon or that the fourth one ends up being good. I'd like to work on the car when I'm off mostly December I'd like to be pulling the other engine.

Whenever I drive my other car after 94 at 300 to the wheel, I am really wanting to do another build for it but I want to do this other setup first so I will know which route I want to go. Since I'm doing a 331 stroker now for the 95 I'm thinking about a 363 but probably with a blower. Reading some stuff online right around 500 to the wheel sounds good.

I'm thinking Dart block & either a ported performer 2 or ported systemax 2. Not trying to mess with the box and Hood clearance issues LOL. Even though I will run a cowl hood or keep the Cobra Hood on, I don't want to to run too high of a cowl