3g upgrade... PA Performance?

No idea about their cust serv but their products are top notch. I've heard of the odd unit here and there being defective (unavoidable) but replacements arriving in timely fashion.
 
I had no problems with shipment time and the color instructions and quality of the alternator and wire upgrade kits are quite nice.

That is about the extent of customer service I encountered. I never called them so I do not know, but their products are nice!
 
Shortly I'll be running about a 1000watt sound system, an electric fan, and HIDs. Will a 150amp alt be able to handle pretty much anything I can throw at it? What about a 200amp alt? Would a 200amp alt be more drag on the engine?
 
Shortly I'll be running about a 1000watt sound system, an electric fan, and HIDs. Will a 150amp alt be able to handle pretty much anything I can throw at it?

You might want to step up to a 200 amp alternator, and a 2 ga. power wire. :shrug: It's not a question of what the alternator's rated output is, it's a question of what it can put out at low rpms. At idle the alternator will only be able to put out about half of what it's rated for, and it sounds like you want to put on some high-demand accessories.
 
And the answer is... volts x amps = watts, 14 volts x 150 amps = 2100 watts.

TRWXXA's comments about idle output compared to cruse are a very important part of the picture that you need to consider. The single wire alternators have lower output current at low speeds than a conventional multi wire alternator.
 
So the PA Performance 200amp alt, rated at 100+ idle amps, should be good?

Also, I was wondering, would this new alternator take more power from the engine? Is it harder for it to spin the pulley?
It should be good enough. 100 amps (idle) is good for up to 1400 watts of power. You might be a little bit in the hole if you have your electric fan, HVAC fan running, and all your lights on.

Yes, your alternator will take more power from the motor. There is no free electricity. The more current your alternator has to produce, the more power it has to take from the motor. It's my understanding that the 3Gs rob less power than the stock alternators under the same load, but you will have parasitic loss proportional to the electrical demand.

If you're that concerned about the parasitic power loss, keep the stereo off. Or ditch it altogether, and save the weight as well.:D
 
Yes, thats what I figured, but I'd be more than doubling the electrical power coming from the motor.
No. You are only doubling the ABILITY of the motor (alternator) to produce electrical power. The alternator only puts out as much current as is being demanded at the time. If you have no accessories turned on, your alternator might only be putting out a few amps to run the computer and charge the battery. If you crank on all the lights, the HVAC fan, the stereo, and the electric cooling fan kicks on, your alternator might be putting out something like 150 amps. If this demand exceeds the capacity of the alternator (at the RPM it's running), then the extra current is drawn from the battery (discharge).

Am I going to lose a noticable amount of speed?
:shrug: You are going to rob power from the motor. The more current put out by the alternator, the more power it takes from the motor to produce it. It has nothing to do with which alternator you put on the car, it has to do with the fact that you are asking the engine to convert more of its power into electricity, rather than putting it to the rear wheels. You have chosen to put high electrical demand items on your vehicle, and the power to run them has to come from somewhere

Power (watts) = amps X voltage

A 200amp alternator that is putting out 100 amps is putting out 1.4 kilowatts. 1KW = 1.34 hp, so it's taking almost 2 hp (not including mechanical losses) to make that 100 amps.

If it's putting out its maximum 200 amps, it takes 3.8 hp. To account for mechanical loss, you should probably double that.

So you are losing 4 to 7 hp at the flywheel, and whatever that translates to at the rear wheels.
 
No. You are only doubling the ABILITY of the motor (alternator) to produce electrical power. The alternator only puts out as much current as is being demanded at the time. If you have no accessories turned on, your alternator might only be putting out a few amps to run the computer and charge the battery. If you crank on all the lights, the HVAC fan, the stereo, and the electric cooling fan kicks on, your alternator might be putting out something like 150 amps. If this demand exceeds the capacity of the alternator (at the RPM it's running), then the extra current is drawn from the battery (discharge).


:shrug: You are going to rob power from the motor. The more current put out by the alternator, the more power it takes from the motor to produce it. It has nothing to do with which alternator you put on the car, it has to do with the fact that you are asking the engine to convert more of its power into electricity, rather than putting it to the rear wheels. You have chosen to put high electrical demand items on your vehicle, and the power to run them has to come from somewhere

Power (watts) = amps X voltage

A 200amp alternator that is putting out 100 amps is putting out 1.4 kilowatts. 1KW = 1.34 hp, so it's taking almost 2 hp (not including mechanical losses) to make that 100 amps.

If it's putting out its maximum 200 amps, it takes 3.8 hp. To account for mechanical loss, you should probably double that.

So you are losing 4 to 7 hp at the flywheel, and whatever that translates to at the rear wheels.
Good bit of info, learned something new today. Thank you
 
No. You are only doubling the ABILITY of the motor (alternator) to produce electrical power. The alternator only puts out as much current as is being demanded at the time. If you have no accessories turned on, your alternator might only be putting out a few amps to run the computer and charge the battery. If you crank on all the lights, the HVAC fan, the stereo, and the electric cooling fan kicks on, your alternator might be putting out something like 150 amps. If this demand exceeds the capacity of the alternator (at the RPM it's running), then the extra current is drawn from the battery (discharge).


:shrug: You are going to rob power from the motor. The more current put out by the alternator, the more power it takes from the motor to produce it. It has nothing to do with which alternator you put on the car, it has to do with the fact that you are asking the engine to convert more of its power into electricity, rather than putting it to the rear wheels. You have chosen to put high electrical demand items on your vehicle, and the power to run them has to come from somewhere

Power (watts) = amps X voltage

A 200amp alternator that is putting out 100 amps is putting out 1.4 kilowatts. 1KW = 1.34 hp, so it's taking almost 2 hp (not including mechanical losses) to make that 100 amps.

If it's putting out its maximum 200 amps, it takes 3.8 hp. To account for mechanical loss, you should probably double that.

So you are losing 4 to 7 hp at the flywheel, and whatever that translates to at the rear wheels.

:hail2:

Thank you.
 
I went ahead and ordered the 200amp alternator from PA Performance. I got my sub, amp, and wiring kit in today also. I went into the local Tweeter just curious to know how much they would charge for a box. The guy said $1.5k, $1000 labor and $500 parts, to $3k, 2000 labor and $1000 parts. I don't think $1000 of fiberglass will fit in the car. Anyway, like everyone else, I know someone who can build me a box for parts. Next month I hope to get the new comps and amp.
 
Just a note: HID's use less power than an equal output normal bulb. Now.. if you are keeping your stock lights, and adding more lights, then that will obviously increase the demand. However, if you are replacing the stock lights with HID's, you will probably be using LESS power.