3v swap ?'s

[itshowmuch]

Bill if your out there or anyone else.

Have you found a good solution for the VCT? did you engineer a component that actually simulates the VCT? i read somewhere that if you install the timing chain 1 tooth off that will retard the timing 17 degrees and that is a simple compromise so the VCT won't be stuck at fully advanced. what is the best/easiest solution?

How did you convert the electronic throttle body to mechanical?

How did you convert the electronic TPS to mechanical?

do the stock compents just bolt on?

is there a company that manufactures full length headers for the 3v that fit the 96'-98'?

who has the best P/P job for 3v's? livernois? fox lake?

which cam are available for the 5.4? will the 4.6 3v cams work just as well or better/worse in the 5.4?

where can i get that 3/4" adapter for the intake so my stock upper will bolt right up?

does the t-45 or TKO just bolt right up to the 5.4 3v? stock bell housing will work no problem? just change the flywheel and clutch assembly?

-jp

 

[billfisher]

the compromise that is easiest is to limit vct sprocket travel and use a constant duty 12v solenoid operated by a 5v lo/hi relay and voltage splitter.

tap crank position sensor positive wire. run that to a 1.2k ohm resistor, to the relay coil and "T" with one leg going to a 2k ohm variable resistor and then ground. the other leg of the 't' goes to the relay and then ground.

tap power from battery to the high amperage/voltage side of the relay contacts to the retrofitted push type solenoid then to ground.

carefully grind the rim of the vct solenoid remove crap and tig weld threaded 1/4" plate drilled and tapped for the solenoid base threads. plunger for solenoid needs to travel 3/8". seal solenoid with shrink wrap.

at least that's the plan. how to limit travel? i have no idea yet. i may just weld the tracks to stop them.

 

[billfisher]

i forgot to mention why i changed from PWM.



the feedback system retards the cam then positions the spool to just maintain the sprocket. if i just position the spool in a fixed position the cam will continue to retard until it hits the 50 degree stops. that really isn't going to work. so retardiing it to a fixed position i set is the only way. in a couple of weeks (after i run it with the short runner intake) i'm pulling the front cover and removing the whole VCT system for retrofitting. opening rate control you say? i have a solution, but i'm going to wait to post it until i know more. but a relief hole in the sprocket to bleed oil when the solenoid is de-energized. and the spool opens at a fixed opening size to fill the sprocket faster than the relief hole leaks it. .050" or less. i will surely post it all then. i need to get the relief size right so i can just adjust spool throw for faster fill and rate of retard.



hey MODERATORS surely i deserve a title. and something besides "banned"

 

[Mossberg]

WTF did he just say? I feel like I need a crash course in modular motor speak.

 

[itshowmuch]

can you just remove the VCT feature and go back to manual timing control (ie:timing gear)?

anyone got any foresite into the other questions?

 

[billfisher]

ok the rest...

remove the motor assembly. take it all out. there is a cap covering the preload spring that also has a flat blade the i am using for the bellcrank. purchase a 9/32 1/4" 6 point deepwell socket. cut 1/4" off the hex end. adjust the throttle shaft by removing a little metal on the corners. slide the hex end over the shaft. drill a 5/64" hole and tap it 3/32" through the socket and shaft. put screw with locktite. grind screw flush. drill hole through plastic cap. ream for enough space for easy shaft rotation. snap in place.

purchase 1" 1/4" extension. cut female end off. leave no taper. purchase 2" electricians hole plug. remove foam in plug. place two caps back to back where it leaves a groove for throttle cable. drill 1/4" hole in DEAD CENTER. drill 6 x 6/32 holes evenly around circumference. pop rivet halves together. pick a place to cut across section for cable to lock to bellcrank. cut the slot 1/4" deep and cable thickness wide. drill a 6/32 hole through bellcrank at end of slot.

where the motor metal cover is removed fashion a bracket for cable cover mounting. it needs to seal the empty motor cavity and be the correct length for cable travel. there is no need to do this as i used the 4.6 elbow and TB or... just get a good 4.6 elbow and 75mm TB. tps just needs to be swapped. remove the plastic throttle stop screw and clean the remaining plastic out with a tap. put a 1/4" coarse threaded screw with lock nut and position later for idle. there is no IAC on the manifold. make one. i haven't.

stock components mount normally. you can't use your hydro pump. you need truck model. lengthen hydro fluid return line.

nobody makes headers or manifolds that fit. not even close.

heads and came are identical to 4.6 3v. cams available some day.

you have to make the spacer that is shaped like the 4.6 at the top and the 5.4 3v round at the bottom. but 1" plate. drill 9/16" hole in middle. break bandsaw blade. thread through hole a reweld the saw blade back together. cut hole for 5.4 3v size first, then finish cutting the 4.6 hole size with jigsaw. make sure to blend the two holes together at an angle. purchase a 1/4" SS plate 4" x 5". cut hole for 5.4 3v size. drill 4 hole for mounting to 3v manifold. countersink to just above surface depth. drill 4 reliefs into 1" adapter plate for those screws. drill SS plate and 1" plate for 4.6 elbow mounting screws. glue elbow screws into SS plate to use as studs for elbow. (pointing up) silicone 1/4" plate, and screw to manifold. place 1" plate onto studs and 4.6 elbow on that. use locking screws and tighten elbow down. i forget the length of the screws, so experiment.

see it's really easy to do.



t-45 won't last long. EDO blew his up after 50 runs i think. get a heavy tranny. when cammed it WILL have 400+ lb-ft. so you need to pick tranny for that. if you drop it at 5600 and hook up, i shudder to think what it will do to a weak tranny.