4.10's bolt ons vs. T/A

Bill9000 · Jul 16, 2005

hopefully I dont start a flame war here, just curious...

I have tor ebuild my rear end, cause I didnt do soemthing right when I installed the 3.73's and now I'm going to 4.10's, and I was wondering...

after all the time and money, etc. making a 4.6 quicker, how would say a GT with 4.10's off road H, flows, K&N, etc. do against a '00 Ram Air Trans Am that was stock????

Hornetsnest · Jul 16, 2005

Not very well considering my buddy's WS6 ran low 13's completely stock. I don't think intake/exhaust/gears will shave the full second off your time you need in order to keep up with a stock WS6. However if the guy can't drive and you can...who knows...

EDIT: Saw cams in your profile about to go in...a good tune and you should be able to keep up, but again it depends on the driving.

DropTopPony · Jul 16, 2005

if its your car with your mods....not a chance! you need to do a PI swap with 4.10's and boltons. Then you have a chance. But until you ditch that npi intake etc....stick to racing grand ams.

flashstang04 · Jul 16, 2005

Being a vert is gonna kill you. It's nice to drop the top, but that stuff weighs a ton. Throw in the fact that you have npi heads.....even worse, but the cams will def. help!

DropTopPony · Jul 16, 2005

flashstang04 said:
Being a vert is gonna kill you. It's nice to drop the top, but that stuff weighs a ton. Throw in the fact that you have npi heads.....even worse, but the cams will def. help!

I can't see VT stage 2 cams helping much on a stock npi gt. The intake will not allow the cams to breathe over 4500rpms or so. You better atleast get a PI intake.

97gtblue · Jul 16, 2005

your gay!!!!!!!!!!!!

kboy262 · Jul 16, 2005

I didn't think the VT cams will work with the NPI heads.

Mustangl3 · Jul 16, 2005

With a hundred shot you can hang with z06 vettes?

97gtblue · Jul 16, 2005

from a 50 mph roll...i think its the 4.10's and 100 shot,good combination

Bill9000 · Jul 16, 2005

well, I'm really torn now... the gears really made my car have a much better SOTP feel... but now, I am verys eriously considering buying an LS1 car... if theyr eally do run as well as the general opinion says, then, I find it hard to put more money in the Stang, cause if I put all the mods on the T/A that I've done to the stang, I'd probably be a lot faster.... so I dunno.......

I love mustangs, but damn.... and the Ram Air kit on the T/A's just looks so nice...

crazykid2056 · Jul 18, 2005

The Trans Am's are low 13's right off the showroom floor. It's going to take a 97GT alot of mod's to get even near that.

If you thought that was fast, wait till after 100mph when that Trans Am starts really pulling like hell...

jamez1502 · Jul 18, 2005

keep the stang spend the extra money to go into the ta for boost.

jstreet0204 · Jul 18, 2005

Bill9000 said:
well, I'm really torn now... the gears really made my car have a much better SOTP feel... but now, I am verys eriously considering buying an LS1 car... if theyr eally do run as well as the general opinion says, then, I find it hard to put more money in the Stang, cause if I put all the mods on the T/A that I've done to the stang, I'd probably be a lot faster.... so I dunno.......

I love mustangs, but damn.... and the Ram Air kit on the T/A's just looks so nice...

Putting the same mods on an ls1 car is not nearly as easy though (except for gears maybe) so it will cost your more in labor or frustration if you are doing the work yourself.

BooWFO · Jul 18, 2005

jstreet0204 said:
Putting the same mods on an ls1 car is not nearly as easy though (except for gears maybe) so it will cost your more in labor or frustration if you are doing the work yourself.

That's the reason I didn't get a 4th gen f body. Only gen I haven't owned. seems Like you gotta drop the motor out from under them for just about everything.

Q's Stang · Jul 18, 2005

how would a 99+ GT run against an LS1 if it was fully bolted up as an auto?

SSS281 · Jul 19, 2005

everyone always says a full bolt-on gt will run a ls1. ive owned both, i dont think so but thats just my opinion. not sure exactly what classifies as a bolt on but if it means t/a, u/d, intake, exhaust [midpipe and c/b no longtubes!], t/b plenum, some minor suspension work? gears maybe, etc the 'smaller' of mods..i dont see how you can hang with even a stock ls1. fact is a lot of guys with bolt-ons run into ls1s with owners who cant manage their cars. an ls1 car is very hard to drive in comparison to a GT. they suck horribly off the line, its a much larger vehicle, its hard to see over the dash even. they might sound like excuses but fact is most ls1 cars arent driven properly and bolt on GTs might run with them from 0-30 and they hit the next light so they figure their bolt-on car just ran the same time. id like to know what a completely stock ls1 just on slicks would run at the track with a very experienced driver. i bet the times would be much MUCH lower than weve seen. [i used slicks to counter their crappy traction]. now im no ls1 freak im just stating what ive experienced owning both cars. yea u might hear everyone always say it wasnt driven right is jsut a babys excuse, whatever. not a single one of the race stories ever says 'beat one from 50-100' because traction is no longer an issue and the stang gets raped. my old car with just some minor mods felt SO damn strong i bet itd put up a bit of a fight with my new ride...if it were driven well

and to the thread starter..get those heads on & cams, drop the compression enough to run a blower...get one of those, and youll be able to manage your own. dunno about those ls2s yet, havent run into one. but when my car comes out of the shop theres a new vette i wanna pick a fight with.

forpit2000gt · Jul 19, 2005

97gtblue said:
from a 50 mph roll...i think its the 4.10's and 100 shot,good combination

What kind of race is that?????

forpit2000gt · Jul 19, 2005

BTW, The TA will be quicker.

billfisher · Jul 19, 2005

ls-1 will kill you

I have beaten plenty of LT camaros and t/a's. I recently took on a LS-1 car for fun and to gauge my car. He was a car length ahead of me at 100 ft. then he really took off. i tried him at highway speeds 70-135 mph and it was worse. i need gas or blower to compete. non pi heads flow plenty at .490 lift and above. Ford racing heads are similar port shape, not PI shape. I am going to port a pair of non pi's add larger exhaust valves, slightly larger intakes(i know shrouding is a prob) remove the swirl brow, mill them about .040. It is worth investigating an old big block chevy trick of notching the intake side of the block to unshroud the valve. etc. I am a little behind the curve on 4.6's. It seems bolt on's is all we are trying. aluminum heads can be welded. I can TIG material on the outside(intake valley area) of the ports for more porting space for example. My guess is that laminar airflow on non PI's is superior, and a intake port volume around 175-200cc's shouls be more than enough. Laminar airflow and port volume dicide power not just volume. If a port stalls or loses airflow at a lower lift it will flow less regarless of size. The flow number I have seen for the NPI above .490 lift is encouraging. A little volume increase to improve the velocity at higher RPM's should net reasonable flow at .600. I quit the scene for a few years (15).

SSS281 · Jul 19, 2005

97gtblue said:
from a 50 mph roll...i think its the 4.10's and 100 shot,good combination

215hp + 100hp + ~30hp = 345hp in 3500lb car
vs.
405hp in 3100lb car

400lbs + 60hp on you, no way man..he didnt drop to a gear he shouldve or somethin because that car has a big advantage not to mention much greater aerodynamics at high speeds not to mention i was a bit generous with the 30hp because you have to retard your timing to spray which takes off hp from that 'chip'

4.10's bolt ons vs. T/A

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