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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-

4.6 2v Bolt Ons

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jaime Tucjer
  • Start date Start date Aug 14, 2017
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squeak93

15 Year Member
Jun 2, 2005
2,321
398
164
Joplin, Missouri
Aug 17, 2017
#21
  • Aug 17, 2017
  • #21
Accufab and BBK are not in the same league, not even close.

Cams will swap to the new heads just fine. Be sure to degree them for each setup and recheck if even changing head gaskets.
 
J

Jaime Tucjer

Member
Aug 14, 2017
73
2
8
Aug 17, 2017
#22
  • Aug 17, 2017
  • #22
squeak93 said:
Accufab and BBK are not in the same league, not even close.

Cams will swap to the new heads just fine. Be sure to degree them for each setup and recheck if even changing head gaskets.
Click to expand...
So your saying Accufab is the better.
 
Reactions: Brady's 2003GT

squeak93

15 Year Member
Jun 2, 2005
2,321
398
164
Joplin, Missouri
Aug 17, 2017
#23
  • Aug 17, 2017
  • #23
Yes. Lol. By a long shot. BBK isn't horrible by any means but for not much more money the accufab pieces are way better quality wise. Performance they all work about the same.
 
Reactions: Brady's 2003GT

robertsa

Well-Known Member
Apr 22, 2017
159
44
58
San Antonio
Aug 18, 2017
#24
  • Aug 18, 2017
  • #24
Add up the cost of all the parts and tuning you're going to need and compare it to a supercharger from Vortech or Procharger. It could be an easier, more streetable, and reliable route to go depending on the power you're looking for.
 

RyanBell

Member
Jun 22, 2017
20
8
23
Aug 18, 2017
#25
  • Aug 18, 2017
  • #25
2,700 Pounds? Holy hell. How much of a car do you have left?
 
X

XxApolloxX97

Member
Mar 7, 2017
59
9
18
Aug 19, 2017
#26
  • Aug 19, 2017
  • #26
robertsa said:
Add up the cost of all the parts and tuning you're going to need and compare it to a supercharger from Vortech or Procharger. It could be an easier, more streetable, and reliable route to go depending on the power you're looking for.
Click to expand...
Not to disrespect you and With all respect to turbos and superchargers some times NA is just better (personally) if I could run 10s na vs boosted I'd rather. My reasoning is you run that fast na and throw boost at it later you'll be fast we're if you boost yeah you can add more but you'll be restricted and just end up getting the parts eventually. But he should get an aftermarket intake manifold if he wants to put nitrous into the motor plastic isn't the greatest.
 
B

blackgt460

Active Member
Jun 3, 2003
109
21
28
South East Pennsylvania
Aug 19, 2017
#27
  • Aug 19, 2017
  • #27
XxApolloxX97 said:
Not to disrespect you and With all respect to turbos and superchargers some times NA is just better (personally) if I could run 10s na vs boosted I'd rather. My reasoning is you run that fast na and throw boost at it later you'll be fast we're if you boost yeah you can add more but you'll be restricted and just end up getting the parts eventually. But he should get an aftermarket intake manifold if he wants to put nitrous into the motor plastic isn't the greatest.
Click to expand...

I read it as more of a streetable and cost issue. For example the weekend mechanic may not be the best at ripping motors apart and risk a proper running car. Figure a brand new vortech is like 4200 all in and with a tune would run as stock but plus 100+ HP. Nickle and dime parts plus labor for proper install if you don't have the means adds up quicker than one would think especially if problems occur. However, I do agree that most things mentioned here for bolt on would be a benefit and most still used on a supercharged car. Personally all I want out of my new edge is consistent 12 sec passes even 12.99999s lol and that's easier for me than many guys cause I'm in PA and my tracks are cecil county and atco which are both well into the negative hundreds in DA late and early in the season.
 
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X

XxApolloxX97

Member
Mar 7, 2017
59
9
18
Aug 19, 2017
#28
  • Aug 19, 2017
  • #28
blackgt460 said:
I read it as more of a streetable and cost issue. For example the weekend mechanic may not be the best at ripping motors apart and risk a proper running car. Figure a brand new vortech is like 4200 all in and with a tune would run as stock but plus 100+ HP. Nickle and dime parts plus labor for proper install if you don't have the means adds up quicker than one would think especially if problems occur. However, I do agree that most things mentioned here for bolt on would be a benefit and most still used on a supercharged car. Personally all I want out of my new edge is consistent 12 sec passes even 12.99999s lol and that's easier for me than many guys cause I'm in PA and my tracks are cecil county and atco which are both well into the negative hundreds in DA late and early in the season.
Click to expand...
True. Nitrous has to be the best streetable honestly run 13s on the street take it to the track and run 12s mid 11s. But supercharger is also more friendly than na I agree.
 

robertsa

Well-Known Member
Apr 22, 2017
159
44
58
San Antonio
Aug 20, 2017
#29
  • Aug 20, 2017
  • #29
XxApolloxX97 said:
Not to disrespect you and With all respect to turbos and superchargers some times NA is just better (personally) if I could run 10s na vs boosted I'd rather. My reasoning is you run that fast na and throw boost at it later you'll be fast we're if you boost yeah you can add more but you'll be restricted and just end up getting the parts eventually. But he should get an aftermarket intake manifold if he wants to put nitrous into the motor plastic isn't the greatest.
Click to expand...

If you make big power naturally aspirated, the work you've done likely won't like forced induction, for example running high compression. For most people, a simple 8-10 psi on an otherwise mostly stock engine will make them happy. It is also much more streetable than a high hp na engine.

The plastic intake is fine. The only time it would shatter due to running nitrous is if he has a backfire into the intake, where it won't matter what intake he has as it'll blow itself off the engine anyways.
 
Last edited: Aug 20, 2017
T

Ts1lightning63

Member
Jul 13, 2017
39
1
8
Canfield
Aug 20, 2017
#30
  • Aug 20, 2017
  • #30
XxApolloxX97 said:
You have a choice between edlebrock, professional products, and trickflow there's more just those are the main. Edlebrock will change the effective rpm range of your motor it's designed for higher rpms and you'll also need special rails and other stuff to make it work. Professional products is a cheep easy replacement and comes in 3 pieces so it can easily be ported but you'll find mixed reviews on it (I had one and loved it). But the trickflow is the most exspensive but has a great design I believe the maximum single tb size is 75mm but I believe you can change it to twin. But for tb size I'm not sure. The thing with nitrous is it's a more efficient air so it's basically like a high altitude jet bringing its own air you wouldn't have to worry about a massive amount of it I would say 75mm should be good.
Click to expand...
Where do you buy the trick flow heads and which one do you suggest for a build being discussed minus nitrous? What size cam do you suggest?
 
X

XxApolloxX97

Member
Mar 7, 2017
59
9
18
Aug 20, 2017
#31
  • Aug 20, 2017
  • #31
Ts1lightning63 said:
Where do you buy the trick flow heads and which one do you suggest for a build being discussed minus nitrous? What size cam do you suggest?
Click to expand...
Summit
Late model restoration
Modular headshop
Modular motorsports racing
Just some of the places that sell them. Only modular headshop and mmr will sell a ported trickflow set(out of the places I listed again lots of other places sell heads). I'm no cam expert I'd talk to the people you're buying it from about that. But for pi I would say streetable would be a stage 2.5 or 3 depending on cam grinds however the trickflows have a better setup so a smaller stage can go further with them I'd say a stage 1 or 2 would be very streetable but again it depends on how exactly MHS or MMR grind cams for the trickflow heads. Summit and LMR only sell the kit and they come with trickflow cams. Im no expert I can only give an opinion and point you in a direction. Once you fingure out who you're buying things from stick with them and tell them your goals they'll give you exact answers
 

Neuron

5 Year Member
Nov 6, 2016
859
192
93
Aug 21, 2017
#32
  • Aug 21, 2017
  • #32
RyanBell said:
2,700 Pounds? Holy hell. How much of a car do you have left?
Click to expand...

Already asked how he did it but no response. That is a helluva of a weight reduction.
 
Reactions: Sketchy_GT

squeak93

15 Year Member
Jun 2, 2005
2,321
398
164
Joplin, Missouri
Aug 21, 2017
#33
  • Aug 21, 2017
  • #33
As for cam selection get a hold of Todd Warren (NASVT on svt and other forums). He is one of the best at cam profiles and selection.

Also be sure you properly degree them. Don't line them up dot to dot no matter what anyone tells you.
 
B

Brady's 2003GT

Member
Oct 12, 2016
94
5
8
Aug 23, 2017
#34
  • Aug 23, 2017
  • #34
Dude seriously how do you manage to reduce 550lbs... 2700lbs with long tubes and 4.56 gears you should be retardedly quick. Please if this is true share how you did it.
 
J

Jaime Tucjer

Member
Aug 14, 2017
73
2
8
Aug 24, 2017
#35
  • Aug 24, 2017
  • #35
every thin has been removed. no front bumpers or rear, no heat and air. no carpet or sound deadner. passenger seat removed back seats deleted. so on and so on
 

Neuron

5 Year Member
Nov 6, 2016
859
192
93
Aug 24, 2017
#36
  • Aug 24, 2017
  • #36
Jaime Tucjer said:
every thin has been removed. no front bumpers or rear, no heat and air. no carpet or sound deadner. passenger seat removed back seats deleted. so on and so on
Click to expand...
No fenders , no hood, no doors, no trunk. LOL.
 
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X

XxApolloxX97

Member
Mar 7, 2017
59
9
18
Aug 24, 2017
#37
  • Aug 24, 2017
  • #37
Jaime Tucjer said:
every thin has been removed. no front bumpers or rear, no heat and air. no carpet or sound deadner. passenger seat removed back seats deleted. so on and so on
Click to expand...
If your trying to build a race car with good power and no weight try a teskid or wap block 2v with light internals.
 
J

Jaime Tucjer

Member
Aug 14, 2017
73
2
8
Aug 25, 2017
#38
  • Aug 25, 2017
  • #38
XxApolloxX97 said:
If your trying to build a race car with good power and no weight try a teskid or wap block 2v with light internals.
Click to expand...
It has a teskid block. I forgot to mention it lol.
 
J

Jaime Tucjer

Member
Aug 14, 2017
73
2
8
Aug 27, 2017
#39
  • Aug 27, 2017
  • #39
I just installed BBK 78 mm throttle body. I'm having issues with the Accelerator cable it only has 3/4 throttle. Is there a ix for this with out getting a cable.
 

Dark04GT

10 Year Member
Apr 27, 2008
758
62
59
NC
Aug 28, 2017
#40
  • Aug 28, 2017
  • #40
Jaime Tucjer said:
It has a teskid block. I forgot to mention it lol.
Click to expand...

A teksid block with forged internals...... the only thing you should be bolting on is forced induction (blower or a turbo). Everything else can wait.
 
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