4.6 Dual overhead cam engine in 64 1/2 Mustang?

Scudly

New Member
Dec 9, 2003
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Los Angeles, CA
I need some literature on a 4.6 Dual Overhead Cam engine in a 64 1/2 to a 66 Mustang if possible. The searches I did kinda showed some odd results. Apparently my dad got 3 4.6s from a Lincoln (maybe 1 or 2 from stangs as well). I'm familiar with the 5.0 swap for the most part, and I remember hearing that the 4.6 was in fact bigger.

My dad was talking about a Mustang 2 front end probably being able to support it, but I wanted to hear from you guys with your thoughts. He said there was also a possible automatic transmission from the cars, so I figured it would be an AOD. The details my dad gave me were a bit sketchy at best, so any thoughts or ideas you could give me would help a lot.
 
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It has been debated on here a lot. I'm surprised you didn't find anything. The mod motor is wider than a FE big block, so you will have to take the shock towers out of your car. It will require a lot of modification to your car to get it in.

I know that it's been done though. If you really want to do that much work, you can gain some power and fuel economy using a mod motor. Not enough to make it worth it, though. The main reason for doing the swap would be bragging rights or getting a strong reaction from people when they look under the hood.

Good luck.
 
Hack said:
The main reason for doing the swap would be bragging rights or getting a strong reaction from people when they look under the hood.

I've done it and I mostly agree with this. The power delivery is smooth and the powerband is wide, but the other 2 cars I'm building are fuel-injected GT40 5.0Ls and I think they'll be just as sweet. Heckuva lot easier to do as well.

When doing a mod motor swap, getting it physically in there is the easy part. Install a MII suspension (gets rid of the shock towers) and drop it in. The thing is that it affects literally every other system in the car. The electrical (most of all), braking, steering, fuel system, exhaust, cooling, A/C & heater, suspension, etc. all have to be extensively modified. The conversion is worlds different from a 5.0 swap.

It's cool-looking though!
http://www.reenmachine.com/misc/DOHC_start_long_web.mov
 
I'm sure reen could chime in on this with some info, but the thing I'd be most concerned about is the ECU. I don't know what most swappers do, considering the lengths you have to go to to keep the EEC-V happy, but I know I'd cheat :D

You can run the stock injection and ignition systems with a Megasquirt ECU running the Megasquirt'n'EDIS
software. Under $300, programmable and hackable out the wazoo, and all your worries with making the stupid EEC-V happy suddenly disappear. DFI & FAST users have canned their $5k aftermarket systems in favor of this thing!
HTH
-Kyle
 
LUCAFU1 said:
thats total BS

see sig.

That's not total BS...you know pre-'03 Cobra engines can't handle the boost with their weaker bottom-ends. Keep in mind you make your power off boost. 4.6 DOHCs aren't nearly as capable of making power naturally-aspirated as the pushrod SBFs. And if he wants more power than the 4.6 provides naturally-aspirated, extensive modifications will be required to achieve the power you '03-4 guys are seeing.
If you're happy with ~300 naturally-aspirated hp, I wouldn't blame you to take advantage of the free engine and go for it (like others said, it'll still cost you more than you think, though). On the other hand, if you're wanting more power out of this engine and cost plays a factor, do yourself a favor and go another route (such as a pushrod stoker).
 
Well lets see,in my case...03 Cobra engine & trans = $8K (more or less)
Front Suspension = $2k
The big brakes (F/R) $1500
Theres $11500 and thats just getting started and NO labor (I do all my work)!!!!
His engine is free but the rest will not be most likely. And I for sure dont see to may cheap 03/04 Cobras around....
 
ok going fast cost money. still BS IMO. especially when you dont need a aftermarket block to make power.
stock everything sucks so i really dont care if earlier 4.6 can handle boost.

personally i dont care for NA when its easier to make power with FI. but just to pass some info. I am qouting JIM at VT (modular engine builder) with a 9 sec fox running a CARBED mod motor.

[quote author=Jim@VTEngines link=topic=70068.msg728403#msg728403 date=1160058500]
Got a little testing done this weekend and on the cars 1st full 1/4 mile hit we set a new N/A Modular [email protected]!! Car is still set very soft both suspension and engine wise. We turned up the wick for the rest of the weekend (raised both launch and shift RPM's and leaned out the carb) but mother nature didnt co-operate sat, as it was a wash out. Sunday we lined up with the intentions of running 9.0's or better. A timing system malfunction ruined that plan as we got no data from the run. The guy Scott ran run's 8.90's consistently and Scott hung with him fender to fender. Oh well...we will hit the track again in 2 weeks in search of the 8.99/150 pass!!

Incrementals for the 9.205 pass were:

1.314 60'
3.809 330'
5.869 @ 119.02
9.205 @ 146.30

Best 330' pass was 3.756 and best 1/8th was 5.809.....car went 9.36 @ 125 as the tranny wouldn't pull 5th gear.

Here is a vid of the 9.36 pass....

www.vtengines.com/videos/scott929.WMV
__________________

[/quote]
 
BB1966 said:
Well lets see,in my case...03 Cobra engine & trans = $8K (more or less)
Front Suspension = $2k
The big brakes (F/R) $1500
Theres $11500 and thats just getting started and NO labor (I do all my work)!!!!
His engine is free but the rest will not be most likely. And I for sure dont see to may cheap 03/04 Cobras around....


if your paying $1500 for brakes i would hope that they not only stop on a dime but deposit them in the ash tray for you.

i payed $2200 i think for the heidts kit (tubular), sway bar, strut tower covers, sway bar, and upgraded wilwood brakes. payed $450 for complete rear brake conversion. That price on the engine is about right including the harness and comp. but you can buy a aluminum lincoln teksid block motor complete with tranny, harness, and ECU for $1000. then get a rebuild kit and your golden like a shower.

but it takes up space and it gets expensive. but going fast always does.:nice:
 
LUCAFU1 said:
ok going fast cost money. still BS IMO. especially when you dont need a aftermarket block to make power.
stock everything sucks so i really dont care if earlier 4.6 can handle boost.

personally i dont care for NA when its easier to make power with FI. but just to pass some info. I am qouting JIM at VT (modular engine builder) with a 9 sec fox running a CARBED mod motor.

For one thing, that's an all-out race engine...anything can be made to run fast if enough time and money are put into it. But here are a couple more things to consider...have you checked the record for naturally-aspirated Windsor strokers (I haven't, but I bet it beats the modular record), and did you see which was cheaper to build?
Don't get me wrong...I love the DOHC modulars, but wrt these old cars is just doesn't make a whole lotta sense to me when the same level of performance can be had for a much cheaper price. And since everything stock sucks in the 4.6s, and he will probably want more power than what the rotating assembly can handle...is he really getting a free engine? It's easy, and relatively inexpensive, to build a strong 302/351 from the block up.
 
whats the difference? its not like a stock 302 can run 9s NA. that would be a all out race motor as well. and what do you mean cheaper to rebuild? if we are talking just a rebuild kit then yeah a pushrod motor would be cheaper (as long as its a 302/351) but not by much. now if your talking about cheaper to build and handle power then the modular motor wins. forged cobra cranks and rods can be had for cheap and they are good to 800-900 HP. the stock modular block can handle well over 1000HP. 4v heads flows more then enough air. so which do you think is cheaper know? 302 block will spit down the middle unless its a dart/r302 block. need heads and a good cam. then a rebuild kit (forged bottom end).

they are both great motors but to say its alot more expensive is wrong IMO. if i wasnt having space issues i would run one. but i cant so ill stick with a 302.