5.0 just dies in the middle of a drive?

MSD distributors have a history of problems. Check this and other posts on the Corral.

thanks this helped me out i had an issue back when i bought a car it had it on the car died and won't run right picked the car up for $$1500 car was a clean 89 fox hatch from the second i got it back to my shop i thought it was the dizzy but changed every thing else before puting a stock one on havent had a problem since!

Pull the codes if you haven't. Because it runs better after clearing the KAM, you might have a cookie stored (the CEL need not be on to store a code, esp on intermittant problems).

Good luck.

wythors said:

MSD distributors have a history of problems. Check this and other posts on the Corral.

Click to expand...

My buddy had problems with his MSD distributor just like what is being described.
But I would do what Hissin mentioned first. Its cheap and easy.

More verses of the same song...

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see EQUUS DIGITAL FORD CODE READER (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

IMHO the Ford one is the best choice believe it not.

I'd agree. If you dont turn high RPM, the stocker about as good as anything.

I would say its something with the MSD distributor.

I had a MSD distributor fail on me 3 months ago after 2 years of use. My car doesnt see any track time or have any heavy mods, its my daily driver...
I went back to a Ford unit.

You check your TFI module?

I had a problem like this with the stocker, and it was a bad TFI module...car just shuts off no spark, the module was overheating/broken.

Mike