5.0 piece of crap
- Thread starter xile
- Start date
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
If the smoke is blue, it's burning oil - could be from a number of sources (rings, valve seals, valve guides, etc.). The first step should probably be to pull the error codes out of the computer and see what they tell you. Also, if the car still has the speed density fuel injection system, the 24# injectors are gonna cause all sorts of problems. You'd either need to convert it to mass air, and put in an maf calibrated for the 24's, or put 19's back in it. Good luck - sounds like you've bought yourself a handful there.
ok
Ok about the smoke being blue is it like really blue or like a white blue. Cause the smoke now is like white but I dont think it has much of a blue tint to it. Also could the fuel injectors be whats causing the backfire and it it being flooded or whatever. I drove it for a year without the backfiring problem or the loss of power but now its really bad.
Ok about the smoke being blue is it like really blue or like a white blue. Cause the smoke now is like white but I dont think it has much of a blue tint to it. Also could the fuel injectors be whats causing the backfire and it it being flooded or whatever. I drove it for a year without the backfiring problem or the loss of power but now its really bad.
LOL sounds like my 87 gt!!!Michael Yount said:
Most of the time the thing that causes/end up being the source of a car burning oil and puffing it is worn piston rings. I currently have this problem but only at about 5000 rpms. But like michael said, worn valve guides and the seals just happens as a result of high mileage. Also on the 24 pounders, do as Mr. yount says as well. One thing you may be overlooking which can also be a byproduct of the fuel injectors is that your car is running too rich and when you shut the car off, you have an automatic flood waiting for next startup.
I know it sounds stupid but when I first got this 87', I've spent a lot of time and still am converting things back to the way it would have come from the factory
It's amazing what past idiot owners will do to a car sometimes
Since this is your Stang, I don't know if it's your first one, I'd replace the 24lb injectors with stock 19lb injectors. The white smoke is most likely the result of the oversized injectors. You should be able to get a set of new 19lb injectors for around $200+/-. If you don't have a repair manual, get one. It sounds like you'll need it.
iwashmycar
20+ Year Stangneter 
Def too much fuel, because when you slam the pedal to the floor when starting it actually stops the flow, so then it starts.
88stangmangt
Active Member
strtracer442 said:
This is some of the best advice you’ll get. Do the simple tests first to get an idea of the basic condition of the car’s engine.
You need to take a systematic approach to fixing you car’s problems: doing so will save lots of money and time. Throwing parts at a problem just makes you poor and tired. Buy a Chilton or Haynes shop manual, or better still, both manuals. Read up on what you need to do, get the parts & tools you need, and then just do it. The Chilton manual is better for emissions & tune up, but the Haynes is better for other things.
First, fix the things that you can see are obviously wrong, like the 24 pound injectors. Do a complete tune up with plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel & air filters. Wash the engine down with some mineral spirits or kerosene and then drive it & look for leaks. Fix the leaks and change the oil, wash it down again if it needs it.
Once you have changed the oil & done the simple tests & tune up, do some of the more complex testing. The tune up will fix some of the performance problems and shrink the symptom list down to a more easily managed size.
Don’t let the engine control computer intimidate you. It can tell you what is wrong with the engine if you take time to understand it. If you take some time to read the Chilton manual or better still, Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3, you be fixing you problems quickly and easily the first time.
The computer’s ability to track malfunctions will be a big help, but do the tune up & fix up stuff first. They will clear some of the diagnostic fault codes the computer will store.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
First thing i would do is go in the classified and buy some 19# injectors. Install those, reset the computer and drive it and see if a lot of the rich problems go away. Then take it from there
Ranchero5.0
The Voice of Reason
Dude, you need a friend who knows stangs to get you going in the right direction. Where are you located?
Jamie
Jamie
ALMOSTFINISHED
Member
If you are still running speed density and have bigger injectors it will cause it to run way to rich, if the problem has gotten progressivly worse but used to not do it when you got deeper into the throttle, to me it sounds like your map sensor has gone on you. the map sensor stands for manifold absolute pressure, you have no vacuum when you go full throttle which is when it seems to run better, i think it is that. Just my opinion...good luck
Nick
Nick
Seems like there's a person here that agrees with me on the injectors.Mustang5L5 said:
Xile,
Before you go spending money on tune-up parts, test what parts you can test to determine if they're faulty. Without knowing what you're willing to spend on some of the replacement parts, it's hard to tell you what to replace.
If are planning on keeping this car for many years, get the Ford repair manuals from www.helm.com. They can supply you with the correct information, instead of part of the information. I have the thick Chilton manual, and have found it to be missing or misinforming on some procedures. The factory manuals should help you with the tests you may need to perform.
Making sure everything is securely connected underhood is the cheapest thing you can do to find or fix a problem. Be sure all of the vacuum lines are in tact, because the plastic lines that Ford used tend to get brittle and crack. If an electrical connector is not securely connected to a sensor, a false reading could be sent to the computer. A plug wire that's just sitting on the plug will not let that plug fire the way it should.
When you start buying parts, you may not want to put someone's used parts on your car without checking them out. With fuel injectors, they will get gummed up where the fuel runs over time. A rebuilt and flow tested set of used injectors may be cheaper than a new set, and would be more sound than just a used set. This goes for intake manifolds, heads, etc. If you end up replacing any sensors on your car, go with new Ford parts.
Hope this helps you out. Since you this is your first Stang, your first post was missing a list of what was or wasn't modified. That information can help to determine the best course of action.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
As several have mentioned before, here's the place to start -- "The first step should probably be to pull the error codes out of the computer and see what they tell you."
Do that before you do anything else - follow jrichker's links above, or take it to an AutoZone and they'll usually pull them for you for free.
Do that before you do anything else - follow jrichker's links above, or take it to an AutoZone and they'll usually pull them for you for free.
cjman15
Banned
Similar threads
