Understood John and do appreciate all your help on this.
Hi,
Happy to help, however possible!
Gain any ground as of yet?
Noticed an A/C compressor in the pic’s posted. If there, It’s operable I’m assuming. . What is the condition of the vanes on the Condenser in front of the Radiator?(Pic’s)..
In retrospect, I’d wanted to mention a new mill was certainly your best choice. Also narrows troubleshooting.
If not newer & defect free, there’s a possibility the Condenser may be contributing to the restricted airflow when driving at speed, just wonderin’...
Run the same Condenser previously, last motor?
Realize you are both going towards diagnostic efforts yourself, respecting that, just wanted to mention you’re more than welcome to bounce a question if desired.
Running Points? Setting Dwell is important. Mech. Advance or Vacuum, or both? I TIG mechanical advances, run vacuum.. or only run Mech advance & eliminate vacuum.. easier to track. Pulling timing may drop HP, but helps in diagnostics.
Plugging Vac into the timed port on the Holley, Carter AFB’s (Edelbrock Carbs (copied them), you already know that) More for racing, helps in all scenarios.
The flex fans (solidly mounted) flatten out during higher speeds, helps higher speed air cool things when run with a shroud. Motor seems to be more sensitive than many. That radiator is more that adequate at keeping things cool.
Compressor..
Condenser..sandwiched in the middle(?)
The high CFM Fans I was speaking of with shrouding to direct airflow are relatively inexpensive, (Mishimoto). Runs (2) smaller 2,300 CFM fans (each) focusing cooling efforts on the entire surface area of the Radiator, driving or sitting, also helping equivalent flow at speed.
Your full spark timing advance timing ‘all in’ by 3,000RPM, set more conservative
by pulling timing helps narrow down things.
They make the below for near all year Pony’s, and reasonably priced, high quality
Mishimoto fan/shroud, pic’s below...
Cam Timing was set did to dot? If you have a vacuum gauge, Dwell meter, checking plug electrodes for mixture/coolant being burned, etc, all the nostalgic methods works as always did- perfectly.
Mishimoto pictured below with the Radiator and shroud. Bolt up is dead on, can use the OE threaded clips on it.
Running an auto Trans? If it’s running hot, it may increase cooling vulnerabilities.
Although I don’t really miss running the heat at full blast as temp gauges swing into the red, increasing at stoplights on a 110 degree day, sweating bullets, approaching heatstroke by the time temp levels & backs off on the gauge reflects importance on how the importance of the heater core’s role helps keep things cool. Can jump heater hoses to bypass, if
I do wish you both the best luck in nailing this, just my .02.
Please Post what you find (when possible). it may help another in the same scenario.
Running a spring on the internal coolant lines to radiator helps the effort against collapse, restrictions. No underdrive pulleys-right?
Wish you and your family safe, (ignoring our President seems to be the safest way to do that), enjoy your project!
Best of luck!
-John