67 Galaxie w/ 91 5.0 EFI Swap not Running Right

bagd67galaxie

New Member
Mar 31, 2006
11
0
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Chatt.,TN
Here is the low down. I have a 1967 Galaxie Fastback with a 1991 Mustang EFI 5.0 swap. I have the motor in and all electrical connected to best of my knowledge. The car has cranked 3 times ,, this last time it ran for about a minute really fat and acted like the timing was retarded. I checked timing and fuel to this point and seems to be correct.

The motor is a stock bottom end 1987 and topend is B Cam ported and polished stock heads and gasket matched upper and lower also has 1.7 rollers. for the most part stock.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated ASAP ,,I have to have the car running by the 6th of April for a car show..

Thanks again,

Jason
 
When I was a teenager a friends older brother had a 67 Galaxie fastback.
It came with a 390 auto then he dropped in a 428 with a 4spd trans.
That boat would burn rubber forever.:D
 
Im not running headers at the moment. I have tried several different ones.. I was told that the ones for a 67 comet work,, but the hook ones do not the tube design is too low for my car.. I have air ride on it and when it lays out it smash the headers... I did find some from headman that are a shorty style that apear to be the ticket...

I thought about the code reader,, not sure where the diagnostic plug is.. im tryn to find this stuff off of tiny wiring diagrams that really suck..

thanks for the help..

One guy mentioned the tps sensor that it had to be calibrated to read a volt or less. that seemed to help ,, the car is at least hitting once in a blue moon, in fact it cranked again but was still really fat...
 
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

Here's what the diagnostic connector looks like... The stock location is near the back side of the driver's wheel well.

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finally got the thing running.. there were 2 wires under the hood that needed to be connected off plug 31 to make it crank.. I bought the scanner jrichker and it did pull up the egr code, fixed that and the pressure regulator was busted and now it cranks well. Thanks for the help! Now just gotta set the tranny pressure and drive it hopefully.