67 mustang radiator

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tlindsey18

New Member

Apr 30, 2010

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Midwest City Oklahoma

Jun 13, 2010

#1

• Jun 13, 2010

• #1

OK, I need some advise. I have a 67 Mustang with a 1970 351c and I am currently running a 3 row stock 289 radiator with shroud, flex fan and water wetter. The car still runs between 217 and 220, that seems hot to me, is it? I'm not sure why this radiator will not cool this motor. I took it out last week and had it cleaned at the radiator shop, they told me it was 30% blocked, thought for sure that was my problem, put it back in and nothing changed! This is how it has been since I bought the car, so I do not know if it always ran this temp or not, it was in rough shape when I got it.

 

Az Pete

10 Year Member

Mar 30, 2005

711

18

49

Panama City, Fl.

Jun 13, 2010

#2

• Jun 13, 2010

• #2

Do you know what thermostat is in the car? Should have a 180-195. Timing and carb settings can also effect temps. How about the hoses? Are they collapsing when hot, restricting the flow?

 

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tlindsey18

New Member

Apr 30, 2010

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Midwest City Oklahoma

Jun 14, 2010

#3

• Jun 14, 2010

• #3

Thermostat is a 192 and the lower hose is steel a braided flex hose. last week I did a vacuum set on the timing and carb. Vacuum is at 17lbs. Runs very smooth and responsive, not indication anything is off.

 

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pyroman

Founding Member

Jul 28, 2002

480

3

18

Ennis, Texas

Jun 14, 2010

#4

• Jun 14, 2010

• #4

I had a 195 T-stat in my 67 with the stock radiator. It was running hotter than I felt comfortable with, even with a taurus electric fan. (I'm not sure of the exact temperature but it was always very close to pegging the stock temperature gauge.) I swapped out the 195 for a 180 and saw improvement. Temperature gauge doesn't exceed the halfway point even during the Texas summer. Admittedly I haven't driven it more than 15 miles at a time. I never drove it over 15 miles at time with the 195 either.

 

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tlindsey18

New Member

Apr 30, 2010

34

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Midwest City Oklahoma

Jun 14, 2010

#5

• Jun 14, 2010

• #5

I have read on these forums that the t-stat has no effect on temp, just that it opens sooner/later.?????

 

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tlindsey18

New Member

Apr 30, 2010

34

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Midwest City Oklahoma

Jun 15, 2010

#6

• Jun 15, 2010

• #6

I noticed yeaterday that I have NO movment of fluid in my radiator.....I was going to burp it and the temp got all the way to 210 and never indicated flow through the radiator???? I changed the stat twice and ALL hoses including heater hoses are getting hot, is that due to the steam from the water and maybe the pump is not working? Or can water move through the hoses slightly with the pump not working? Bafffffled I also checked the stat and it is working properly..

 

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2+2GT

10 Year Member

Apr 25, 2009

3,333

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79

Southeastern Pennsylvania

Jun 15, 2010

#7

• Jun 15, 2010

• #7

The 351C requires a unique thermostat. A non-351C thermostat will not operate the special bypass-block properly, and the engine will overheat. Even if you have the right thermostat, if the brass seal ring below it is missing, it will overheat. With both in place operating properly, you should be in good shape, the 351C had a special arrangement that sealed the bypass when the thermostat was open, to increase cooling efficiency.

 

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tlindsey18

New Member

Apr 30, 2010

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Midwest City Oklahoma

Jun 16, 2010

#8

• Jun 16, 2010

• #8

This picture make it appear that the bypass ring is FLAT.....I have a brass dish looking ring in there but I am wondering if there should be a flat ring that lays on top of that???? I have wondered if i have all the componants to that bypass in place, but I cannot find a good picture or parts break down to show me??????

 

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pyroman

Founding Member

Jul 28, 2002

480

3

18

Ennis, Texas

Jun 16, 2010

#9

• Jun 16, 2010

• #9

Somehow I missed the fact that your car is 351C. Mine is a 302 so my advice isn't probably very sound. I'm going to bow out of this since my knowledge of 351C is pretty abysmal.

 

2

2+2GT

10 Year Member

Apr 25, 2009

3,333

10

79

Southeastern Pennsylvania

Jun 16, 2010

#10

• Jun 16, 2010

• #10

tlindsey18 said:

This picture make it appear that the bypass ring is FLAT.....I have a brass dish looking ring in there but I am wondering if there should be a flat ring that lays on top of that???? I have wondered if i have all the componants to that bypass in place, but I cannot find a good picture or parts break down to show me??????

Click to expand...

No, it's not flat.



The 351C thermostat has this cup in the center, to seal the hole in the brass plate.

 

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tlindsey18

New Member

Apr 30, 2010

34

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Midwest City Oklahoma

Jun 17, 2010

#11

• Jun 17, 2010

• #11

What is the last picture of????

 

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67cleveland

New Member

Apr 5, 2009

1

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0

Salem, OR

Jun 26, 2010

#12

• Jun 26, 2010

• #12

I have a '67 w/ a 351c also. I'm running a Summit 25.75" x 19" aluminum radiator w/ a shroud, 160deg stat, and Water Wetter / water only....temp stays at 160, 190 max if sitting in traffic.

 

2

2+2GT

10 Year Member

Apr 25, 2009

3,333

10

79

Southeastern Pennsylvania

Jun 26, 2010

#13

• Jun 26, 2010

• #13

tlindsey18 said:

What is the last picture of????

Click to expand...

Same thing as the first photo, but with no engine wrapped around it.

 

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tlindsey18

New Member

Apr 30, 2010

34

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0

Midwest City Oklahoma

Jun 28, 2010

#14

• Jun 28, 2010

• #14

Problem resolved....embarrassed to admitt this but i guess I should for others with similar issues. It was a faulty after market gauge all along, temp runs around 185 to 195 in traffic. The needle sat on 130 instead of bottomed out on 100 and I never thought anything about it until I got to looking at new gauges......LIGHT BULB!!!

 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter

Dec 3, 2002

3,749

37

109

LA, CA

Jun 28, 2010

#15

• Jun 28, 2010

• #15

Just a comment on the radiator you are using. It is a 289 3 row. You should really be running a 4 row copper IMO. Now being where you live it may not get all that hot you might be fine with a 3 row. In LA during the summer in traffic, you would be overheating.

 

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tlindsey18

New Member

Apr 30, 2010

34

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Midwest City Oklahoma

Jun 29, 2010

#16

• Jun 29, 2010

• #16

Well it does get into the upper 90s and touches 100 on occassion. It's been in the upper 90s lately with extreme humidity and seems fine....maybe I'm lucky. i would like to go with aluminum but figured if this works, I'll just use it for now.