67 Steering column removal help

Header does have to come off man. And the pan if it's not stock(7-8 qrt). The motor has to be jacked up front one side. And if you have a z-bar, even more fun. Crossmember, everything. It'll make it a little easier, not much though. Once you start to get it out, you'll see how much room you really need to get it out.
The column just slides off. It will need a little convincing though.
 
It's a Randall's Rack. So far everything is lining up properly without much fuss. The only pain is having to deal with shortening the steering shaft.

The shaft is now at a machine shop. It will be done first thing Monday.

Here's a link to a very good install how-to: http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0612_ford_mustang_power_steering/index.html

I got most of the info from there. Plus Randall ships a copy of the came story alongside his own instruction sheet.
 
Another thing I would say: instead of removing the headers or trying to jack the motor out of the way to shimmy the steering box out, take a cutting wheel to the base of the steering shaft. Wizz! You're gonna need to cut some of it off anyway to fit the new coupling, so you can gore it up all you want.
 
Thanks for the link.

So if you go to a R&P setup with a long style shaft does that eliminate the need for a ’68 + collapsible steering column for safety reasons?

Correct me if I am wrong but my thinking is that with U-joints connecting to the r&p they will break in a front-end collision unlike a solid shaft that was one part of the steering box.
 
Well I don't spend much time worrying about accidents in general. I agree that it would be somewhat safer if the steering column does not end up in my sternum. But since I don't have shoulder belts, there are many more horrible things that could happen to me in a collision.

In the end, you can keep your original solid steering tube. Once it gets cut shorter and is supported by the supplied firewall-mounted bearing, things will be great.

I can't wait to report on how the car handles after the graft and the rebuilt on the front end with urethane bushings, new ball joints and so on...



Thanks for the link.

So if you go to a R&P setup with a long style shaft does that eliminate the need for a ’68 + collapsible steering column for safety reasons?

Correct me if I am wrong but my thinking is that with U-joints connecting to the r&p they will break in a front-end collision unlike a solid shaft that was one part of the steering box.