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67 Steering column removal help

  • Thread starter Thread starter CanyonCarver515
  • Start date Start date Nov 15, 2007

CanyonCarver515

Member
Jun 27, 2007
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El Lay
Nov 15, 2007
#1
  • Nov 15, 2007
  • #1
I have a solid column that's attached to the steering box.
How do you disconnect the column from the box while it's still in the car? This would prevent having to remove the header on that side.
 
1

10secgoal

Active Member
Dec 1, 2003
2,801
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49
San Diego
Nov 15, 2007
#2
  • Nov 15, 2007
  • #2
Header does have to come off man. And the pan if it's not stock(7-8 qrt). The motor has to be jacked up front one side. And if you have a z-bar, even more fun. Crossmember, everything. It'll make it a little easier, not much though. Once you start to get it out, you'll see how much room you really need to get it out.
The column just slides off. It will need a little convincing though.
 

CanyonCarver515

Member
Jun 27, 2007
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El Lay
Nov 16, 2007
#3
  • Nov 16, 2007
  • #3
OK, we just sawed off the shaft at the box. Since we're putting a new R&P and the shaft needs to be shortened and machined, it was easier that way. Nothing had to be removed.
 

Pbum5

Member
Oct 27, 2004
515
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Minneapolis, MN
Nov 16, 2007
#4
  • Nov 16, 2007
  • #4
Canyon

What brand R&P did you go with?

Can you do a write up with some pictures on your R&P install on a 67 with a long shaft?
I might have to go through the same thing.

Thanks.
 

CanyonCarver515

Member
Jun 27, 2007
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El Lay
Nov 16, 2007
#5
  • Nov 16, 2007
  • #5
It's a Randall's Rack. So far everything is lining up properly without much fuss. The only pain is having to deal with shortening the steering shaft.

The shaft is now at a machine shop. It will be done first thing Monday.

Here's a link to a very good install how-to: http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0612_ford_mustang_power_steering/index.html

I got most of the info from there. Plus Randall ships a copy of the came story alongside his own instruction sheet.
 

CanyonCarver515

Member
Jun 27, 2007
122
0
17
El Lay
Nov 16, 2007
#6
  • Nov 16, 2007
  • #6
Another thing I would say: instead of removing the headers or trying to jack the motor out of the way to shimmy the steering box out, take a cutting wheel to the base of the steering shaft. Wizz! You're gonna need to cut some of it off anyway to fit the new coupling, so you can gore it up all you want.
 

Pbum5

Member
Oct 27, 2004
515
0
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Minneapolis, MN
Nov 16, 2007
#7
  • Nov 16, 2007
  • #7
Thanks for the link.

So if you go to a R&P setup with a long style shaft does that eliminate the need for a ’68 + collapsible steering column for safety reasons?

Correct me if I am wrong but my thinking is that with U-joints connecting to the r&p they will break in a front-end collision unlike a solid shaft that was one part of the steering box.
 
1

10secgoal

Active Member
Dec 1, 2003
2,801
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49
San Diego
Nov 16, 2007
#8
  • Nov 16, 2007
  • #8
Awww, no fair dude. You cheated. You didn't mention you were doing a R&P.
 

CanyonCarver515

Member
Jun 27, 2007
122
0
17
El Lay
Nov 16, 2007
#9
  • Nov 16, 2007
  • #9
Well I don't spend much time worrying about accidents in general. I agree that it would be somewhat safer if the steering column does not end up in my sternum. But since I don't have shoulder belts, there are many more horrible things that could happen to me in a collision.

In the end, you can keep your original solid steering tube. Once it gets cut shorter and is supported by the supplied firewall-mounted bearing, things will be great.

I can't wait to report on how the car handles after the graft and the rebuilt on the front end with urethane bushings, new ball joints and so on...



Pbum5 said:
Thanks for the link.

So if you go to a R&P setup with a long style shaft does that eliminate the need for a ’68 + collapsible steering column for safety reasons?

Correct me if I am wrong but my thinking is that with U-joints connecting to the r&p they will break in a front-end collision unlike a solid shaft that was one part of the steering box.
Click to expand...
 
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