Hi everyone,
I could use some advice on whether I can pull off an Arning (Shelby) drop on my 68 coupe. When I bought the car it had a 315W in it, and it's had work done on shock towers already. It looks like a previous owner had welded on a new pair of of lower control arm/motor mount brackets among other things. The brackets look like they're the original 68 shape and size just based on images from the major supplier part catalogs, but I'm not 100% sure.
I'm considering doing a 1" drop, but the shape of the bracket makes me wonder if I'm able to pull it off. The brackets narrow significantly just below the 2 upper control arm bolt holes. If I use a standard template to drop the UCAs by an inch, the front of the new bolt holes would be right on if not overlapping the bracket. The rear bolt hole would (I from what I can tell) hang mostly off of the bracket's edge.
I could use advice as to whether a Shelby drop can be done with the brackets as they are. It not, is it feasible to weld on enough of an extension or patch to make the drop work?
For reference, I've attached a couple photos of my inner passenger side shock tower. One photo has highlights showing the rough position where the new holes would be drilled.
I've also scoured the de-facto Stangnet source on shock, but it hasn't quite answered the question for me towers https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/grafting-67-68-shock-towers-to-65-66-mustang.881929/
Thanks again for the help!
I could use some advice on whether I can pull off an Arning (Shelby) drop on my 68 coupe. When I bought the car it had a 315W in it, and it's had work done on shock towers already. It looks like a previous owner had welded on a new pair of of lower control arm/motor mount brackets among other things. The brackets look like they're the original 68 shape and size just based on images from the major supplier part catalogs, but I'm not 100% sure.
I'm considering doing a 1" drop, but the shape of the bracket makes me wonder if I'm able to pull it off. The brackets narrow significantly just below the 2 upper control arm bolt holes. If I use a standard template to drop the UCAs by an inch, the front of the new bolt holes would be right on if not overlapping the bracket. The rear bolt hole would (I from what I can tell) hang mostly off of the bracket's edge.
I could use advice as to whether a Shelby drop can be done with the brackets as they are. It not, is it feasible to weld on enough of an extension or patch to make the drop work?
For reference, I've attached a couple photos of my inner passenger side shock tower. One photo has highlights showing the rough position where the new holes would be drilled.
I've also scoured the de-facto Stangnet source on shock, but it hasn't quite answered the question for me towers https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/grafting-67-68-shock-towers-to-65-66-mustang.881929/
Thanks again for the help!