'68 Stock 2V carb questions

[blandq]

Afternoon. Working on a friend's son's 68 289 2V, no engine mods, bone stock. Previous owner put on a new @ barrel, brand spanky new BUT...there's always a but there are some issues I need help resolving as I am a restomod guy and have spent zero time on '68 @V 289s.

2 items:
(1) The choke is manual and in looking in the Ford manual for a '68 2V 289. When we started the car the choke never opened. Opening up the choke, it is clear that the guts are not the same as the book and in fact it will not function properly. All that is in the carb-side housing is a hole ....I see nothing that would cause the tension on the spring to lessen, etc. and open the choke.
We defeated this to work on the car...PIA

(2) There is no De-accel dash pot on this carb. I noted a couple times in testing, a rev of the engine and a quick throttle release would end up killing the engine. Again having no experience on these, nor could I find any info on the dash-pot as a must, or an aftermarket re-do, etc.....so, I assume it's a must have.

Can anyone show me some pics of the correct, bone stock 1968 Mustang @V carb? AND where can I get parts of the type I need?

 

[D.Hearne]

The hole in the choke was for a heat tube routed to the passenger side exhaust manifold. My advice is to completely remove the choke. If you still want a choke fidn a cable operated manual unit. The dash pot isn't a requirement, if the engine's in tune and the carb is set correctly. Also helps to have a good electronic ignition on it to where you can tune the carb to where the throttle butterflys don't slam shut. Being in Houston, you should need no choke on it. This is the first thing I remove from all my carbs.

 

[blandq]

Morning D;

Thanks for the info. (By the way it was 33 degrees night before last! IT may be Northern Cancun down here in the Summer but we do get cold enough to use a choke. On mine I use electronic and simply adjust it out of the way for most of the year.

So, on the 2V, we have the heat tube but the inside of the housing has no operation parts...just the spring. It looks like a choke out of a different 2V motor looking at the manual. I like the idea of a manual choke. Keep in mind this is for my buddies son, high school, gonna be early mornings at least 5 days a week.

Can you explain the dash-pot function?

-Q

 

[D.Hearne]

My Ranger's 5.0 starts & idles at 25*F with no choke. Helps that it's got an F4TE roller EFI cam pulling a vacuum on the Holley 570 too. I might be wrong, but the tube from exhaust heated the spring to operate the choke. The dash pot was simply a cushion to keep the throttle from slammin shut with the low idle & timing settings recommended by the factory. I haven't used one on any carb for thirty+ years. But all my carbs are Holleys. Never had much luck with Autolite carbs.

 

[blandq]

Agreed. I use Edelbrock, great bang for the buck and I've had good luck with them. I had assumed the dash-pot was intended to live up to it's name (anti-decel, etc.) Never having experience with the Autolite carbs it sounds like the need for the dash-pot has to do with compensation for a poor idle circuit. It'd be a guess but in a worst case decel vacuum would be through the roof...you'd think that would be an easy condition to meter until vacuum return to some static level...maybe a little compensation on idle rpm (^), fuel and timing will miotigate the need for the dash-pot

 

[Mil1ion]

2 items:
(1) The choke is manual and in looking in the Ford manual for a '68 2V 289. When we started the car the choke never opened. Opening up the choke, it is clear that the guts are not the same as the book and in fact it will not function properly

It takes time for the choke to pull the butterfly back to normal operating position. sometimes 15 minutes.
Over time, the bi-metal coil fatigues from heat so the choke housing may need replacing

How did the fast idle circuit work for you ?



1958 Ford - group 2

Ford 2100D Carburetor Manual - The Old Car Manual Project