Paint and Body '69 Coupe Door Latch/Strike Issues

I have a 1969 coupe and I'm having trouble getting the driver side door to close completely.
See pic:
20200401_081548 (2).webp

I have installed a new latch and adjusted the strike as far as it will go in. I even cut away 1/8" of jamb where the screw holes are so the strike would move in further.
Could it be the new latch it was $50+-, I've seen other strikes on Scott Drake or AMD for $79+- is there a difference or is it just markup?
You can push the door in to make it flush but it pops back out.
 
I cant answer your question, but I can help you get better help. If you still have the old striker take a picture of it. Take some pictures of the door latch mechanism and the striker as they are on the car. Take some pictures of the other door as well. Post them in this thread. All these pictures will help others with knowledge of this issue to determine what your issue is. I hope this helps and good luck! Post a link to the striker you purchased if you can.
 
Put small film of some black grease on all the usual places the door can meet up with the jamb....moldings, latches, stops....and close the door slowly and apply gentle pressure. Open it back up and see where it's meeting the jamb first by looking for grease prints. That's what is probably pushing it back out. As long as the door is aligned properly on the hinges, and the strike plate is catching, then there is an obstruction. It's often the rubber moldings that are slipping out of the bottom slot, or just going bad. Hate to say this but if the door weep holes are clogged and rust is developing at the bottom of the door this will push out the molding too.