700-800hp

[Shaolin Crane]

now before you guys start at me, i dont plan on doing this with a stock block or tranny, im not worried about how much of the rest of the car i have to upgrade, so my question is this i started off by buying myself, a Dart Iron Eagle Block, Probe Dominator 347 Stroker, Gear Drive Set, 28oz Billet Flywheel and 28oz SFI balancer, what main components would i need to achieve my goal of the 800hp range, heads, turbos, centrifugal blower, twin screw etc NO juice though (please excuse fuel pump and obvious stuff like that, any info you guys have would be great.

 

[ID89GT]

I'd go with a 408 rather than the 347

 

[Shaolin Crane]

thats not what i asked, i told you what i had and what additions i would need

 

[ID89GT]

thats not what i asked, i told you what i had and what additions i would need

Aw my bad I misread it, I didn't see you already bought that stuff lol

 

[Shaolin Crane]

yeah if i didnt get such a good deal on that stuff i probably would have a 408 or 427

 

[bubba-dough]

I'd go with a 408 rather than the 347

Personally I would go aftermarket block & 347 or bigger all day everyday before I would do a 351 based engine.

I hope this helps give you an idea ,
The black car in the link in my sig ended up putting down 556 rwhp on a SuperFlow dyno. It has a 347, AFR 205 heads, Spyder Intake, Procharger D-1 (12lb pulley but is usually around 9lb since the heads and intake swap), custom cam, maxed out 42 lb matched injectors, maxed 90 mm Pro-M, 75 mm BBK tb, "conservative" Custom SCT dyno tune because of the injectors and MAF. In the next couple of months its getting a bigger tb, MAF, injectors, and pulley.

 

[90lxcoupe]

a good set of CNC ported heads 205cc or larger, and a 76mm garret turbo should get you there no problem. you could also do it with a F1r procharger. I know you already have the gear drive, but i would ditch that in favor of a billet timing chain

 

[S&B]

ditch the gear drive unless its drag only, my car puts down what you want

331 dart
VIc JR heads
Vic JR intake
Vortech YSI Blower
72 lb injecotors
Fast system
TKO 600
Dual disc clutch
Spool in the rear
Well pump in the trunk with return system
15-18k or so will get you there.

You dont need my combo but what I listed is needed to get you up in that power range its pretty much never going to be a driver for you, its just not realistic trust me.

if you want power for cheap do a 408 setup with a turbo

 

[Evilfox]

Do you want this to run on pump gas? If so what octane.

 

[faststang90]

turbo

i would do a t 76 turbo kit. i would not do the gear drive kit. i had a billet crank and it was 0 balance y did u get a 28 balance. im about to get a 427R from bennett and i called and asked what it was balanced to and they said all there motors are 0. i would stay with a auto tranny with a turbo

 

[FastDriver]

28oz balance is fine for 7-7500rpm.

I'm not going to tell you what you should do, but here's what I did: 762 rwhp and it was still climbing at 6200 rpm or so. That was 14-15 psi with a Dart 331, AFR205 heads, TFS-R with box upper, Ed Curtis Custom cam, GT42-76R turbo, and a TKO tranny. For fuel and engine management, I went with a Weldon 2025A, Trick Flow 120lbs injectors, Speed density setup with the BS3 to tune it. Fuel lines are custom. A Behind bars race cars sumped tank, and TF fuel rails.

Good luck,

Chris

 

[Shaolin Crane]

sorry guys, this is not a drag car this is more of an all out road race car (still gets street driven kinda) only reason i picked a gear drive is what was recomended to me when road racing and some drifting, but im not against going a different way on that its not too much money lost, but the other stuff is staying

 

[S&B]

if your road racing or drifting, I would go with a Kenne bell blower, 15-18 PSI you will get all the power you need in the 2-5k range, with a vortech or turbo your power will come on later in the power curve.
IF your going to road race or drift a properly sumped tank is a MUST the one that fast driver has from Noodles at Behind Bars race cars is perfect. You are also going to need to invest some serious money in the cooling system of the car, drifting is very hard on cooling b/c the air flow is not to great. You have yourself a good project there though. Dont even try to run this with your stock EFI system, it will be way more hassel than its worth.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

thankyou, im well aware of what i have to do with the car to help it in drifting, ive been drifitng for many years, i just wanted to know what main components i should have to achieve those levels, everything else is kinda mandatory

 

[FastDriver]

Didn't read this again till now.

If you're on the track and with a turbo, I think you'll want the smallest turbo that will let you achieve your power goal. Getting into boost early will make the car easier to control. Master Power T70 is a cheap turbo that is good up to about 700 rwhp, and should spool relatively quickly. I'd be looking somewhere in that range. GT35, MP-T70, or a 67ish mm turbo. If you're going twin, I'd be looking at Twin 57s or so. If you go too big on the turbo, you'll get into boost late in the rpm band which makes it difficult to keep the engine under boost...

Honestly, I think a turbo is a bad application for it on the track. Though it could be done n/a, I wouldn't try that with a 28oz imbalance because you'd have to rev to 8000+ rpm. So that leaves one choice: I'd be looking for a something with a more predictable "linear" throttle and a blower fits that bill. Unfortunately, I'm not very smart on specific blowers for your application especially with centrifugals...

Heads? A 347 that's kept to less than 7500 rpm would do fine with a set of AFR185s, or TFS TWs. AFR 205s would be ok, too but might be better suited on a higher revving car.

Intake? choose what you want to do lower RPM and high boost, or higher RPM and lower boost. Then pick the intake accordingly. A 7000+ rpm motor should be using short runners (TFS-R w/ box, Vic 5.0., etc..), a 6500 and lower rpm motor should be using long runners (RPM II, TFS Track heat, Systemax II).

60-72 lbs injectors would be ideal depending on the exact amount of power and the type of induction used.

If you stay in the lower RPMs 7k and below, you should be able to go with a hydro cam.

Either way, good luck.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

oh sorry i forgot to mention i have a mechanical cam and lifters setup already, and i think ive settled on a kenne belle, i dont think a small turbo is gonna help me achieve the power levels i want but we'll get to that once i actually have the car togethor

 

[millhouse]

oh sorry i forgot to mention i have a mechanical cam and lifters setup already, and i think ive settled on a kenne belle, i dont think a small turbo is gonna help me achieve the power levels i want but we'll get to that once i actually have the car togethor

That's why God gifted us with twins!

Seriously though, a couple of properly sized twins will reduce lag while maintaining top end power. Really, it gives you the best of both worlds....and it won't superheat the intake charge the way a Kenne Belle will! A large FMIC will take care of most residual heat...which is a killer with any open track car. If the tracks allow it, you can even rig up an intercooler sprayer to keep the air to air cooler....extra cool!

Of course, that's what I'd do....but perhaps I'm a bit biased.

 

[nunly94gt]

Man....Theres a guy down here running a 1200hp 331. Here is the link to his dyno before the bigger turbo, computer controller, and fuel related stuff.

http://http://www.jmschip.com/rides.php?CID=11

This thing is about the sickest car I have ever seen!!!!!! Runs 5.24 in the 1/8th down here.

 

[95Vert383AOD]

You said you want a 700-800hp car to do road racing in??? Thats kind of streetable??? In what I consider a small displacement that would require a radical cam??? I'm thinking of a good anology here but my brains in a morning funk.

I dunno Sounds like you want to take an Alcohol funny car road racing. Or like you want to take a jet engine to cruise the narrow streets of Italy.

But seriously....smaller displacements need to rev. higher and have more radical cams and higher octane then bigger engines to make the same power. If you weren't road racing and didnt care about the extra weight i would say sell your crap and just buy a 514-557ci stroked 460. That would have you breaking the 700hp threshold all motor pump gas. Trickflow even makes a EFI intake for this motor...then you grab a computer/ harness from a 90's 460 equipped Ambulance or truck. With aluminum heads i don't know how heavy the 460 block would be. But hey i like building cars that i can run pump gas on and achieve my power levels...

700-800hp car road racing on that small of CI prob. running CAM 2 to do it....EEH = Bull in china room that only eats golden bails of hay that cost $8 a straw. Sounds like you want to road race with a track car. The most power doesn't win road races. It's a balance of power and control. Power without control is worthless...


But if you must.....I would build the crap out of your chassis, suspension, roll bars, Sub frames...wait you said road race huh?? Maybe some custom ladder bars, Reinforce the strut towers F & R, Custom Built Torque boxes, Possibly IRS if you want good road racing manners. (straight axles with 700-800hp don't like corners).

Personally i don't think you need much more than 450-500RWHP road racing...Any more than that and you'll be better off racing in a straight line. Unless your 700-800hp mustang was on some kind of monorail like those high speed trains in Japan. J/K

But bottom line ....lots and lots of chassis modifications!!!

Sorry about my rambling....and now my coffee high is gone

 

[Shaolin Crane]

You said you want a 700-800hp car to do road racing in??? Thats kind of streetable??? In what I consider a small displacement that would require a radical cam??? I'm thinking of a good anology here but my brains in a morning funk.

I dunno Sounds like you want to take an Alcohol funny car road racing. Or like you want to take a jet engine to cruise the narrow streets of Italy.

But seriously....smaller displacements need to rev. higher and have more radical cams and higher octane then bigger engines to make the same power. If you weren't road racing and didnt care about the extra weight i would say sell your crap and just buy a 514-557ci stroked 460. That would have you breaking the 700hp threshold all motor pump gas. Trickflow even makes a EFI intake for this motor...then you grab a computer/ harness from a 90's 460 equipped Ambulance or truck. With aluminum heads i don't know how heavy the 460 block would be. But hey i like building cars that i can run pump gas on and achieve my power levels...

700-800hp car road racing on that small of CI prob. running CAM 2 to do it....EEH = Bull in china room that only eats golden bails of hay that cost $8 a straw. Sounds like you want to road race with a track car. The most power doesn't win road races. It's a balance of power and control. Power without control is worthless...


But if you must.....I would build the crap out of your chassis, suspension, roll bars, Sub frames...wait you said road race huh?? Maybe some custom ladder bars, Reinforce the strut towers F & R, Custom Built Torque boxes, Possibly IRS if you want good road racing manners. (straight axles with 700-800hp don't like corners).

Personally i don't think you need much more than 450-500RWHP road racing...Any more than that and you'll be better off racing in a straight line. Unless your 700-800hp mustang was on some kind of monorail like those high speed trains in Japan. J/K

But bottom line ....lots and lots of chassis modifications!!!

Sorry about my rambling....and now my coffee high is gone

i dont know if you read my sig but the car is stripped to frame right now for most of the stuff you listed, i never said i needed the car to have 700-800hp. i want it to have that kinda power, and yes im not an idiot im wel aware that 800hp doesn't stick in the turns but thats where driving techniques comes from, and current suspension and structural mods consist of:
10P cage from auto weld chassis
Max Grip Box with upgraded struts and shocks (MM3, MM2 Valving 500/250 rates) Maximum Motorsports :: The Leader In Mustang Performance Suspension
95 Cobra R rims with hoosier road racing DOT's 275/40ZR17 on all corners
Built 95 cobra rear end 31 spline Torsen Ford LSD 3.73's
Cobra Brakes on all corners with accompaning vacuum and master cylinder mods
Race Harness Seats with 5P harnesses
Wild rides battle boxes
and there is more but i just dont have time to keep posting all the small crap but i think i have prepared the car properly so far, but in no means is it done yet, like i said im just trying to get a feel for what i should put into the car when i get it back togethor