72 Mustang GT

[jas142]

I don't know much about classic stangs.. I own an 04. But my dad and I are looking for a project car to work on together, and we found a 72 Mustang GT with 70k miles, auto tranny, 302 motor.

Is the 302 motor stock from those years, or does that mean its swapped from the 5.0 years?

Whats ths specs on a 72 Mustang GT? Thanks

 

[Platonic Solid]

I don't think there is such an animal as a 72 Mustang GT.
Stock choices for 72 are: 302 2V, 351 2V, 351 4V, 351 4V HO.

 

[Max Power]

If I am not mistaken GT ended in 69 and was revived in 82. In 72, it would have just been trim anyway. 302-2v engines were the most common for that year.

 

[jas142]

Alright thanks guys. What were the stats on the 302-2v. HP/Torque? Any good cheap potential with a 4v carb/headers/exhaust? And where they all fastbacks that year?

 

[Stang_1973]

Well its good to see you are looking forward to restoring a car. I'll try and help you out.

1. No, they were not all fastbacks. The the Mach 1 is a fastback but not all fastbacks are Mach 1's. Try posting your VIN, I am sure some one here will help you decode it and tell you what exactly it is you've got.

2. The 302-2v wasn't exactly the most powerful engine in its stock form. It was pretty weak due to federal regulations. However, you can make it into a mean engine with the right combo of intake, carb, cam, headers and exhuast. Gears will help too if you dont already have 'em.

hope this helps, BTW got any pics of the car?

 

[jas142]

Well its good to see you are looking forward to restoring a car. I'll try and help you out.

1. No, they were not all fastbacks. The the Mach 1 is a fastback but not all fastbacks are Mach 1's. Try posting your VIN, I am sure some one here will help you decode it and tell you what exactly it is you've got.

2. The 302-2v wasn't exactly the most powerful engine in its stock form. It was pretty weak due to federal regulations. However, you can make it into a mean engine with the right combo of intake, carb, cam, headers and exhuast. Gears will help too if you dont already have 'em.

hope this helps, BTW got any pics of the car?

Don't own it yet, just a car we've seen on autotrader and will probably checkout in person later this week.. looks pretty rough outside, but as long as its sound mechanicly we'll look forward to restoring it.

 

[kcp203]

Don't own it yet, just a car we've seen on autotrader and will probably checkout in person later this week.. looks pretty rough outside, but as long as its sound mechanicly we'll look forward to restoring it.

This is the wrong approach to take with a 71-73. It is MUCH cheaper if the body is solid and the mechanicals are shot. 71-73 body parts are not always easy to find in good repro's, and NOS parts are very expensive because of this. (Take it from one who knows from experience!) Body parts are much easier foor earlier models i.e. 64-66.

You will always be best off to find a car with a solid body (no rust) that just needs cosmetic work. The mechanicals are cheap to find and replace since all powertrain options were available accross many Ford models and years.

 

[Platonic Solid]

This is the wrong approach to take with a 71-73. It is MUCH cheaper if the body is solid and the mechanicals are shot. 71-73 body parts are not always easy to find in good repro's, and NOS parts are very expensive because of this. (Take it from one who knows from experience!) Body parts are much easier foor earlier models i.e. 64-66.

You will always be best off to find a car with a solid body (no rust) that just needs cosmetic work. The mechanicals are cheap to find and replace since all powertrain options were available accross many Ford models and years.

Amen to that!

When you do go look at the car, pop the hood and remove the two plastic snap-in cowl covers at the base of the windsheild. Shine a flashlight in there, or better yet reach your arm in towards the passenger side and feel for rust. There is a hat shaped chimney (approx. 7in in dia.) in there that provides air flow to the heater. If that area is rotted out, you're looking at a difficult repair with no aftermarket parts available to help you. Here's a couple pics to give you an idea of how bad this area can get. (Note: the top cowl sheetmetal has been removed in these pictures.)