Well, the bad news is - I don't have the box anymore...
the good news is - Just get the ones for a 1990 Crown Vic they come stock with 73mm Calipers. I used the Crown Vic calipers to save money from those expensive 73mm's
Thanks again man, I'm on the way to the shop to have the Front Drivers line cut bent and flared. I got the bolt outta the end and found out for sure that tha other line is the front passenger, so no need for a new prop valve till I change the rear to disc.
Scratch that idea. Took off the drivers line the M/C and the prop valve and it's not another port. theres a spring in there. Now I will be buying the Tee you linked to me. I'm hoping I can get one fast since now the car is down.
Well I found an even better solution to the problem.
In the link you gave me they used a "T" and an adapter, at the Front Passenger Port, splitting the pressure on the front brakes, which defeats the design of the non adjustable prop valve since the front Driver was going directly into the Master Cylinder. I found an internal diagram and Tech info on the prop valve (I'll give it a try attaching the diagram.)
How they do it is add the "T", adapter and short brake line to the Rear Port of the M/C, the Front Driver is getting direct pressure just like before from the M/C just in a different location, then into the rear port of the Prop Valve. The 2 original lines going into the prop valve stay the same, thus the pressure is still the same as the original.
It cost me $45+ US with shipping, i already got an email stating they have recieved order and are mailing it monday morning, we'll see how their design does and the quality of their parts when it arrives. I'll post the installation when I do it.
Well, while I wait for the parts to come in I was thinking about getting an adjustable valve and the plug to prep for rear disc and I was thinking about replacing the booster while I have the master off.
I understand that the adj prop valve replaces the rear brake coupler on the passenger side and that all the innards and cap have to be replaced on the non adj original, so at least I won't be pullin my hair about that mess.
The only problem I think i'll run into is setting the plunger on the booster to the correct length. If anyone has any instruction links or diagram links, It would be greatly appreciated.
If anyone knows of any others buggy things I'll run into with this part of the project i would love their input.
Well, I installed the mod that came in the mail today, only took 4 business days to get. It took a while of torquing all the fittings - starting her up finding leaks - torquing some more, then off to bleeding - which is the first time I've ever done it and it's so simple with a 1 man bleed kit (Autozone $8.95 USD).
Finished product looks great, easy installation and inexpensive. The difference in braking is Drastically better with no play in the pedal anymore, but I think I either have a bad booster or I didn't adjust it quite perfect. It's a very tight pedal now but still takes some force to get down from 60MPH.
I totally changed my plans, I will definetly be going to rear disc sooner than expected - nothing like good brakes
Well, It seems I do have a bad booster, but before I go get a replacement I wanted to see what you guys thought. Since I replaced my M/C with a 94' GT M/C, should I use the original replacement for the 91' or go with the 94' GT Brake Booster?
I just recently replaced my rotors,pads, and install braided lines. the way i set it up is used direct line to the calipers and to the prop valve. now my pedal is soft, but i think the cause of the soft pedal is the stock booster is to small for my setup now. i bleed the system 3 times already and still feels the same. im going to break in the pads and rotors now, before i change the booster
I understand your plight man, I had a mushy pedal till I replaced my M/C, then after a pressure bleed it became hard as a rock, no play at all. The info I found says that was a symptom of a bad booster.
I replaced the booster with an original oem replacement and after the first bleed I have 1/2 to 3/4 inch of play and it does take less to brake. The only problem is neither the front or the rear lockup, ever and it still takes a crapload of pressure to stop from 60mph.
I bought a vacuum gauge and I am gettin 16" from the tree so my vacuum should be good enough. I applied the gauge to the booster and it will hold any amount of vacuum I give it for any length of time.
This boggles me, lol. I am trying to find a brake pressure testing kit to see what I'm getting at each line. If the pressure is in the range its supposed to be I don't know what the hell the problem is.
Although I do have an SSBC electric vacuum kit, but I have nowhere in the engine compartment to mount it, If I relocate the battery to the trunk i can mount it in it's spot. It gives 20" constant specifically to the brakes only, so maybe the 4"+ increase in pressure might solve my problem but I don't know for sure. It will take a couple weeks before I can afford a relocation kit, I'm going to use the Moroso Battery Box and Kit $200/Tax.
On your issue with the 94/95 booster, I saw an article saying to use a grinder bit and expand the top left Booster mounting hole towards the passenger side about 1/4" and it should slide right in man.
I saw that write up on the 94-95 booster. i just went back to stock brake lines and it feels much better then my last setup. we sahll wait and see whats happens next
Well I talked to a few brake guys and they all seem to think replacing my stock 91 non adjustable prop valve with a 94' GT adjustable prop valve will solve my problems, also they suggested putting a 10lb coupler leading to the rear lines. I don't fully understand why but I have a general idea. hopefully this works and a new 94' GT prop valve from ford is only $89 USD. We'll see what happens, I have it on order and should get in by the end of next week, I'll let ya know.