75 help

75_2+2 · Aug 6, 2009

Does anyone know if this intake will fit a 2.3?

zwhitr · Aug 6, 2009

Wart said:
The high beam indicator could be on it's own ground, or the dash lights rheostat in the light switch could be corroded/not making contact/otherwise non-functional,

Or, of course, the dash lights could be turned all the way down/off.

Agreed

It is separate its a 2 wire circuit however it all runs into a single modular plug which mounts to the back of the cluster.
It attaches to a paper thin printed circuit sheet which feeds power to about 8 different light bulbs for instrument, blinker lights plus at least 4/5 warning lamps seatbelts, lights on, oil, brakes etc...

Like was mentioned before a few minutes pulling the dash cluster-- all front mounted screws around the perimeter of the instrument panel, a speedo cable and tach wire and you are all set for a inspection of your dash cluster..

Ford manufactured the part in 2 pieces using 2 different types of white plastic unfortunately the back part deteriorates badly and ends up crumbling in your hand while trying to changes bulbs etc... I ended up soldering mine directly to the circuit sheet.

as far as the panel being brittle you might be in luck considering your car hasn't see daylight in 24 years.

ps check the fuse its a 5 amp fuse about 1/4 long you must be a contortionist to perform this act or it involves standing on your head.
You'll find out welcome the the II world.

z

75_2+2 · Aug 7, 2009

zwhitr said:
Agreed

It is separate its a 2 wire circuit however it all runs into a single modular plug which mounts to the back of the cluster.
It attaches to a paper thin printed circuit sheet which feeds power to about 8 different light bulbs for instrument, blinker lights plus at least 4/5 warning lamps seatbelts, lights on, oil, brakes etc...

Like was mentioned before a few minutes pulling the dash cluster-- all front mounted screws around the perimeter of the instrument panel, a speedo cable and tach wire and you are all set for a inspection of your dash cluster..

Ford manufactured the part in 2 pieces using 2 different types of white plastic unfortunately the back part deteriorates badly and ends up crumbling in your hand while trying to changes bulbs etc... I ended up soldering mine directly to the circuit sheet.

as far as the panel being brittle you might be in luck considering your car hasn't see daylight in 24 years.

ps check the fuse its a 5 amp fuse about 1/4 long you must be a contortionist to perform this act or it involves standing on your head.
You'll find out welcome the the II world.

z

Thank you! You're right, we did manage to replace the fuse after 30 mins, scraped knuckles, and a stiff neck

I still haven't tackled that one yet and more concentrated on getting her road worthy. Still having bogging issues which is really mind boggling. We will try to disconnect all the emission stuff including the cat and go from there.

My first car was a 65 GT that someone shoehorned a 351C in it many many moons ago back in 1970.

75_2+2 · Aug 7, 2009

Has anyone of you guys out there ever rebuild a Holley 5200?

My son did the honor of rebuilding the carb but now we're lost as to where the 2 ball bearings go in the carb. Anybody?????

Wart · Aug 8, 2009

75_2+2 said:
Has anyone of you guys out there ever rebuild a Holley 5200?

Nope.

My son did the honor of rebuilding the carb but now we're lost as to where the 2 ball bearings go in the carb. Anybody?????

Did you install the carb and the engine didn't want to come off idle?

Went to the Holley site and Yep, no IBPs of the 5200/7343 (?). No wonder your asking, freaking Holley probably doesn't want to admit they made a vacuum secondary two barrel.

Anyhow, I'll bet the balls are the check valves from the accelerator pump circuit, numbers 25 (under the bowel) and 89 (under the squirter) in THIS HOLLEY PDF of the 2300 (2 bbl). It seems all Holleys follow the same basic design theories.

Wart · Aug 8, 2009

zwhitr said:
as far as the panel being brittle you might be in luck considering your car hasn't see daylight in 24 years.

What's funny about that is I've had the ears on some clusters fracture and disintegrate just removing the screws, and I came across a cluster in a II that had been in a junk yard for so long a tree had grown up through the engine compartment. I pulled its cluster, stress tested the mounting ear by pushing on it pretty hard with my thumb, it held.

Come to think of it I think I've noticed the same degrading of plastic in tail light assemblies.

Anyway, I haven't tracked 'plastic verses year' so for me it's a roll of the dice, sometimes the plastic is good and not to be surprised if it isn't.

78CobraII · Aug 14, 2009

75_2+2 said:
Does anyone know if this intake will fit a 2.3?

Not the '74 - '78 2.3L anyway. Those have oval-shaped intake ports on the front and rear cylinders.

You should be able to find the correct parts on eBay if you keep checking.

I have rebuilt a 5200 carb on several occasions, but its been quite a while. The first time I did drop the check balls and had to figure out where they went via a manual. Every time after I was just real careful about taking it apart.

75_2+2 · Aug 20, 2009

Do you have any idea what this will fit? I was told that it was for a 2.3 or maybe a 2.0???

78CobraII · Aug 20, 2009

The '74 - '78 2.3L head has oval-shaped intake ports on the front and rear cylinders.

This is not a 2.3L intake from the Mustang II era. It may be a 2.0L intake, but even that engine would be from before 1974.

There is a similar 2-bbl side-draft carb intake for the 2.3L, along with one for a pair of 2-bbl carbs. I've attached a pic of that setup.

75_2+2 · Aug 25, 2009

Thank you for all that info. With regards to the "check balls", will it make a difference if I had 1 ball in there instead of 2? I remember just putting 1 and put the carb back when I noticed there was another one laying around .

78CobraII · Aug 31, 2009

There is a reason for that 2nd check ball. I don't know what it is, but it's probably a good idea to put it in. i would get the manual back out and open that carb back up.

Wart · Aug 31, 2009

I believe the balls are check valves for the accelerator pump.

75_2+2 · Sep 2, 2009

Okay guys here's an update.

We replaced the carb, took the egr off (very clogged), blocked all emission vacuum, and cut off the catalytic converter.

STILL THE SAME.....

This is truly getting to be sooooo frustrating!!!!

what else is there that causing it to bog down????

GDTrumbo · Sep 2, 2009

Timing belt may have jumped a tooth. Not too uncommon for a Pinto motor.

GT

cobraii351 · Sep 2, 2009

GDTrumbo said:
Timing belt may have jumped a tooth. Not too uncommon for a Pinto motor.

GT

Being as it's not a "Pinto Motor" but a 302 V8 that would be difficult. But thanks...

Have you checked the compression in all the cyls? Maybe you have a cyl that is low, stuck rings or valves not sealing good? The advance working correctly?

Just tossing out some ideas.

Tim

75_2+2 · Sep 2, 2009

Thanks, and will look into that. Really running out of ideas here. Worse comes to worst, I'll just pull the motor out and rebuild it.......

75_2+2 · Sep 4, 2009

Don't get me wrong, the car is purely unmolested and sat inside the garage for 25 years. My first car in 1969 was a 65 GT. I love the contours of these cars but this one is completely mind boggling. Now, I have a car that I can't even start for a period of time because it's so loud after cutting that cat off.

Wart · Sep 4, 2009

cobraii351 said:
Being as it's not a "Pinto Motor" but a 302 V8 that would be difficult. But thanks...

Wart · Sep 4, 2009

GDTrumbo said:
Timing belt may have jumped a tooth. Not too uncommon for a Pinto motor.

GT

And IIRC the 2.3 isn't a 'run free' motor, drop the timing belt and crash the valves.

Come to think .... if the belt failed and was replaced 25 years ago that would be a good reason the car sat for 1/4 of a century.

Before I went any farther with this engine I would check the cam timing and do a compression check.

75_2+2 · Sep 7, 2009

All checked out fine. Actually, before we even though of starting her up, we checked timing, compression, then drained all fluids and replaced them together with new plugs and wires.

We then replaced the fuel pump and carb as well.....still the same. That's when we took it off again and this time removed the egr, blocked off emission vacuum lines and took the cat off.......still the same again.

75 help

New Member

New Member

New Member

I'm Mad as HELL and I'M not Gonna Take it ANYMORE!

I'm Mad as HELL and I'M not Gonna Take it ANYMORE!

Moderator

New Member

Moderator

Attachments

New Member

Moderator

I'm Mad as HELL and I'M not Gonna Take it ANYMORE!

New Member

Member

New Member

New Member

I'm Mad as HELL and I'M not Gonna Take it ANYMORE!

I'm Mad as HELL and I'M not Gonna Take it ANYMORE!

New Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency