Fox 79 ghia new member 351 Windsor swap

Smcin · Oct 4, 2019

I just picked up a 79 Ghia with a 351 Windsor swap project that was started and ran out of money . I got a good buy on it but it was sitting for a long time.
Engine was put together and set in but never hooked up or started. Now it is stuck . So should see if it will free up or just pull it apart ? I have oiled the cylinders today and plan on letting it set for a couple days. If it breaks free what are the odds it is ok to run ? Thanks

General karthief · Oct 5, 2019

A lot depends on the condition of the engine when installed. If it is stuck now I would pull the heads just to see if there is any damage.
Well, truthfully if I could break it loose and it turns over freely I would get it started if it will but sometimes (most times actually) it will smoke and possibly gall the cylinder walls so that would be a decision you have to make.

revhead347 · Oct 5, 2019

Assume it's just some surface rust in the cylinders. No point in taking it apart up front. Taking the engine apart is the worst case scenario anyway, so do what you can to get it running without that. Put some Marvel Mystery oil in the spark plug holes. I usually use one of those little squirt bubbles they use to clean out kid's noses to get it in there without making a mess. You can also squeeze it hard to ensure oil is shooting across the cylinder to the opposite cylinder wall. Let it sit for a day, and then brake the engine loose with a breaker bar on the front crank bolt. Rotate it through a few times, and then start it.

Kurt

General karthief · Oct 5, 2019

Use that squeeze bulb on the kids nose after that, it WILL be clean!

revhead347 · Oct 5, 2019

General karthief said:
Use that squeeze bulb on the kids nose after that, it WILL be clean!

Or the little plastic syringe things they give you at the pharmacy every time you have to give your kid medicine. Those are great!

Kurt

Smcin · Oct 6, 2019

revhead347 said:
Assume it's just some surface rust in the cylinders. No point in taking it apart up front. Taking the engine apart is the worst case scenario anyway, so do what you can to get it running without that. Put some Marvel Mystery oil in the spark plug holes. I usually use one of those little squirt bubbles they use to clean out kid's noses to get it in there without making a mess. You can also squeeze it hard to ensure oil is shooting across the cylinder to the opposite cylinder wall. Let it sit for a day, and then brake the engine loose with a breaker bar on the front crank bolt. Rotate it through a few times, and then start it.

Kurt
[/QUOT

revhead347 said:

Assume it's just some surface rust in the cylinders. No point in taking it apart up front. Taking the engine apart is the worst case scenario anyway, so do what you can to get it running without that. Put some Marvel Mystery oil in the spark plug holes. I usually use one of those little squirt bubbles they use to clean out kid's noses to get it in there without making a mess. You can also squeeze it hard to ensure oil is shooting across the cylinder to the opposite cylinder wall. Let it sit for a day, and then brake the engine loose with a breaker bar on the front crank bolt. Rotate it through a few times, and then start it.

Kurt

Click to expand...

Kurt it is quite a ways from being able to start. It was just set in place and nothing hooked up . I will have to get all of the systems redone and hooked up . Fuel tank out and junk . Brakes need redone . No radiator in it but have the old one . No distributor, will need to get one . Then all of the wiring . Which distributor would you use ?
Was told it is a .40 over bore and has a 521 cam .it has a edlebrock torker 11 intake .with a 4 Barrel. Not sure which on yet .
Thanks for your help

revhead347 · Oct 8, 2019

That's going to be a project. I would look inside the intake ports of the heads and see if there is any rust in there. Rust in the intake ports will get sucked in on startup. The first thing I would do is what I said. See if you can break the engine loose with some Marvel Mystery Oil, and at least be able to rotate it with a ratchet by hand. If you can't break it loose, then you know you are definitely going to have to pull the engine.

I don't know how complicated you want to go on the ignition system. I put one of these on one of the trucks I worked on.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pro-66983b/overview/make/ford

It's basically a Chevy all in one HEI distributor mounted on a Ford shaft. The Chevy Distributor has to have a cap and rotor change fairly frequenly when daily driven, but it works well. Put it in the engine, and hook one power wire to it, hook up a vacuum line to the carb base plate, and it's good to go. It simply doesn't get any easier for a carb engine.

Kurt

Smcin · Oct 9, 2019

revhead347 said:
That's going to be a project. I would look inside the intake ports of the heads and see if there is any rust in there. Rust in the intake ports will get sucked in on startup. The first thing I would do is what I said. See if you can break the engine loose with some Marvel Mystery Oil, and at least be able to rotate it with a ratchet by hand. If you can't break it loose, then you know you are definitely going to have to pull the engine.

I don't know how complicated you want to go on the ignition system. I put one of these on one of the trucks I worked on.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pro-66983b/overview/make/ford

It's basically a Chevy all in one HEI distributor mounted on a Ford shaft. The Chevy Distributor has to have a cap and rotor change fairly frequenly when daily driven, but it works well. Put it in the engine, and hook one power wire to it, hook up a vacuum line to the carb base plate, and it's good to go. It simply doesn't get any easier for a carb engine.

Kurt

I have decided to go ahead and pull the engine. Not much to unhook at this point and don’t want to go they everything to get it together and have it fail later. I plan on pulling this weekend or next . Depending on how things go . I have a 65 I am trying to finish up so I can put it up for sale to replenish the funds . I should have it running again shortly . Thanks and I will keep it updated as I go .

General karthief · Oct 9, 2019

What? No pics of the 65? Maybe a pic of the fox in a garage ready to be worked on. Doesn't need to be your garage, some one in your neighborhood should have a nice garage that you can snap a couple pics of when they aren't looking and foto shop your car inside. Maybe catch the neighbors cat nap'n on the floor for that homey effect.

Smcin · Oct 12, 2019

Here are a couple pictures of the 65 .down to getting a lot of wiring finished up. Also one of the 79View attachment 636451 View attachment 636452

Gs1987GT · Oct 12, 2019

Nice! The 65 and the 79! I really do like the 79, color and it's a notch.....very cool!

Smcin · Oct 12, 2019

Gs87GT said:
Nice! The 65 and the 79! I really do like the 79, color and it's a notch.....very cool!

I think I want to extend the black stripe all the way back and down in the front . I think it looks a weird with just the hood . The yellow does need a few touch ups also. Here is a better picture of the 65 , the shine is better then the pictures show . Too bad it’s just a 200 in it .

Gs1987GT · Oct 12, 2019

Beautiful car man! 6 but so what? It looks really nice. Congrats, two nice stangs!

Smcin · Oct 12, 2019

One more question . I have the original radiator that was for the 302, will it work ok for the 351W ? Or should I look to get a new one that will cool better ?
Thanks

Gs1987GT · Oct 13, 2019

If its clean inside, why not give it a shot and see before you buy a new one? Can't hurt. Run it and then you'll know. If it starts getting hot, swap it out. Maybe have it cooked out to be sure its clean inside? Hopefully there are still rad shops out there that do that? Lol.

General karthief · Oct 13, 2019

You should be able to tell if the radiator is worth trying, are the fins stable and not rotted in the corners, and look into the the tank with a light, look for crusty stuff in the tubes, it only hurts your wallet a little to get one checked out, you are going to drive it right? Piece of mind.

Smcin · Oct 13, 2019

General karthief said:
You should be able to tell if the radiator is worth trying, are the fins stable and not rotted in the corners, and look into the the tank with a light, look for crusty stuff in the tubes, it only hurts your wallet a little to get one checked out, you are going to drive it right? Piece of mind.

Yes I plan on driving it . Want it to be reliable but will not be a everyday driver . I looked up and there is a shop not real far from me Tao I will call them tomorrow.
Thanks

Smcin · Oct 17, 2019

Ok have a new question for anyone who nows. Does anyone make a replacement gas tank for a 79 that is bigger the. The stock 12.5 gal? If so where do you find them ?
Thanks

Smcin · Oct 19, 2019

Update !
Pulled engine today . Found torque converter was just set in place . Not bolted in . Engine looks real clean . Will pull heads tomorrow when I get back to it .i did pull the intake and very clean in side so far . But dry . Not oiled up at all . Looks like it’s been sitting for quite a while .

Smcin · Oct 21, 2019

General karthief said:
You should be able to tell if the radiator is worth trying, are the fins stable and not rotted in the corners, and look into the the tank with a light, look for crusty stuff in the tubes, it only hurts your wallet a little to get one checked out, you are going to drive it right? Piece of mind.

I talked to a radiator shop near me and he said I would be money ahead to just buy a new 3 row aluminum and put in it . I did get it pulled and it has started to break free . I am going to break it all down and clean it all up and put it back together. I have found a few things that make me think the previous owner did not do it right .

Fox 79 ghia new member 351 Windsor swap

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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