Well my notch is peg legging now so I figure its time for a rebuild. My question is can I pull the carrier out and rebuild it without having to disturb and re-shim the pinion gear? Who sells the best rebuild kit? Any help would be appreciated.
8.8 Rebuild
- Thread starter pearlnotchback
- Start date
pissedoff92
Member
Yes as long as you dont change anything, such as the ring and pinion. Just mark your caps and keep the shim packs together and on the right sides. it wont hurt to check backlash before and after but theoretically if your just rebuilding the traction lok nothing should change. I just bought the 04' cobra clutches for mine and shimmed it on the tight side. both rear wheels spin for sure now!
Street Side Auto had the carbon fiber kit to my door for $107. If you are just doing new clutch disc, the carrier can stay in the housing. Granted, it is easier to work on it outside the housing.
Joe
Joe
pissedoff92
Member
I believe i got them from late model resto. But good luck with the new S-spring me and my old man fought it for about an hour and that was on a bench.
The Cobra clutch pack uses carbon fiber clutches, vs. stock material (organic maybe?). They are supposed to have more holding power. The CF kit is supposed to be used with a 31 spline carrier, but they also fit the stock 28 spline unit. The only difference is the S-Springs are different sizes, so just re-use your old one rather than the new 31 spline one provided in the kit. FYI, I used a junkyard Explorer differential (31 spline), which I got for free, and rebuilt it with the CF kit. Not bad for a $107 investment.
Joe
Joe
pissedoff92
Member
I installed the s spring that came with the kit. It was stiff but thats what you want. No where did it say that it was meant for 31 spline axles. I have factory everything with the exception of 4.10's and everything works fine.
So since you rebuilt yours with this kit do you have posi all the time no matter what? Are you running 4.10's with a 5 speed?
I'll correct myself...you are right, it doesn't say that anywhere. I was basing that off of advise that I recieved from others prior to building mine. I used a 31 spline carrier, so it didn't make much difference to me. I apologize for the bad info if this is correct.
Joe
I found a trick to getting the S spring if your having trouble, use some pliers to compress the s spring and tighten 2 worm clamps around the S spring holding it compressed, just make sure the screw part of the clamp is facing outwards so you can release the tension once installed. Install the S spring, release the tension and pull the worm clamps out, you may have to use vise grips and maybe some side cutters the cut them worm clamp in half to make is easier to remove. Ive done this multiple times, it sure beats tring to hit the S spring into the carrier.
ratio411
Founding Member
What do you mean by "all the time, no matter what..."
A limited slip differential is just that, it limits wheel slip by transferring power from one wheel to the other as needed.
It doesn't always spin both tires when the wheels slip. Sometimes it spins one side or the other, sometimes it throws the slip from one side to the other, alternating.
You are referring to a different type of differential if you are thinking of one that spins both wheels all the time.
A spool is the only thing that does exactly that, but they are dangerous on the street, and dangerous to the health of your car's parts, especially axles and tires.
Next would be a ratcheting diff, like a Detroit Locker. It is both tires, full on, all the time, EXCEPT in turns.
Makes them MUCH safer and easier on parts.
Then, you have the limited slip units (Posi is a GM marketing label, like Trac-Lok is to Ford)....
pissedoff92
Member
To answer your question about locked all the time, well yes and no. Like ratio 411 said. its a limited slip diff so when you turn one wheel naturally wants to spin faster than the other. Now I wanted mine to be REALLLL tight and I didnt really care if it chirped around corners (it rarely does) now to do this I bought the better CF cobra clutches, I used the better order of the clutches VS steel plates, and I also shimmed the clutch packs on the tight side. There is a great youtube video that I used for reference by badshoeproductions. GREAT info from a really knowledgeable guy. If you have any more questions id be happy to help I work alot though so I dont get on here every day. GOOD LUCK!!
THANKS FOR ASKING THIS! Next question - can you replace the clutch pack without pulling the carrier? Would pulling the axles provide enough clearance? That way there would not be any chance of messing up the pinion to gear settings.
Yes, you can leave the carrier in the housing. Remove retaining pin bolt, retaining pin,c-clips, axles, side gears and spider gears, clutch packs come out with it. Reverse order to put back together. However, if you decide to take the carrier out, it will not mess up your gear set as long as you put it all back the way it came out.
Joe
Joe
Hey how exactly do the side gears and spider gears come out? What holds them in?
Once you remove the retaining pin bolt, and the retaining pin, you can rotate one axle to walk the spider gears to the inspection hole in the carrier. Hold one axle still, leave the trans in gear, or park, and rotate the other axle. Without the retaining pin the spider gears will walk their way to the inspection hole where you can remove them one at a time. Pull your c-clips from the end of your axle shafts, remove your axles, and through the inspection hole in the carrier, you can pull your side gears and clutch packs.
The retainer pin holds the spider gears in, and they in turn hold the side gears in place. Check out this website, it has great info.
http://www.angelfire.com/theforce/5ohcpa/cpa5ohtech001.htm
Joe
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