Believe me— I will not say done again.I'm glad you didn't say done! They are never done just drivable.
Thanks for the information.Those pans are flimsy, the bolt holes can get out of shape, lay the pan down on a flat surface you will see the holes pushed out, just tap them back flat, skin (don't need much) the gasket surfaces on the pan and trans with rtv, sit the gasket on the pan, run the bolts up snug and let it sit overnight. There is no pressure in the pan, it just holds the fluid so no need to put any torque on the bolts. Run a few heat cycles and check them, snug 'em up if needed.
i change the trans fluid in the dump truck every 30-40k and it don't leak one drop.
My way of thinking on this was if it didn’t leak for 36 years— then maybe it was time to give it a try.Cork gaskets are so 70's, today it's rubber/synthetic stuff. It will still work, again rtv and snug, sit overnight. Cork just does not have the longevity, you'll be alright.
Thank youWith cork gaskets on transmission pans I use super high tack " yellow snot ". It was the only thing that would seal the old chrysler K car cork valve covers. Its made by Permatex and the tube needs to be squeezed a few times before use. Make sure the surface is clean and you'll have no problems. With the old cork gaskets you used to have to retorque after a few heat cyles....that was hard to do in a busy shop. That high tack never failed...but the gasket will tear in half when you go to remove the pan again....and you'll have to work a few spots around the pan to get it to come loose without bending the pan. You just need a thin smear on the gasket. Applied like Elmer's glue and not like silicone.
Its sold everywhere....almost...
Should I apply it to both sides of the gasket?With cork gaskets on transmission pans I use super high tack " yellow snot ". It was the only thing that would seal the old chrysler K car cork valve covers. Its made by Permatex and the tube needs to be squeezed a few times before use. Make sure the surface is clean and you'll have no problems. With the old cork gaskets you used to have to retorque after a few heat cyles....that was hard to do in a busy shop. That high tack never failed...but the gasket will tear in half when you go to remove the pan again....and you'll have to work a few spots around the pan to get it to come loose without bending the pan. You just need a thin smear on the gasket. Applied like Elmer's glue and not like silicone.
Its sold everywhere....almost...
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