Engine 86-93 V8 Distributor Collar Differences

[AeroCoupe]

It appears that some distributors came with two different styles of collars. This is part #12 in this distributor diagram (I know the diagram is for a 94/94 car but you get the idea):

Item	Part Number	Description
1	388483-S2	Screw (2 Req'd)
2	—	Armature (Rotary Vane) (Part of 12127)
3	—	Shaft Assembly (Part of 12127)
4	N801293-S36	Screw
5	—	Stator (Hall Effect Vane Switch Assembly) (Part of 12127)
6	—	Octane Rod (Part of 12127)
7	—	Base Assembly (Part of 12127)
8	—	O-Ring (Part of 12127)
9	—	Thrust Washer (4.9L) (Part of 12127)
10	—	Roll Pin (Part of 12127)
11	—	Gear (Part of 12127)
12	—	Collar (Part of 12127)

The distributor that is currently in my '93 has the collar that looks like this one:

The spare distributor that I have has the collar that looks like this one and came out of a 93 5.0 or at least that is what the salvage yard advertised it being from.

This sticker on the body of my spare distributor:

What I am wanting to confirm is that the spare I have will work in the 8.2 deck roller block that is in my '93 as I want to tear it down and clean it up but I don't want to waste my time if its not going to work.

 

[nickyb]

Both collars will work,but your salvage yard one is Gay. Just saying ....

 

[AeroCoupe]

and much appreciated.

 

[Noobz347]

More gay distributors:

Just in case you're looking for others.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Now I am just going to peal the sticker off. All joking aside there are quite a few of these distributors with that sticker on them. I would really like to know what the "W/MOD" means other than the low hanging fruit of "its gay". Maybe its that it came with the TFI?

 

[Noobz347]

Now I am just going to peal the sticker off. All joking aside there are quite a few of these distributors with that sticker on them. I would really like to know what the "W/MOD" means other than the low hanging fruit of "its gay". Maybe its that it came with the TFI?

Per Chat GPT:

What Does "GAY" Indicate?​

1. Ford Supplier/Batch Code:
   • Ford often stamped distributors with three-letter codesrepresenting:
     • Plant location
     • Manufacturing batch
     • Quality control tracking
2. Possible Date Code Encoding:
   • Some Ford distributors used three-letter date codes with the first letter being a year code (G = 1987 or 1997 depending on cycle).
   • The other letters could indicate the month and week of production.
3. Ford Internal Identification for Rebuilds/Service Units:
   • Some rebuilt or service replacement distributors received extra stamping for tracking.

And you're right about the "W/MOD". It indicates a part that already has the TFI module installed.

 

[AeroCoupe]

It’s disassembled and will get cleaned up tomorrow. Anyone know how to test the PIP out of the dizzy?

 

[AeroCoupe]

Got it disassembled and the TFI module tested good so that's a win. The shaft was gummed up and I could not separate it from the housing so had to use some PB Blaster and let it soak. Got that apart and cleaned the gear, collar, and shaft so all those are good to go. Ordered some brash tube brushes to clean the old oil from the housing and once that is done I will clean up the outside of the housing and then put it back together.

Does anyone know how to test the PIP out of the distributor?

 

[89ripper]

Ive only seen tests with it in, i was curious myself when you had asked about it...still kinda researching that

 

[Noobz347]

Put a 12V power source to the red and black wires.

Test voltage between the sense wire (green?) and ground as you pass a chunk of metal past the sensor ( 0 - 5V +/-). You could also use a dummy light.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Found another body I had stashed so popped them into the oversized ultra sonic cleaner I got for keeping my home invasion fixers clean.

This is round two and they are looking pretty good. Will run the brass tube brushes through them when they get here tomorrow and then clean them in the ultra sonic one more time.

 

[AeroCoupe]

I am pretty happy with the results from just the hot water with Dawn.

So here is the difference wear wise between the two collars. This one had this collar on it:

You can see how flat the bottom of the bushing inserts have worn in this picture:

Now take a look at the one that had this collar on it:

The wear is pretty noticeable:

 

[Noobz347]

Hmmmm... I wonder if that screws with operation.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Increases the amount the shutter wheel and rotor can move upwards but whether or not that causes an issue I don’t know.

I think you can fix it by running the other style collar as it would ride on the outer engraved part.

 

[Noobz347]

Increases the amount the shutter wheel and rotor can move upwards but whether or not that causes an issue I don’t know.

I think you can fix it by running the other style collar as it would ride on the outer engraved part.

I was thinking a phenolic spacer.

@Mustang5L5

 

[Noobz347]

I think you can fix it by running the other style collar as it would ride on the outer engraved part.

This assumes you have parts to swap back and forth, correct?

 

[manicmechanic007]

Up and down movement of the distributor shaft will affect timing
We used to just put a spark plug washer in there to take up the clearance on the ones that needed it
Don't test the stator, replace it
A spark plug washer will chew into that housing some more quite nicely
Take up the slack and the chewing will stop

 

[AeroCoupe]

Got the brass brushes in and all it took was some WD40 and a few passes through each one and they cleaned right up. Washed them down with some brake parts cleaner and good to go. Need to see if Noobz's idea on how to test the PIP works and then if its good then reassemble the distributor and stash it as a spare. Will leave the TFI chip off as the car has a remote mount kit in it so this one will go in a box as a spare. I will post back up with the PIP / hall effect sensor testing.