Progress Thread '88 GT Hell Horse - All over the place

Sooo after 2 weeks of going back and forth on my issues with the firmware it seems a few things went sideways.

I kept going going back to them stating the firmware doesnt have all the changes requested. They came back saying they tested it on there side and it works, but then ask is the firmware successful passing the flashing process. I have now moved to screenshots showing the fact that it is passing with no issue. They reply back you have it on the wrong setting that it needs to be on the other one, because It was only flashing the firmware to the programmer not the board itself. The documentation states the setting I have been using. So, I change the setting and try to flash the firmware. Now, it comes back with an error.

So, I give them the update of the error I am receiving, and they now question if everything is hooked up correctly. Ah YES!!!! So in the end to make them happy I tested 2 cables, 2 power supplies (wall power and car battery), and 2 driver boards. It still comes back with the same error message.

Then, they ask for me to change the programmers switch over to the left-side even thought the documentation shows the switch for the programmer needs to be on the right-side. Low and behold it works WOW everything documentation wise has been the opposite.

I take the new flashed firmware and install it in the Digital Dash to come across a couple additional minor issues that I guess they are not able to program in the firmware. In the end I am good with as long as it does what I wanted I dont care. So after the 2 weeks of back and forth everything works as planned and the Digital Dash is fully operational.

Its been a crazy ride, but this new screen and enclosure are definitely worth it.

Been a little slow getting progress done with work being very busy, but the plans are to get a video of the Digital Dash up and operational now thats its done. Also going to be breaking the engine down further: removing the valvetrain, heads, and waterpump/timing cover. I can then flip the engine over to start looking at the bearings to see how good/bad things are.

I got to paint the back lid for the Digital Dash. Here is some before and after.

Noobz347 said:

What slicer do you use?

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I use Cura for the Slicer and Fusion 360 for 3D Modeling

That would be awesome!!! I will send you over the model for your magic. I know there are all kinds of settings on Cura, and I'm only scratching the surface of what it can do.

Sorry guys for the delay in my updates, but have been bouncing around from project to project. Also, there has been some changes at work, so that slowed down a few things as well.

Digital Dash Updates
I have buttoned up the latest version of the dash, so this is now in the done list. Until, I come up with additional items that I want to add to it. If you guys are interested in the comparison of the 7" to the 12.3" let me know and I could grab a quick picture of the two side-by-side

Center Console Updates
I picked this project back up since the Digital Dash was done. I printed the extension knobs to test fit them, and with a little work was able to fit the knob to the factory HVAC Controls. The center hole that turns the selector is a little to small, so I will need to take some additional measurements to update the model accordingly. It also needs to little additional material taken out of the center for the knob to recess further into the controls.




Engine Updates
I have slowly been able to get some time in the garage to work on the engine. I flipped the engine over and removed the rear main bearing cap to find that it shows copper. There are no grooves, scratches, or marks of any kind on the bearing or the crankshaft. I didnt drive the car much it was hurt so that it probably why its not worse off.



I also have confirmed that the engine is still 100% original with the factory Ford stamped bearings, and also the pistons are factory original as well. This means that it has been totally untouched. So, I am planning on getting all new Clevite P bearings, and putting this thing back together again.



Then, I moved on to the heads, since I have been trying to figure out what they are. They clearly have had work done to them, so I removed the valvetrain and bolts. I removed the head and flipped it over to find out that they are stock E7 heads. I was hoping for something else, but with the current gameplan for the engine these heads will be able to make plenty of power to split the the block with a 76mm turbo. Current plans are to just refresh them with new valve seals, clean/polish the valves, and lap the valves.

Since it was a pretty day yesterday I got to work in the garage a little bit. I decided to tackle the explorer intake some more gasket matching the upper intake. I outlined out the areas that needing to opened up, and then blended down the runner. There was also some ugly casing bosses in the runner as well that I smoothed out.




A couple hours later and a few sanding wheels on the Dremel the upper intake is finished. I opened the throttle body opening a couple months ago to 70mm for the polished one I already had on the car. I left it as a rough finish since it is on the intake side and it assists in atomization of the fuel and the planned WMeth for this build.





I now need to do the same to the lower intake. I know most of the gains are in the lower intake, so I will be spending some time on it making it right.

I know that updates have been a little slow on this project as I have been consumed by a couple other projects and life obstacles. There has been a little progress that I decided to purchase the necessary parts for rebuilding the bottomend. I purchased the main bearings, rod bearings, balancer timing tape, -10AN weld-on bung, oil pan gasket, and timing cover gasket kit. Hopefully it will be as simple as replacing the bearings. I purchased the timing tape for the balancer due to most of the paint has been rubbed off over the years, so this build will be a clean-up/restore as well. It will not be as detailed as @Mustang5L5 as I wish it would be, but it will get cleaned, painted, and upgraded along the way. I will also be welding on the -10AN bung for the future 76mm Turbo that will be added as well to this project.

I will be taking pictures along the way as I disassemble, clean, and reassemble the engine. The next steps after the bottomend is to work on rebuilding the heads. They have already been ported and polished previously, so it will be just disassemble, clean/polish the valves, lap the valves, install new valve seals, and reassemble. Since I will be adding the turbo I will be using head studs as well, since there might be in the future a new block. This is way down the road, but I am one of those buy things once type of people.

I just realized that's it's been a couple months since I last updated my thread. Not much has been done due to working on other projects mainly the Digital Dash. Now that it's warming up I have been putting more thought into the rebuilding of the engine, which leads me you guys thoughts.

As you know the bearings need to be replaced in the bottom end of which I have bought the replacements. The heads will also will be rebuilt as well with new seals, polish up the valves, and lap the valves for a good seal.

The question is should I pull the Pistons and hone cylinders and replace the rings? I don't believe anything is wrong with them and the cylinder walls look good. This is going to be just a simple stock bottom with a 76mm turbo on it.

Well it's finally update time as it's been 3 months since my last update as it seems that family and work and more work take up most of my time from the garage. I went ahead and decided to just go ahead and rebuild the whole engine just so it's completely fresh since I'm this far into it it wasn't much more to just replace the piston rings making sure they're gapped for boost.

So to finally make some forward progress the UPS Brown Santa drop me off a package I gave me everything I need to put the engine back together again. Went ahead and decided to go ahead and put head studs and dropped in based off Steve's advice deka 60s to make sure it has plenty of fuel for its new snail that is coming. I'm going for a red and black theme on this particular combo so it's going to get all cleaned and painted before put back into the engine bay.

Now for the pictures:

Getting new car parts always starts the fire under getting them installed as we all know they shouldn't just sit around and collect dust now can we. I decided to start getting things ready for next weekend, since that is "D" day for rebuilding the longblock of the engine again. So to start things off I cleaned up the stock oil pan and then drilled it for the -10AN weld-in fitting for the turbo oil drain. This engine lived a long and dirty life, so it has been taking extra time to get all the grime off everything.

There was some method to the madness of where to drill for the oil return. I found a picture of the location on the stock pan being 1 3/4" down from the rail of the oil pan, and then 1/2" back from the first oil pan bolt.



On to the pictures since that's the only reason why we are here:

With the oil pan drilled for the fitting it was time to weld it in and clean ithe pan up. There was a couple dents that I knocked back out, sanded and primed/painted the pan the color of the build.

a91what said:

Looking good, what's the plan for the hotside?

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I know a guy that needed some brake parts that I'm trading to get this SWEET turbo from with the below specs:

78/75 Billet Wheel
.96AR Exhaust
T4 Flange

Im going to be fabbing my own hot and cold sides using the below WG and BOV:

Precision Turbo 46mm WG
Precision Turbo 50mm BOV

I now moved on to the valve covers removing the inside baffle of the stock covers. The Crane Cobra 1.7 Roller Rockers where just touching, so out came the baffle and ground down the inside as well. I then cut off the factory nipple off the filler neck and welded on another -10AN fitting that will end up going to a catch can. Got them all cleaned up and painted black before I print a stencil of the logo that will be painted on top of the covers.



I then 3D modeled and printed a new PCV Plug that I screwed in a final -10AN fitting for the second line going to the catch can. I figured between the passenger valve cover and the lower intake it should be able to handle any crankcase pressure in the system.

Still just some small updates being done. I took the hard coolant tubes, and cut the nipple that went to the EGR spacer off. The then welded and smoothes it out to paint it.

Next on the list to be painted is the timing cover and balancer after I get them degreased.