Progress Thread '88 GT Hell Horse - All over the place

The offset bushing kit came in from S&S Engineering which includes the bushings, rotor spacers, 10.9 bolts, and roll pin and drill bit. This is a well thought out kit in my eyes, and should make the installation process a lot easier.

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I also heard back from the Machine Shop that they should have the block ready for pickup Monday or Tuesday. It just took a little longer as they thought they had a sleeve in stock and didnt so needed to order one they said. I can then drop the crank and 2 rod/pistons to check the clearance of the rod bolts to make sure they don't hit. I hear back and forth that it will need clearance or not with a 331, but thought it would be best to just check and take it back to them. They can then final hone it to the correct piston to side wall clearance, hot tank, install cam bearings and freeze plugs.
 
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I have H beam rods with ARP hardware in my 331. My block needed clearance. Always great to check it out for yourself though.
 
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That is why I am taking the extra steps just to be sure, because I want to make sure its right the 1st time. I will be running an I-Beam rod with ARP 2000 Bolts, so hopefully Im able to get the block back this week to work on it over the holiday weekend.
 
I heard back from the Machine Shop and the block is ready for me to pick it up. They have the bores done just enough to get the pistons in, so I can check the clearance of the block. They also spun my new crank and it needed to be balanced, so they got that all done as well.

I will be picking up everything on tomorrow :banana:
 
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I heard back from the Machine Shop and the block is ready for me to pick it up. They have the bores done just enough to get the pistons in, so I can check the clearance of the block. They also spun my new crank and it needed to be balanced, so they got that all done as well.

I will be picking up everything on tomorrow :banana:
I don’t understand why they don’t have a piston from you. Every machine shop i’ve ever used finish hones the cylinder to the provided piston dimensions.
 
I don’t understand why they don’t have a piston from you. Every machine shop i’ve ever used finish hones the cylinder to the provided piston dimensions.
They do have a piston from me that was used for the balancing of the crank and the fitment of the block. The reason they are not finish honing is because I am checking the rod clearance to the block, so they honed it just enough to get the piston in. I need to make sure the rod bolts are not going to hit, and if they do then clearance as necessary. After done, I take it back to them to final hone, hot tank, install cam bearings, oil plugs, and freeze plugs.
 
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Time for an update now that I have been able sneak out to work on the engine. So yes, I was able to pick up everything last Friday, but then everything sat over the 3-day holiday weekend. Everyone knows how it goes for having time to work in the garage during those times.

So today I got the block on the stand and the crank and (2) piston and rods put in to see if the block needs to be notched. Short answer is yes it does need to be notched as the rod bolt hits the bore. Not by much so it should be fairly easy to mark all the bores where it needs to be notched. Then I can take everything back apart notched each bore with my carbide bits, clean the block of the shavings, and reassemble to make sure everything is good to go before taking back to the machine shop.

Time for the pictures

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I went through and installed rods and pistons into each bore marking the areas that needed to be notched on the block.

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I then disassembled the entire block for grinding of those areas with a carbide bit on my angle grinder and smoothing it out with my dremel. I used a sheet to cover the whole block except the small area that I was grinding and then used a rolled up towel inside each bore. This helped when I ground each bore I was able to vacuum the area and then shake the sheet clean doing this for each bore. Don't have any pictures this time around as the block just got dropped back off at the machine shop. He said that it would be done in the next 1-2 days, so I should be able to go pick it back up before the weekend.
 
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i woulda just put that sht together and let it self clearance.. :taco:
I do appreciate your idea and have plans on sending this engine to the moon, but its only on one set course of destruction via boosting past the "500hp limits". Until then, I rather keep it in one piece, so I can have some fun with this build before it meets its end.
 
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Progress is being made again, so I was able to pick up the block a couple weeks ago as planned. I now have it on the stand oiled, cleaned, taped with the a couple coats of high temp primer. I am waiting for that to dry thoroughly, so I can get the red paint on the block. I will then be able to start working on putting together the shortblock. Progress is slow, but are making movement forward.

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Finally starting to get some of the more "expensive" items on the list for this project. Trying to get all the pieces to complete the engine and the turbo kit currently. This build is being put together as a one-n-done configuration, so are making sure the fuel system is more than adequate along with good parts for the turbo kit BOV and Wastegate wise.

This is a black and red theme so we have been seeing a lot of the red components, but here comes of the black ones.

Going from stock fuel rails to these is a huge.... difference.

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Then went with a 46mm Wastegate and a 50mm BOV. This should be more than enough for this combo.

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I have been making progress but very slow progress due to needing to tackle a section of the car that I have been dreading since its been parked. The hood flew up 3 years ago now smashing in the cowl area. I didn't want to have it all cut out and put in a new one as I knew that I could fix it. I really really hate body work due to being so slow at it, but in the end I do think that it came out pretty good. It doesn't have any filler on it which should flatten out the rest of the spots.

Before

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After

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