88 mustang error codes

[spierce]

I just checked the codes on my 88 w/ a 351 swap and I'm getting the following codes:
81 - Secondary Air Diverter Circut Failure
82 - Secondary Air Bypass Circut Failure
95 - bad fuel pump to ECU ground

what do these mean?
I understand I'll have to look into the ground for the fuel pump but what are the other two.

I just finished replacing about 80% of the vaccum line in the engine compartment and put a oil seperator in the car and decided to check the codes before I go get it emisions tested.
And it looks like to me the 81 and 82 failures are due to the Emissions parts.

My heads are not drilled for smog, but all the hardware is still hooked up.

 

[spierce]

I found the code 95 is due to the Mass Air conversion, I found that in another post I doubt the new line was run when the conversion was done.
http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html

any ideas on the other codes?

 

[HISSIN50]

The others are TAB and TAD, right?

Do you run a functional AIR set-up? If the TAB and TAD aren't connected (the air pump hoses themselves don't matter, nor do your passages on the heads), it can toss a code. Jrichker has posted the resistor values needed to try and trick the CEL.

Good luck with the sniffer.

 

[spierce]

yes the air system is functional, it still pipes into the H-pipe.
What are TAD and TAB?
are those the silonoids for switching where the air is pumped to, the head or exhaust?

 

[HISSIN50]

Since the AIR system is still basically functional, give the TAB and TAD a once-over (you're right - Thermactor Air Bypass and TA-Diverter). As I recall, you should see 12 volts at the red wire and the other wire is controlled via the computer (via a ground pulse). You can see if the ground signal every comes or disconnect the electrical connector and bench test the solenoid to see if it actuates when the ground pathway is provided.

Jrichker has a nifty write-up on these codes if you want more info.

Good luck.

 

[spierce]

Since I don't have the smog drilled heads can I just remove the TAD and TAB solonoids and have the smog pump always dump air into the H-pipe?
then put the resisters in to get rid of the check engine codes.

I'd like to always be dumping air into the exhaust so it looks like it's got a lower emissions.

Judging by this post, http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=678535,
if I was to remove the two vac. solonoids I could just hook up a vac. line up to the diverter's in line and make sure that the air was going the right way, ie into the ehxust and bypassing the heads.

Would there be any problems with doing this?

 

[HISSIN50]

You could do what you propose (be SURE to keep the check-valve in the plumbing to the air pump no matter what you do. It saves the head of the pump in the event of an afterfire).

I know for me, they check my SMOG solenoids pretty closely to ensure they are there (I run all OEM smog stuff). Otherwise, you could run direct air (through the check valve) to the cats like you propose. Creative hose work could make it look almost OEM (not that we'd ever want to fudge emissions equipment - we're talking about things for you to do for off-road reasons only, of course ).

I would rather leave all the stuff functional. Unfortunately you might have had a hose come loose at the back of the heads . That would be the only thing disturbed and your cats would get their air supply just like OEM (and 99% of the time).

There are a few ways to do it. You know how the system works so just do what seems best logistically.
Good luck.