88 Mustang Runs Hot!

Anthony Finuf

Member
Jan 29, 2017
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So I've been battling a temp issue on my 88 mustang 5.0.So some back story I bought the car it had blown head gaskets I got it replaced installed a 180 tstat new radiator. I have a electrical gauge installed into the stock port and I've also used a laser temp reader. It runs at 220 constantly. I've read and read and just find fluff information. If someone could provide some input on what to check first and most common problems. Could cheap coolant cause it to run hot? The top hose gets hot and the tstat opens and I installed it correctly. Bottom hose has a small slit in the bottom I'm going to get all new hoses but I wouldn't think it would cause it to warm that much? What do you guys think about the coolant attitives?
 
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Ok, some questions,
What modifications
What is timing set at
When does it run hot
Is coolant flowing through radiator
Some answers,
No, cheap coolant will not make your car run hot
No, any coolant additives will not help
 
I'm not sure what timing is at his can I check? It seams to cool down when sitting but I'm not sure honestly. Sometimes when it's driving others when I'm at a stop light and vise versa as to when it cools down.
 
If radiator is new, the internal piping is probably not clogged.

I assume it's the stock clutch fan setup? If so, with engine off, grab fan and spin it. Does it immediately stop and have resistance, or does it freewheel very loose?
 
If radiator is new, the internal piping is probably not clogged.

I assume it's the stock clutch fan setup? If so, with engine off, grab fan and spin it. Does it immediately stop and have resistance, or does it freewheel very loose?
I'm assuming that this fan is stock? And it spins maybe a quarter of a turn?
 

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Do you have underdrive pulleys? Is the air deflector under the car still there? Have you purged the cooling system? You said the lower hose has a slit in it, so your cooling system can't build pressure allowing the coolant to boil. Get the leaks fixed, purge the cooling system of air, test or replace your radiator cap, etc.
 
This is your second go round with this problem, please clarify some things,
Did you do the head gaskets?
Are you using an electronic gauge?
You have a stock fan/clutch and if it has resistance, cold, than it is likely ok, 1/4 turn, stop, it's good.
 
This is your second go round with this problem, please clarify some things,
Did you do the head gaskets?
Are you using an electronic gauge?
You have a stock fan/clutch and if it has resistance, cold, than it is likely ok, 1/4 turn, stop, it's good.
Yeah before I couldn't get it to hear up it ended up being there was no thermostat in the housing. Now I put the thermostat in this is happening. Yes I'm using a glowshift water temp gauge. When I just spun it it was warm and did 1/4 of a turn?
 
Do you have underdrive pulleys? Is the air deflector under the car still there? Have you purged the cooling system? You said the lower hose has a slit in it, so your cooling system can't build pressure allowing the coolant to boil. Get the leaks fixed, purge the cooling system of air, test or replace your radiator cap, etc.
I'm not sure if it has the deflector. Is it the black piece that hangs in the middle? If so I don't have that?
 
A few folks use the deflector for a Ford ranger a91what did the mod to his car. People say it really helps.

When the car is warm the fan should be pulling pretty hard. That fan clutch is probably almost 30 years old....a new one couldn't hurt. They aren't real expensive.
 
Yes, that is the stock fan. Should move plenty of air so I don't see the need to change to an E-fan until this issue is solved.

New radiator, stock fan, new coolant. What's your mix? 100% coolant? or 50/50? or is it a premixed coolant?

Where are you hooking up the water temp guage to?