I cant seem to figure it out. The car idles terribly and sounds like its runing on three cylinders. I stumble through first, then second smooths out. The car runs great in third. Then fifth gear the engine stumbles occasionally. I changed the plugs, wires, and dist. cap and rotor. Checked the distributor to make sure the hold down bolt did not come loose. Nothing seems to help. I dont think it is mechanical, because the car runs on all cylinders in third and fourth gear. I did pull the engine codes. I came up with 22, 35, 51, 53, 54. This is a mass air car so i checked the hoses going to the air filter, no problems. The map sensor which i think is the little black box on the firewall, (im not sure) Was hooked up electrically but the vac line was never hooked up. And i never had a problem with this before. I checked to make sure the vac lines did not become disconnected from the egr (ok there). The tps i tried checking with a voltmeter several months ago, but could not get a reading below 12 volts, which i know it is not the right reading, but the car ran just fine. The car was a basket case electically when i bought it, and half of the vacuum lines were disconnected, but i fixed all of that, ran great for the past year now this is happening. 
89 5.0 Misfiring badly
- Thread starter Hoffman
- Start date
It sounds like you have a few opens so either there are some cut/pinched wires somewhere or your having bad connections because the EGR position sensor, coolant temp sensor, intake air temp sensor. and throttle position sensor are all open. That would make it run like crap.
Hoffman said:
I doubt it unless the battery's ground side is bad. MAP sensors arn't required on MAF cars, they no longer use it.
Well, I checked the tps and the egr sensors. They both have continuity on the sig rtn line but i cannot find the coolant temp sensor and the intake air temp sensor. Where are they located on the engine? If i cannot get cont. beween all for of these sensors on the sig. rtn. line then i will know what the problem is. If not then i have no idea...
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Code 22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range. The MAP or BARO sensor is pretty much the same sensor for both Mass Air & Speed Density cars. The main difference is where it is connected. Mass Air cars vent it to the atmosphere, while Speed Density cars connect it to the intake manifold vacuum. Its purpose is to help set a baseline for the air/fuel mixture and changes in barometric pressure. The MAP or BAP sensor puts out a 5 volt square wave that changes frequency with variations in atmospheric pressure. The base is 154 HZ at 29.92" of mercury - dry sunny day at sea level, about 68-72 degrees. You need an oscilloscope or frequency meter to measure it.
Baro or MAP test using frequency meter - run the test key on engine off. The noise from the ignition system will likely upset the frequency meter. I used a 10 x oscilloscope probe connected from the frequency meter to the MAP/BAP to reduce the jitter in the meter's readout.
If it is defective, your air/fuel ratio will be off and the car’s performance & emissions will suffer
Code 35 EVR - EVP sensor signal is/was high – Bad sensor, or possible missing ground for EVR circuit. With the power off, measure the resistance between the black wire and battery ground. You should see less than 1 ohm. Check the same black wire on the EGR and MAP sensor. More than 1 ohm there and the wire is probably broken in the harness between the engine and the computer. The 10 pin connectors pass the black wire back to the computer, and can cause problems.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif
See http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=6 for more wiring help & 10 pin connector diagrams
Code 51 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor signal is/was too high - Possible bad ECT sensor, or wiring.
Use Pin 46 on the computer for ground for both ECT & ACT to get most accurate readings.
Pin 7 on the computer - ECT signal in. at 176 degrees F it should be .80 volts
Voltages may be measured across the ECT by probing the connector from the rear. Use care in doing it so that you don't damage the wiring or connector.
Here's the table :
68 degrees F = 3.02 v
86 degrees F = 2.62 v
104 degrees F = 2.16 v
122 degrees F = 1.72 v
140 degrees F = 1.35 v
158 degrees F = 1.04 v
176 degrees F = .80 v
194 degrees F = .61
Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter.
Ohms measures at the computer with the computer disconnected, or at the sensor with the sensor disconnected.
50 degrees F = 58.75 K ohms
68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms
86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms
104 degrees F = 16.15 K ohms
122 degrees F = 10.97 K ohms
140 degrees F = 7.60 K ohms
158 degrees F = 5.37 K ohms
176 degrees F = 3.84 K ohms
194 degrees F = 2.80 K ohms
Code 53 - Throttle Position sensor too high – TPS – TPS out of adjustment, bad connections, missing signal ground, bad sensor.
Here’s a TPS tip I got from NoGo50…
When you installed the sensor make sure you place it on the peg right and then tighten it down properly. Loosen the back screw a tiny bit so the sensor can pivot and loosen the front screw enough so you can move it just a little in very small increments. I wouldn’t try to adjust it using marks. Set it at .97v-.99v, the closer to .99v the better. Just don’t go over .99, or you upset the fuel calibration and idle quality will suffer.
(copied from MustangMax, Glendale AZ)
1. Always adjust the TPS and Idle with the engine at operating temp. Dive it around for a bit if you can and get it nice and warm.
2. When you probe the leads of the TPS, do not use an engine ground, put the ground probe into the lead of the TPS. You should be connecting both meter probes to the TPS and not one to the TPS and the other to ground.
3. Always reset the computer whenever you adjust the TPS or clean/change any sensors. I just pull the battery lead for 10 minutes.
4. Check the procedure for your year, on my 90 I have to turn the idle screw until it just touches the tab, then insert a .010 feeler gauge and give it about one more turn. Then you adjust the TPS voltage to .98v, reset the computer. Start it up, if the idle is to low then turn the screw in until it is just right, then readjust the TPS voltage to .98v and reset the computer and start it up. The key is to adjust the TPS voltage and reset the computer whenever the idle screw is changed.
Check the black/white wire resistance. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the black/white wire on the TPS and one lead to the negative post on the battery. You should see less than .5 ohm, more than that indicates a problem. Always take resistance measurements with the circuit powered off.
Clean the 10 pin salt & pepper shaker connectors.
.
Code 54 – ACT sensor out of range. Broken or damaged wiring, bad ACT sensor. Note that that if the outside air temp is below 50 degrees F that the test for the ACT can be in error.
Check the resistance of the black/white wire to battery ground. If it is less than 1 ohm, it is good. If it is more than 1 ohm, the black/white wire has bad connections or a broken wire. Always take resistance measurements with the circuit powered off.
Then check the resistance of the ACT sender located in the #5 intake runner on most 5.0 stangs.
ACT & ECT test data:
The ACT & ECT have the same thermistor, so the table values are the same
Pin 7 on the computer - ECT signal in. at 176 degrees F it should be .80 volts
Pin 25 on the computer - ACT signal in. at 50 degrees F it should be 3.5 volts. It is a good number if the ACT is mounted in the inlet airbox. If it is mounted in the lower intake manifold, the voltage readings will be lower because of the heat transfer. Here's the table :
68 degrees F = 3.02 v
86 degrees F = 2.62 v
104 degrees F = 2.16 v
122 degrees F = 1.72 v
140 degrees F = 1.35 v
158 degrees F = 1.04 v
176 degrees F = .80 v
194 degrees F = .61
Ohms measures at the computer with the computer disconnected, or at the sensor with the sensor disconnected.
50 degrees F = 58.75 K ohms
68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms
86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms
104 degrees F = 16.15 K ohms
122 degrees F = 10.97 K ohms
140 degrees F = 7.60 K ohms
158 degrees F = 5.37 K ohms
176 degrees F = 3.84 K ohms
194 degrees F = 2.80 K ohms
With the the power off, check the black/wihite signal ground wire resistance between any of the sensors and the negative battery post. The collection of sensor failure codes point to a bad sensor signal ground.
Baro or MAP test using frequency meter - run the test key on engine off. The noise from the ignition system will likely upset the frequency meter. I used a 10 x oscilloscope probe connected from the frequency meter to the MAP/BAP to reduce the jitter in the meter's readout.
If it is defective, your air/fuel ratio will be off and the car’s performance & emissions will suffer
Code 35 EVR - EVP sensor signal is/was high – Bad sensor, or possible missing ground for EVR circuit. With the power off, measure the resistance between the black wire and battery ground. You should see less than 1 ohm. Check the same black wire on the EGR and MAP sensor. More than 1 ohm there and the wire is probably broken in the harness between the engine and the computer. The 10 pin connectors pass the black wire back to the computer, and can cause problems.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif
See http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=6 for more wiring help & 10 pin connector diagrams
Code 51 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor signal is/was too high - Possible bad ECT sensor, or wiring.
Use Pin 46 on the computer for ground for both ECT & ACT to get most accurate readings.
Pin 7 on the computer - ECT signal in. at 176 degrees F it should be .80 volts
Voltages may be measured across the ECT by probing the connector from the rear. Use care in doing it so that you don't damage the wiring or connector.
Here's the table :
68 degrees F = 3.02 v
86 degrees F = 2.62 v
104 degrees F = 2.16 v
122 degrees F = 1.72 v
140 degrees F = 1.35 v
158 degrees F = 1.04 v
176 degrees F = .80 v
194 degrees F = .61
Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter.
Ohms measures at the computer with the computer disconnected, or at the sensor with the sensor disconnected.
50 degrees F = 58.75 K ohms
68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms
86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms
104 degrees F = 16.15 K ohms
122 degrees F = 10.97 K ohms
140 degrees F = 7.60 K ohms
158 degrees F = 5.37 K ohms
176 degrees F = 3.84 K ohms
194 degrees F = 2.80 K ohms
Code 53 - Throttle Position sensor too high – TPS – TPS out of adjustment, bad connections, missing signal ground, bad sensor.
Here’s a TPS tip I got from NoGo50…
When you installed the sensor make sure you place it on the peg right and then tighten it down properly. Loosen the back screw a tiny bit so the sensor can pivot and loosen the front screw enough so you can move it just a little in very small increments. I wouldn’t try to adjust it using marks. Set it at .97v-.99v, the closer to .99v the better. Just don’t go over .99, or you upset the fuel calibration and idle quality will suffer.
(copied from MustangMax, Glendale AZ)
1. Always adjust the TPS and Idle with the engine at operating temp. Dive it around for a bit if you can and get it nice and warm.
2. When you probe the leads of the TPS, do not use an engine ground, put the ground probe into the lead of the TPS. You should be connecting both meter probes to the TPS and not one to the TPS and the other to ground.
3. Always reset the computer whenever you adjust the TPS or clean/change any sensors. I just pull the battery lead for 10 minutes.
4. Check the procedure for your year, on my 90 I have to turn the idle screw until it just touches the tab, then insert a .010 feeler gauge and give it about one more turn. Then you adjust the TPS voltage to .98v, reset the computer. Start it up, if the idle is to low then turn the screw in until it is just right, then readjust the TPS voltage to .98v and reset the computer and start it up. The key is to adjust the TPS voltage and reset the computer whenever the idle screw is changed.
Check the black/white wire resistance. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the black/white wire on the TPS and one lead to the negative post on the battery. You should see less than .5 ohm, more than that indicates a problem. Always take resistance measurements with the circuit powered off.
Clean the 10 pin salt & pepper shaker connectors.
Code 54 – ACT sensor out of range. Broken or damaged wiring, bad ACT sensor. Note that that if the outside air temp is below 50 degrees F that the test for the ACT can be in error.
Check the resistance of the black/white wire to battery ground. If it is less than 1 ohm, it is good. If it is more than 1 ohm, the black/white wire has bad connections or a broken wire. Always take resistance measurements with the circuit powered off.
Then check the resistance of the ACT sender located in the #5 intake runner on most 5.0 stangs.
ACT & ECT test data:
The ACT & ECT have the same thermistor, so the table values are the same
Pin 7 on the computer - ECT signal in. at 176 degrees F it should be .80 volts
Pin 25 on the computer - ACT signal in. at 50 degrees F it should be 3.5 volts. It is a good number if the ACT is mounted in the inlet airbox. If it is mounted in the lower intake manifold, the voltage readings will be lower because of the heat transfer. Here's the table :
68 degrees F = 3.02 v
86 degrees F = 2.62 v
104 degrees F = 2.16 v
122 degrees F = 1.72 v
140 degrees F = 1.35 v
158 degrees F = 1.04 v
176 degrees F = .80 v
194 degrees F = .61
Ohms measures at the computer with the computer disconnected, or at the sensor with the sensor disconnected.
50 degrees F = 58.75 K ohms
68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms
86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms
104 degrees F = 16.15 K ohms
122 degrees F = 10.97 K ohms
140 degrees F = 7.60 K ohms
158 degrees F = 5.37 K ohms
176 degrees F = 3.84 K ohms
194 degrees F = 2.80 K ohms
With the the power off, check the black/wihite signal ground wire resistance between any of the sensors and the negative battery post. The collection of sensor failure codes point to a bad sensor signal ground.
Well I checked the resistance of the sig rtn lines on the sensors and I got as follows 1.22k on the tps, 1.29k on the egr, and 1.99k on the map. So i think it is safe to say that the sig rtn line has a break in it. My meter has an audible tone that buzzes when there is continuity, when i checked these lines with the battery ground there was no buzz.
Does the sig rtn line run straight back to the comp. then straight to comp. ground? If so I'll check the computer ground also, but i did find continuity between the black wire on the maf when connected to battery ground. Thanks for the help..
Does the sig rtn line run straight back to the comp. then straight to comp. ground? If so I'll check the computer ground also, but i did find continuity between the black wire on the maf when connected to battery ground. Thanks for the help..
Well i checked the resitance between the sig rtn line and the ground, that failed. I then checked the resistance between the sensors and the computer, all came up less than 1 ohm. So i checked for continuity between the two ground pins on the ecu harness. That checked out fine but i haven't been able to confirm if the computer is actually grounded? Where do those two grounds run to?
I checked a few other things while i was at it. I checked the fuel pressure at the schrader valve. The pressure was at 2 psi after the pump primed for two seconds. I jumped the test line to the ground and the pressure shot up to 40 psi. This I know is fine so i checked the pressure at idle. The pressure stayed at 40 psi, but droped 10 psi when i tapped the throttle up to 2000 rpm. Is this normal?
I checked a few other things while i was at it. I checked the fuel pressure at the schrader valve. The pressure was at 2 psi after the pump primed for two seconds. I jumped the test line to the ground and the pressure shot up to 40 psi. This I know is fine so i checked the pressure at idle. The pressure stayed at 40 psi, but droped 10 psi when i tapped the throttle up to 2000 rpm. Is this normal?
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