89' w/Turbonetics 7668 & MSPNP2

Hoopty

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Jan 29, 2019
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Hey all,

Just got my PoS up and running with a turbonetics 7668 and MSPNP2. I used the base file from DIYAutoTune to get it fired and adjusted the fuel injector size. Tonight I finally got the Boost controller and wideband wired up and running (wideband verified at least). I'm ready to start learning to tune and get started in the right direction. I got a datalog tonight so hoping I can get some insight on the startup and idle.

I'll start with the basics of the car:

89 Foxbody
MSPNP2
Unknown miles 302 block (possibly 70's era per the stamps)
D8 heads w/dual valve springs
E303 Cam
Turbonetics 7668 Journal Bearing Turbo
42 lb injectors
Pro Comp Victor Jr/Edelbrock Upper intake
AMP EFI boost controller on Turbonetics WG & 9lb spring
Zeitronix ZT-2 wideband
Wiring harness modified to delete all emissions/AC parts
Colorado based car (~6,000 ft ASL)

I captured a cold-ish start datalog which is attached. At idle it is super rich, and while the wideband eventually starts reading, it goes through a period where it reads 19+, and then comes down to a normal reading. I dinked around with the accel enrichment and VE1 tables per the documentation to see if it affected the idle AFR but no go. Still lots of fuel at idle. What am I missing here?

Thanks in advance!
Bob
 

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a91what

SendMeUrDataLog
Mod Dude
Apr 6, 2011
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Looks like a few things are amiss...

The MAT sensor [IAT] looks like it is not reporting correctly it jumps from 75* to 358* The ECU uses the MAT reading to calculate the fuel load in the SD algorithm. this is really important to get fixed pronto.

Just to be sure, you did calibrate all the sensors including the WB O2 in the tools menu at the top of the TS page yes??
 

Hoopty

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Jan 29, 2019
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I’ll look at the IAT sensor and check my wiring. As for the calibrations I set my wideband to the zeitronix default and then the tps. ill Go through the other menus and verify everything.
 

Hoopty

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Jan 29, 2019
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So I got a chance to look at the calibrations and the Coolant and IAT were both set to custom. I moved them both to ford. For the IAT, it did the same thing as in the log, but this time it spiked to 300+ and then slowly came down to sub 200 and was still moving down when i called it quits. Before that I did try changing the sensor type in calibrations, and it just changed the temperature, and not the way it was acting. I unplugged the sensor and it made no difference. Still read the same. Plugged in another sensor I had laying around, no difference. To clarify I have a picture attached of the sensor and plug im messing with to verify im in the correct area...

As for the other cals, everything looks ok. I have the Zeitronix set to the non-linear setting. I made the Baro and MAP sensor match (MPX6400) persome light research....

Edit...Looking at Zeitronix's website it looks like the MS presets for the WB are not correct. Gonna enter them per the website as a custom WB
Double Edit, Now the MS gauges don't match the Zeitronix guage, so I'm gonna assume I have an older Non-linear ZT 2 and stick with the included MS cal
 

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a91what

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I would do a continuity check with the ecu unplugged, the salt and pepper shakers may need to be cleaned and the pins spread. use dielectric grease on the connections.
 
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Hoopty

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Ok. Did the continuity check and both the signal wire and signal ground are in tact. Took apart the salt and pepper connectors and cleaned them. They were pretty nasty with some old grease on em. Also, they were a bitch to get apart. Regrounded the o2 sensor at the ecu ground by the battery.

and....

While it starts a hair quicker and idles a little better, the temp sensor is still wonky, although the temp fell much quicker. Got two logs. Let me know what you think. I'm comparing them with my first log on my end. If I can't figure this out I might start looking at an aftermarket alternative.

Also, this weekend I'm going to go in and re-verify my timing. Question on that front. When I set it to fixed timing and verify the balancer matches the input value, is it ok to turn the dizzy to get it to match vs the trigger offset? Thanks!
 

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a91what

SendMeUrDataLog
Mod Dude
Apr 6, 2011
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so good continuity huh... still does not look right.

few things to try... its just a resistance based sensor so if you go KOEO and short the pins together on the IAT sensor the signal should go full HOT

if it does then the wiring is good... once that is done plug the sensor back in and go into the tools menu and select calibrate thermistor both of them are going to have the same value... if you do the quick selection of the FORD values for the IAT [MAT] sensor and you get no change then try the values below, as a last resort do a GM standard value.

These are the ones i use, I do manual entry.
50* ----- 58750
176* ----- 3840
230* ---- 1550
 
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Hoopty

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No dice. Jumping the connector did nothing. It still jumped to ~350 at key on, and then steadily dropped to 160 and hovered. Plugging and unplugging things didn't even make the needle jump. Changing the calibrations changed the values as expected but there was still no reaction to jumping/unplugging. Could this be an issue with the PCB of the MSPNP? The only other thing that I could think that might possibly play an issue is that I depinned the majority of the options connector save for what I need (EGO/Boost Ctrl/Sensor Gnd/Chassis Gnd/.5A power). I cant imagine it has any play here as its all optional. My next ideas are to 1. buy a GM IAT and wire it into the options or 2. open the case and check for a bad PCB.
 

a91what

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For the GM iat? Can’t just wire it to options?
You should have had a bag of jumpers that came with the MS2pnp that need to be put in, unless they started doing that at DIY....

The GM iat can be wired into the options port yes, I would check and make sure you do not have something shorted out... If you unplug the options plug does the IAT start to read normally??

 
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Hoopty

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Got it. I bought this second hand from a guy who had it in his supercharged 331so I didn’t get any of those. Is there a tutorial on how to open the case? It won’t budge lol
 

Hoopty

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Jan 29, 2019
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Well I wired in the GM sensor right before the throttle body. Re-pinned #20 on the options connector and spliced the signal ground. Calibrated the PNP2 to the GM sensor option and it's still doing the same thing. This is concerning lol. I disconnected the options port and got nothing different. Looked at a log from back in october when I installed the PNP2 before the motor refresh and the wiring harness modifications and the MAT looked to act normally. The only things I removed were the emissions, AC pieces, and MAF. I terminated them and wrapped them up. The wiring diagram doesn't lead me to believe those would interfere with the MAT.

Is there a way for the PNP2 to differentiate between the OE sensor and the new GM i wired into the options port, or is there some way "activate" the new one?
 

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a91what

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you can try reloading the firmware, otherwise you will need to contact DIY to see if they have a solution.. the IAT goes into the white microsquirt board so there is really nothing for me to have you check.
 
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Hoopty

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I’ll do that and then I’m gonna remove the IAT wire from the ECM connector to verify there isn’t some sort of short in the wire.

Thanks for the troubleshooting advice this far.
 

Hoopty

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Jan 29, 2019
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Still going at this troubleshooting. Emailing DIYPNP wasn't a ton of help but they offered a few steps. I ended up swapping out the engine main harness and reloading firmware 3.4.2. and no changes to what the MAT is reading. I measured voltage at the connector to ground and it's seeing 0v with KOEO. I swapped the stock ecu over and I got .65v with it. Resistance at the wire is .1 ohm. Checked some other connectors and I'm seeing voltage at those. Guess I'm gonna have to send the ECU in for some diagnostics.
 

Hoopty

Member
Jan 29, 2019
33
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32
Colorado
Well just got verification the the PNP2 had a damaged IAT circuit. It's getting shipped back to me and hopefully I can get back at it this weekend.
 
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