90 Mustang 3-2 port p/v conversion questions

OK - I was able to locate all of the fittings described in Matt Bobbit's diagram and piece together the 3-2 conversion. I found everything at a pretty well stocked hardware (S&W Hardware in Plymouth MI) and short of it being in brass, it's exactly the same as the $30.00 kit sold through Maximum Motorsports for about $13.00. I scored the M-2450-A plug at Dallas Mustang (for $7.99 - $15.00 for shipping "You can pay me now or pay me later") so that should be arriving this week. Thanks again for all the input contributed to this conversion, I'm very greatful!!
Best Regards

Peter B


Be careful with the M-2450-A Plug as Ford Racing had a batch go out with the wrong thread pitch and will not work. The Good Ones are Brass Color and work perfect and the bad ones if I remember correct are Steel colored.
 
Thread sizes

The thread sizes are 1/8 in. Brass tee (#103-2) and 1/8 brass coupling (#902) - between those and two other miscellaneous metric to inch fittings, it all seemed to go together pretty easily. Hopefully, I won't need to amend that statement after its on the road & running. It doesn't look like art but I don't believe it will stand out after the engine bay is fully populated.
Regards
 

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One question on this topic - Why is it necessary to replace the old plug with a new brass plug on the stock proportioning valve, after you gut it? I just did a disc brake conversion on my 90 LX and I simply put the stock plug back in, which doesn't leak. I used the SSBC kit and I don't recall any thing saying to use another plug. Other than stripping or damaging the original plug, I'm not sure I see why is can't be reused. I am having a few break in issues, and want to eliminate any factors - Thanks
 
TRU 5.0 read my mind, i have been wondering the same thing as i am planning to do 3 of these conversions... with no other input but i works for you i am going to go for it as well.
 
No to revive this, but i now have an SN95 prop valve

It looks identical except it contains a 3rd port at the rear.

So, like the OP suggested, can you gut it like the Fox prop valve and then run the 3rd line to the rear of the valve so you do not need a 3-2 conversion?

I'm trying to clean my fox setupup, but unsure if the threading of the Fox 3rd line is the same as the 3rd port on the PV
 
I don't see why not...

The SN95 valve will have different bias to the front though no? will it matter? I know you gut the fox one and run the adjuster for the rear.

I guess now that i really think about it i don't see why it would really matter?
 
I don't see why not...

The SN95 valve will have different bias to the front though no? will it matter? I know you gut the fox one and run the adjuster for the rear.

I guess now that i really think about it i don't see why it would really matter?

Yes but the intent is to gut the SN95 prop valve like the fox prop valve.

It just all depends on if the Fox 3rd line is the same thread pitch and dia. as the 3rd port on the SN95 prop valve.



If anything, i would choose to run an adjustable unit over a factory prop valve anyday. The proportioning is setup for 225 series tires

If you put 275's or larger in the rear, you have more meat on the road and more traction and can dial in more rear brake bias (within safe limits of course)