rsw007
New Member
converter size, fin angles, the amount of torque multiplacation.mine was built with 3:1 torque multipaction due to the fact i run sticky tires all the time. whats yours?willys1 said:
90 Mustang 5.0 AOD
- Thread starter tross
- Start date
crazypete
All my crevices are greased.
This "cheap" tci streefighter feels solid as a rock. Rolls away at idle and you NEED brakes to hold it at a light. That sounds good to me. I guess not all converters are created equal. If in doubt, just get the streetfighter. It's only $300 and holds up royally.
willys1
Active Member
I believe the torque multiplication is something like 2.56:1,,,,I cant remember the exact figure,I will look it up.rsw007 said:
willys1
Active Member
You have to be careful if its an everyday driver.When it comes to converters you get what you pay for.crazypete said:
crazypete
All my crevices are greased.
Well, my car is ultra-light. Last night, I just finished stripping the floorpan and dremeling off useless brackets and bits of metal and wires. Reducing the car to 2500 (2600?) pounds really helps one get away with a lot of stuff. "Cheap" components that usually fail with heavier vehicles last forever when pushing around a light car...especially if it has super high (4.56) gears that further mask the bodyweight. I recommend this to everyone because:
1. it's free
2. Lets you buy cheap components and get away with using them.
=)
With stock wieght, the streetfighter might not be your best choice but it was for me.
1. it's free
2. Lets you buy cheap components and get away with using them.
=)
With stock wieght, the streetfighter might not be your best choice but it was for me.
willys1
Active Member
crazypete
All my crevices are greased.
Well, I bathroom scaled everything I took off and it added up to 400 pounds. Then I put in an automatic +100 or so pounds then I pulled crazy more stuff off the car (at least half as much as the first time around but I got tired of weighing everything) so it's about 450-500 off curb. There's a lot of discrepency in the threads about the curb weight of GT's...some say 3500 range and some say 3000 range. I chose 3000 cause I like that number better 
and subtracted 500 pounds. So I guess I talking from my posterior until I get it actually wieghed somewhere (where can one do this?). All things considered though, it's MUCH MUCH lighter than the original setup. I mean the nose was in the air before the dropsprings.
Word.
and subtracted 500 pounds. So I guess I talking from my posterior until I get it actually wieghed somewhere (where can one do this?). All things considered though, it's MUCH MUCH lighter than the original setup. I mean the nose was in the air before the dropsprings. Word.
3K stall is fine for a stock motor. RSW and I are both running one and the best part, if you do any other mods in the future, you can probably get away without having to buy another converter right away. The Edge converters pull away like stock. Release the brakes and the car moves. Might need a hundred or more rpms to get it really moving. No problems at all with that setup.
willys1
Active Member
Bring it to a dump,they have full scales there.Get it wieghed with you out of the car,,if there cool they wont charge you anything!!crazypete said:Well, I bathroom scaled everything I took off and it added up to 400 pounds. Then I put in an automatic +100 or so pounds then I pulled crazy more stuff off the car (at least half as much as the first time around but I got tired of weighing everything) so it's about 450-500 off curb. There's a lot of discrepency in the threads about the curb weight of GT's...some say 3500 range and some say 3000 range. I chose 3000 cause I like that number better
Word.
willys1
Active Member
Well I guess you guys are rite and everyone else in the world is wrong!! RSW's stang is not exactly all stock!!! I dont know you so I cant say anything about your stang.davs5.0 said:
Willys, no problem. Alot of guys fear the stall number. the difference between your 2800 and my 3000 is too small to even notice. What would you suggest for a stall for a stock car? 2500 is not much better than he'd get from his stock converter. When I installed my converter and some sticky tires (definately needed them) I lopped off well over 1 second in ET. Almost 1.5 secs. All with stock heads, cam, intake, a/c and every option ford makes. No trick suspension mods (all original shocks and springs in the car) The biggest problem was the lockup. I could have knocked off more time if I'd gone non-lockup.
and don't forget, how long is he going to keep his car stock? I had a lot of fun running 13's for so little money.
and don't forget, how long is he going to keep his car stock? I had a lot of fun running 13's for so little money.
sn9550
Founding Member
I agree with the others. Gears, valve body/shift kit, and converter. These mods will make it a whole new car!
willys1
Active Member
When I was ordering my conv. from Precision,they said the same thing 2800,,3000,,no real difference.But a 2400 compared to a stock is a huge difference!! The stock conv. stall is about 1800,and the torque multiplication is like 1.91:1davs5.0 said:
The guy who does my tranny,and gear work(hes been drag racing for 40 years) has told me time,,and time again to change my cam because the stall speed is to high and the converter is loose!! Actually I like the feeling,,but I do admit its loose. Gaining a full second from a converter is awsome 
I gained 7 tenths!! It is by far the best mod I ever did on my stang.Dont get me wrong,Ive seen RSW's stang,I love the stance,and the color,plus the fact he runs a 13 flat with an aod I guess a little looseness in a conv. can be lived with.But if it wasnt loose I think it would perform even better 
