90 stang w/ Lcpl Pay build advise needed

[Iyzak]

well i got my 90 mustang for 1k
put Heddman Long Tubes and Electric Fan in
next upgrade is 4.10 gears
and thats about where my knowledge stops........

I would perfer to buy new and stay away from ebay name brands
on Ebay theres the Pro Comp Heads for $650ish any word on these
or
Should i do something more like the Edelbrock E-street heads $930
Edelbrock 5023 - Edelbrock E-Street Cylinder Heads - Overview - SummitRacing.com

It seems that the favorite cam is the TFS ones for a budget build
Which ones should i go with everyone just says stage 1 WTF is stage 1 I want somehting aggersive! whats everything i'm going to need?

Intake I'm thinking I wana go carb. seems to be cheaper
I've read countless number of threads on this "EFI vs Carb"
and carb seems to be more down my alley, not worried about gas milage, also not worried about adding any forced introduction of any sort

Trying to make a weekend driver with 325-350hp Ac/Heat/power everything
although I want to switch to Manual Windows and Doors like that look alot more

right now i'm on the lotta rice/ roman noodles diet putting together this car :OT: and i'm happy as hell but this is kinda a budget build but i don't wana go cheap if that makes sense

 

[rdharper02]

Its all up to you. Budget is one thing, but even a 900 dollar set of heads have a greater set of costs in the long run. Add an intake, new cam, lifters, pushrods and your talking a pretty penny. Honestly dont know too many "budget" options for the power your looking at. If your looking at the 300 hp area, you can do the true budget build utilizing junkyard parts. The gt40 heads from an explorer are steel copies of the ones on a 1993 Cobra, the intake from the same vehicle is a cast copy from a tubular gt40 setup (I found both at the local pick and pull for under $200). A decent cam and you are in the 300 hp relm. A bit of nitrous and your within your power goals. Look around (search) for proven combos (then add a few hundred) and bounce them off your budget. If your mechanically enclined, youll save a bunch, if you have to pay its more out of your pocket. Talk to the hobby shop guys if you are in between.

A bit of advice: A light 300 hp car is a heck of a lot of fun and (if set up right) can be a reliable daily driver. Its great to say you are in the high 3s or even 5's (for hp) but theres added tax on the driveline, motor and every other component. My turbo car puts out good power and has an insane amount of torque, but is only reliable due to the added money in the car. my other car has a similar drive train, but only puts out 311 to the rear wheels with some expensive heads, cam and intake. I could of accomplished a much more reliable, lower maintenance, setup with the gt40 stuff and had within 25 horses with the gt40 set up. Even better, I could have saved thousands.

 

[jrichker]

Since it is the Christmas season, I will spare you my usual negative rant about EFI to carb conversions. Consider it my Christmas gift to a newbie.

Unless you are a carb expert, can take apart any carb, overhaul it, put it back together and make the adjustments, avoid them. I have worked on both carb & EFI, and the EFI on both Mustangs was/is more reliable and better running than any of the Olds/Chevy carb cars I have owned and driven.

You have a working EFI, stay with it. Just because you may not understand the electrical part, don't let that chase you away. A carb is not just a hunk of metal with a couple of toilet bowl floats hooked up to a fuel line. There is a lot of small parts and even smaller passage ways that supply and control the fuel flow.

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - 10.5" vented disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Uses the stock 4 bolt lug pattern. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should or if you have an electric fan. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it - about $25- $50 for the wire, fuse holder and fuse.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.

Aluminum driveshaft: (courtesy of shawn13) It needs to be from a 92-95 AeroStar AWD or Electric 4 wheel drive. It measures 45 ½” center of the front U-joint to center of the rear U-joint. You will need the U-joint, part #PUJ353 from NAPA. The Canadian NAPA pat number is 1-0134BF. It should bolt right up after the U-joint swap.

bhuff30b’s input: However, no information was given for the 96-97 AWD aerostar driveshaft. I picked up one of these this weekend, for about 20$ from the local scrap yard. It already has the proper 27/28 spline yoke and needs no modification to install on a mustang. Also, the ends are securely welded on, as opposed to previous driveshafts which were pressed on. I'm not sure if the 92-95 driveshaft is pressed or welded though.

Note: This driveshaft is not an exact duplicate of the Ford Racing part. It is 3” in diameter while the Ford Racing part is 3.5” in diameter.

*1.) Metal flange adapter Kurtz Kustomz Motorsports, Inc. KKM Buy the TR70 for $44.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.
Try AutoZone and ask for 81413 - Spectre / 3 in. Aluminum Intake Mass Air Flow Sensor Adapter at $12.00. You may have to order it online.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1994-95 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1992-94 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-95 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1992-94 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1992-94 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.