90mm Lightning MAF

Go to #7 on the surging idle checklist.
I'm tracking with that checklist.

I can't duplicate the issue, essentially a 5-8 second limp mode where the car stutters during acceleration and pops. I'm narrowing it down to the MAF.
 
That sounds like it’s time to clean the connectors and use dielectric grease on them. Then see if you can recreate a problem by wiggling wires.
How have you decided this is the MAF instead of the TPS or ten pin connector or PIP?
 
That sounds like it’s time to clean the connectors and use dielectric grease on them. Then see if you can recreate a problem by wiggling wires.
How have you decided this is the MAF instead of the TPS or ten pin connector or PIP?
I've already cleaned the salt and pepper connectors and applied dialectic grease. The car was tuned so that addresses the TPS. I've cleaned the MAF in the past and have run through all the typical "tune-up" stuff.

There are no clear cut clues due to weather, immediately after fuel full up, surging, etc, but I do think it's sensor related due to the popping, hesitation and then it goes away. Almost O2 sensor like, but I've swapped those out.
 
My tuner swears the '99-'04 Lightning's 90mm MAF sensor is the best one for tuned vehicles. Other than Ebay, is there any legit place to find one? Buyer beware is the phrase of the day with that site. Thanks

Sorry I didn't see this sooner. The Lightning MAFs have been used quite a bit, and if that's what your tuner prefers to use, then that is what you should probably get. The reason a lot of tuners prefer the Lightning MAF is because they are sloppy, and easier to tune with. It's a factory meter that just kind of gets the air flow in the ballpark. If the car runs good with the Lightning MAF, don't mess with it. The Pro-M and PMAS meters are definitely better meters though. A good tuner that is trying to squeeze every last bit out of the engine is going to insist on a higher quality meter though.

Kurt
 
Sorry I didn't see this sooner. The Lightning MAFs have been used quite a bit, and if that's what your tuner prefers to use, then that is what you should probably get. The reason a lot of tuners prefer the Lightning MAF is because they are sloppy, and easier to tune with. It's a factory meter that just kind of gets the air flow in the ballpark. If the car runs good with the Lightning MAF, don't mess with it. The Pro-M and PMAS meters are definitely better meters though. A good tuner that is trying to squeeze every last bit out of the engine is going to insist on a higher quality meter though.

Kurt
Good stuff. Thanks
 
So after reading the entire thread… what was the consensus? The reason I ask is because my mechanic “advisor” has purchased me a 90mm MAF and I’m really curious what size TB I need and where to relocate the IAT sensor…
 

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The size of your throttle body is completely dependent on your engine combination. My current setup is TF H/C/I and I run a Accufab 75mm which is perfect. I'm planning a Ford Racing Z2363 crate engine swap within the next year and will be going with a 90mm Accufab throttle body.
 
My tuner swears the '99-'04 Lightning's 90mm MAF sensor is the best one for tuned vehicles. Other than Ebay, is there any legit place to find one? Buyer beware is the phrase of the day with that site. Thanks
So I'm about to do a Vortech V3 for my 94 Cobra and leaning toward a Sct Ba 2600 and I'll need to buy a flange adapter and also the harness adapter. I saw someone selling a lighting meter with filter and adapter and I might get it but not sure. I'll get a good deal on the new Sct and new is about 269-299 and it's 200 for the used Lightning.

Just curious how trustworthy buying a used meter is as in chances it could be bad lol?? Thoughts ladies and gents.......
 
I never used the Lightning MAF sensor I bought. I ended up going with the Holley EFI Terminator X setup which doesn't use a MAF sensor. I have been very happy with the Terminator X.

To answer your question though, I received the Lightning sensor in good condition and don't see any negatives to utilizing Ebay to source parts.
 
I never used the Lightning MAF sensor I bought. I ended up going with the Holley EFI Terminator X setup which doesn't use a MAF sensor. I have been very happy with the Terminator X.

To answer your question though, I received the Lightning sensor in good condition and don't see any negatives to utilizing Ebay to source parts.
Do you have your meter for sale?
 
Unfortunately, no. I sold it some time ago.

Rereading some of my responses from 3 years ago within this thread, I've since installed the Z2363 crate engine and went with a 90mm Accufab.
I'm about to look up the specs on that engine because I was thinking about doing a crate and you know I don't know I mean I'll have to do some research on it and stuff but I can ask you how you like it and you know what's your setup with it you know give me the details you know intake you know and stuff naturally aspirated or blower? I'm about to do a vortec V3 not sure I said that earlier on one of the other Coast but yeah this engine has about 195 on it and I just want a little more pep so I'm going to send it and see what happens. The car is just a weekend driver street car nothing crazy so worst case if it blows up I'll just go ahead and build a stroker.

So yeah I don't know I'll likely probably do a dart maybe 347 or 363 Big bore what depends on what I hear from you and how you like it in the cost and everything I might consider doing something like that
 
Unfortunately, no. I sold it some time ago.

Rereading some of my responses from 3 years ago within this thread, I've since installed the Z2363 crate engine and went with a 90mm Accufab.
Actually I googled z2363 and your thread came up among some searches so I started reading up on it and I will probably read some more on it tomorrow but yeah that's something I would consider but I can probably have my guy build even with a dark block build a long block for around that for that crate engine
 
Actually I googled z2363 and your thread came up among some searches so I started reading up on it and I will probably read some more on it tomorrow but yeah that's something I would consider but I can probably have my guy build even with a dark block build a long block for around that for that crate engine
Here's my progress thread. I documented everything on here pretty thoroughly.

Progress Thread - 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build | Mustang Forums at StangNet https://share.google/EqAClBn8itQYsLRfk

Car currently makes 400/397. I'll be going with a Trick Flow Box R intake pretty soon. That should have been my first choice and is probably good for another 10 - 15 hp.
 
Here's my progress thread. I documented everything on here pretty thoroughly.

Progress Thread - 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build | Mustang Forums at StangNet https://share.google/EqAClBn8itQYsLRfk

Car currently makes 400/397. I'll be going with a Trick Flow Box R intake pretty soon. That should have been my first choice and is probably good for another 10 - 15 hp.
ok gotcha. I'll save the tab and take a look. I'll see how adding this blower to my higher mile 94 does. If and when it's time for an engine I'll likely either do a dart 347 or 363 or a crate.