91 Ford Motor 5.0 Build

shrtfnn

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Jul 3, 2019
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Hey guys

Here’s my 91 Ford Bronco motor 5.0 off-road build with an Ms3Pro Evo.

Vehicle: 1991 Ford Bronco 4x4
Engine: Ford Crate Motor 302 E303 Converted MAF Edlebrock RPM Performer upper / lower MSD coil / dizzy

I use to have an A9T that ran very well, passed smog and everything but it took a crapper. Long story short, I got a another used ECU and that was a waste of money. So now I purchased myself Ms3Pro Evo.

I’ve got it wired up according to installation manual using a DIYBOB 60 pin. Setup the basic configuration and now trying to fine tune. I’ve encountered some set backs. First, wiring problem. Second, I burnt up starter solenoid. Then, my starter sounds like its being over used and spinning. Now, since my base tune isn’t ideal tuned. I have a fuel leak from #1 exhaust. Yes, fuel is leaking out of my exhaust port thru the manifold gasket, literally. Hopefully, @a91what can take a look at my base tune and see if my tune is the problem. If not, I’ll be taking apart the uppers and check the fuel injectors.


Anyone have any other advice?
 
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a91what

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Mod Dude
Apr 6, 2011
8,625
5,048
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30
Hillsborough county
Ok so from your pinout i see nothing wrong with the way you have it wired. so lets rule that out for now.

I think you are just runnig really rich, there are a few fundamentals with tuning but most videos wont help you with MAF mode.. Luckily my car is tuned in MAF mode so i will give you a quick run down, there are two ways that you can adjust the fuel in a MAF based installation.

1. adjust the MAF curve itself - this is a bit tricky for the beginner but can be done basically you go in and adjust the g/sec that the dot is sitting on until the engine reaches the target AFR.

2. enable the VE1 as trim table- this is what i suggest for your installation, its pretty straightforward. Higher VE numbers = more fuel... lower VE numbers = less fuel. In this way the MAF install tunes like a SD install.

I am going to make an adjustment to the tune and send it back to you. LIkely you have fouled the plugs and a cylinder or two is not firing, this will allow raw fuel to make its way out of the engine... also check the oil, if it smells like gasoline [ likely it does ] change the oil before damage occurs.
you also need to replace the spark plugs and check the TPS sensor, it does not look like it is calibrated.

Do you understand Lambda values?? if you do not then the project file should be changed over to AFR as most people are more familiar with those values.
 

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shrtfnn

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Jul 3, 2019
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Thanks for the adjustment. I've loaded the tune with no success. I changed the oil and the plugs. It seems like the fuel injectors are running constantly and over fueling. Fuel can still be seen thru exhaust port #1. I tested the inj/spk in full seq. They all click in sequence. I tested the TPS. It tested fine.

As far as Lamda/AFR, I thought I was on AFR. Thanks for changing it.

Should I keep lowering the VE Table or check out the fuel injectors for flow test?
 

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a91what

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Mod Dude
Apr 6, 2011
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Sorry for not getting back with you, I would work on the VE table until the car seems to run better. You are looking for 13.9 to 14.7 on the wideband.. Your commanded PW at idle right now is so high that your flooding the engine.
I altered the MAF curve to reduce fueling, can you get me the part# off of the MAF so i can try and find the correct curve for you. also what kind of airbox is attached to the MAF? or is it a filter placed on the end?
 

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shrtfnn

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Jul 3, 2019
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No worries about getting back to me. We all have normal lives. I appreciate your help on this. F1ZF-12B579-AA it is a stock MAF from an 1989 LX Mustang. I have a cone K&N filter at the end of the MAF. Now, I don't exactly know the terminology for PW stands for..I can only guess "Pulse ????". Ok Can I go into the Idle control change the settings to "Closed Loop" instead of "Open Loop (warmup)"? Would this help?
I checked the injector spray. they were good. I put everything back together (making sure to swap #1 to #8) and started her up again with the same issue. I lowered the VE table in denomination of 10. Still spewing out fuel.
 

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a91what

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Mod Dude
Apr 6, 2011
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That mad is not designed to have a filter on the end of it, that affects the flow across the sensor. It's ok we just have to figure out what curve to use.
PW is pulse width or how long the injector is open.
 

a91what

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Mod Dude
Apr 6, 2011
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maybe some on the phone time is in order... PM me your # and we can talk later on tonight. I am east coast so ill call around 4pm your time.
 

shrtfnn

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Jul 3, 2019
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Oh man. I found my culprit. Bad pin connection at the DIYBOB for injector #1. It had 1.09 volt going to it. So I got it running and no spewing fuel. Thank God! But time for another oil change, avey! Here's the latest log files. My current issue is getting it around 13.9 - 14.1. I've kinda made some adjustments to the fuel mapload, which cause the RPM to go up. But on the throttle, it will almost die. Which probably means im giving it too much O2.

This is where I left off tonight.
 

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shrtfnn

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Jul 3, 2019
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Yes I have. I can do it again.

I’ve read somewhere...forgot where.. Do I need to unplug my IAC to get started on a stable idle first?
 

a91what

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No, but you can. There are 2 idle strategies "warm up" and closed loop. In warmup the idle valve just moves to a set position.

I ask about the O2 because in the last log file it shows you being full rich. 10AFR. At idle we want 14ish so i am wondering if your in car gauge is reading differently than the ECU.
That makes it hard for me to give proper advice