91 Fox Vert Tops

fredfifty said:

im putting in a used top/frame onto my 91 fox (actually already put in top/frame...now doin the little stuff). when putting in the hydraulic lines, it got kind of confusing. first, does it matter which t-fitting goes into the pump? there are 2, i dont know if its supposed to be on one side or the other. bad?

second, the hydraulic lines that run from the rams (upper/lower), the route? i dont want them to get pinched. (pics if you have em

)

third, teflon recommended after removing the fitting from the pump and rams, and putting them back in?fourth, since i removed the fittings, hydraulic fluid leaked out, so i will be adding. ATF fluid i heard is ok? is there a method to bleeding the system, or do you even have to

last, does anyody know what kind of glue/adhesive i would use to re-attach the vinyl to the rear window glass? it is seperating a little.

Click to expand...

This suggestion is courtesy of our member NOOBZ347. He posted it on the thread just above this one about possible upgrades to convt. tops.

Take your current top (if it's in good shape aside from the seams in the rear glass), mask it off with painter's tape and reseal it with the Permatex Black RTV that comes in the Cheezewiz can. I resealed my wife's 05 with that stuff last summer. So far, so good... went through all the seasons since with no leaks or separation of any kind.


As to the other items:
I will see if I can get a good pic inside my car to show the lines and routing.

I am certain some sort of bleeding will be necessary but how to do it I don't know - however what you find out will be of use to us all if we have to do it in the future on our cars.

ATF fluid in a convt. top motor - be certain before you do it. LMK if it is proper for my info. Teflon seems appropriate for sealing fittings.

EDIT:
On my top motor it says refill with type "A" TRANS FLUID.


I PULLED THIS INFO FROM ANOTHER CITE:

I just looked in my 2001 workshop manual, it's probably similar.
It says that in order to bleed the system it has to be "removed from the vehicle as an assembly".
Bummer, but that's what it says.
So, with it all on the shop floor, or a workbench, fill the pump with Dexron II or similar (not dexron 5 or 6) to the bottom of the fill hole. The diagram shows the pump laying flat, in it's operating position. Install the fill plug.
Quoting directly from the book:
"Note: Some noise squeal may be noticed due to air in the system.
Connect a 12 volt power source to the motor connector and operate the motor until the cylinders are fully extended.
Reverse the 12 volt connection to fully retract the cylinders. Repeat this procedure three times.
Remove the fill plug and add more fluid to bottom of the fill hole.
Install fill plug.
Install the hydraulic system in the vehicle."

OTHER COMMENTS:
Appreciate that but dang, removing it from the vehicle??? Wow there should be an easier way to do it other than that.

As we filled the pump with fluid, we started to raise the top up and down with the fill plug off and it started to burp (air maybe from system) and fluid started to ooze out.

One thing I noticed was that when the fill plug is off and we operate the top, it goes up and down easily but when we plugged the fill hole it gets REALLY sluggish sometimes to the point that it won't even move at all.

CONT:

I came across links indicating to leave the fill hole unplugged and work the top up and down and that this process will bleed the system.

I did just that and fluid did come out with bubbles (just like bleeding brakes). However, after I re-filled the pump and plugged the filler, there was no significant change at all.

CONT:

So that process didn't work, did it? Guess you'll have to do it the proper way. Sorry man.

HOPE THIS HELPS,

Dwayne

WHAT A BIACHI!

I just went out to the garage to check the routing of my convt. top hydrolic lines and when I went to move one of them it just snapped!

I guess I need that info sooner rather than later.

Anyway. the lines going to the bottom of the hydro cylinders come from the T-side of the pump that faces the front of the car. The other going to the top of the cylinders go to the back side of the pump.

Routing goes as close to the back of the rear seat frame as possible kind of loosely drape around the sides. a few push-pin clips keep the lines planted as they leave the pump til the lines make the turns around the seat frame.

Let's work out the bleeding thing.


Now I am on the hunt for NEW replacement convertable top lines. I see that they are crimped into the T-fittings. I wonder what MATERIAL the lines are made of, anybody know?

FOUND A SET: $169.00 OUCH!