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Electrical 93 5.0. E-fans turned on than shut off. Whats wrong?

  • Thread starter Thread starter James V
  • Start date Start date Feb 16, 2019

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
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Connecticut
Feb 16, 2019
#1
  • Feb 16, 2019
  • #1
Hopefully this is my last post about this damn fan installation. I finally got everything hooked up. I wired the fan power to this connector (which I dont know what it is, but it had 12 volts) but then the car wouldn't start. I'm going to wire the power elsewhere, so that's no longer an issue



I hard wired the e fans to the battery, just temporarily to see if everything was going to work. I started the car and the fans immediately started blowing air (which confused me because I thought it was supposed to start at a certain temp) and they blew for like 10 seconds and cut out. I let the car run about 10 mins, the temp started going up further almost getting to temp on the gauge. I assumed they should have kicked back on by that point. What could be the issue? I check the 2 fuses attached to the fan and they are intact still.
 

James V

5 Year Member
Feb 26, 2017
409
144
63
Connecticut
Feb 16, 2019
#2
  • Feb 16, 2019
  • #2
So as far as the ignition coil connector, the previous owner cut the green wire in 2, not me. That's why I connected it to that.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Feb 18, 2019
#3
  • Feb 18, 2019
  • #3
That's the ignition coil that you wired into. You really don't want to tap onto that. You could...but if any issues arise it could disable the car. I'd personally prefer to wire into another wire that won't affect the ability of the car to drive.

Secondly, without knowing how it's wired it's tough to make recommendation. How many amps do the fans pull? You using a relay? A temp switch or controller?
 
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Blown88GT

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Nov 13, 1999
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Feb 20, 2019
#4
  • Feb 20, 2019
  • #4
You didn't follow the instructions you posted in the other thread.
 
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jrichker

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Feb 22, 2019
#5
  • Feb 22, 2019
  • #5
If you don't have a high current alternator, you can forget about using an electric fan. The stock 65 amp alternator on 86-93 Mustangs isn't big enough to run the fan and the rest of the car. If you have a 94 or later Mustang, the stock 3g alternator should be fine if it is working correctly.

Switching a fan on and off manually is a bad idea. Too many guys have been distracted (hot girl kissing on their neck, too much to drink, dog tired and not thinking clearly) and cooked things because they forgot to flip the switch. An equal number have forgotten to turn the switch off for the same reasons and run down their battery.

The best fan controller available today is a DC Control unit. www.dccontrol.com. Cost is about $???. Be prepared to wait 4 weeks or more to receive your controller once you have sent in your payment. The controllers are custom made in small lots and lead times can stretch out.

Next best is a SPAL controller - $70-$170 See http://www.spalusa.com/store/Main.aspx?html=pwmv3. eBay will have the controllers for a bargain price: do a Google search and see what you find.

At the bottom are the Hayden or Imperial controllers available through Advance Discount Auto Parts and AutoZone. The non adjustable one is about $30 ( Hayden 226206) and the adjustable one is about $60 (Hayden 226204). I recommend you do a Google search on Hayden and the part number for more info.

Do not use a simple on/off switch without using a relay. The high current load can burn up the typical cheap automotive switch very quickly. The fan draws 30 or more amps and you need to use #10 or #8 wire on the fan power and ground wiring.

If you are good with electrical stuff (90% of the people here aren't), build your own controller. The numbers on the diagram (#86, #87, etc) refer to the numbers on the bottom of a typical automotive relay.



Note that the temp sensor in the diagram needs to match the thermostat in your engine. The preferred arrangement is to have it open about 5 degrees above the thermostat.

If you are an experienced electronics tech or electrical engineer, email me and I will send you the prototype drawings of a fan controller that is similar in function to the DC Control unit. It is a build it, troubleshoot it yourself item. I will not build or troubleshoot units, so it is not suitable for anyone who isn't really good with electronics.
See my post at http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...-sooo-much-amperage-help.859590/#post-8645840 to get the drawings and full details.

Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or temp switch/temp sensor for an electric fan. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.

 
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Blown88GT

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Feb 22, 2019
#6
  • Feb 22, 2019
  • #6
Unfortunately, the OP already purchased the radiator & fan kit from LMR.
The SPAL controller is a DC Control design patented by DCC & licensed to Spal.
Both are PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) also known as "soft start".
Brian (DCC owner, designer, fabricator, packer, shipper; he does it all alone) & I have the 1st 2 he built (FK-35), both are still going strong after 15 years.
 
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Rt jam

Member
Oct 17, 2015
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Feb 24, 2019
#7
  • Feb 24, 2019
  • #7
Another good controller is the Flex i Lite https://www.flex-a-lite.com/accesso...roller-with-thread-in-temperature-sensor.html

It has a soft start feature and is fully adjustable.

No matter what choice is made. ALWAYS have the OFF temperature higher than the thermostat temperature. If not you could have a situation where the fan is running and the thermostat is closed. Now there is a waste of electricity, just loading up the alternator belt and you went swapped away from an engine driven fan for that very reason. It will also keep it from running on the highway.
 

Blown88GT

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Nov 13, 1999
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Feb 26, 2019
#8
  • Feb 26, 2019
  • #8
Rt jam said:
...No matter what choice is made. ALWAYS have the OFF temperature higher than the thermostat temperature. If not you could have a situation where the fan is running and the thermostat is closed....
Click to expand...
Not true with DCC since sensor is at radiator outlet, whereas most others place it at radiator inlet.
 

Rt jam

Member
Oct 17, 2015
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Feb 26, 2019
#9
  • Feb 26, 2019
  • #9
What does the outlet location have to do with my reply?

The ACTUAL number is not important. The scenario you are looking to avoid is the temperature setting is so low that the thermostat is closed and the fan is running. To explain this to ones that don't understand I just advise to set the off temperature higher. When the thermostat is closed, the coolant is not flowing through the radiator so there is no need to run the fans.
Same situation with highway driving. The air through the grill will cool the radiator and the thermostat regulates. In the situation you don't need fan running either. On computer controlled cars, this is forced.
 

Blown88GT

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Nov 13, 1999
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Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Feb 27, 2019
#10
  • Feb 27, 2019
  • #10
Rt jam said:
1. What does the outlet location have to do with my reply?

2. The ACTUAL number is not important.
3. The scenario you are looking to avoid is the temperature setting is so low that the thermostat is closed and the fan is running. To explain this to ones that don't understand I just advise to set the off temperature higher. When the thermostat is closed, the coolant is not flowing through the radiator so there is no need to run the fans.
4. Same situation with highway driving. The air through the grill will cool the radiator and the thermostat regulates. In the situation you don't need fan running either.
5. On computer controlled cars, this is forced.
Click to expand...
1. Everything
2. Numbers are important. Thermostats set the lower temperature limit & have a fair amount of hysteresis, 5-10 deg. between opening & closing.
3. True.
4. True.
5. ???
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Feb 27, 2019
#11
  • Feb 27, 2019
  • #11
#5 kinda stumped me too.
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
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Mar 2, 2019
#12
  • Mar 2, 2019
  • #12
holy fire hazard batman
 
Reactions: James V

Rt jam

Member
Oct 17, 2015
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Mar 5, 2019
#13
  • Mar 5, 2019
  • #13
Whether the sensor is in the radiator, near the inlet or near the outlet. Where ever it may be. Do not set the adjustment of the OFF temperature low enough to where the fans will run when the thermostat is closed.

I use numbers to explain with a 190 thermostat, off temperature should be above 190. The thermostat is closed anywhere under 190, there is no point running the fans when the coolant is at 180. In this case numbers is important so the theory can be understood. Same as over. At 200 we want the fans running.

When is numbers not important? When you understand the above theory and you just have a PLUS or MINUS setting on your controller. In this case your temp according to your gauge is solid at 190 or at some hash mark between H and C, as your thermostat regulates while you are on the highway. You stop the car, temp will rise and the thermostat will soon go wide open, after that moment you want the fan to run. The fans will pull temp down but if you pull it down far enough the thermostat will close and you are blowing a fan through a non circulating radiator. Total waste and that is the basis of my advice.

Lastly most OEM factory vehicles will not allow the fan to run on the highway regardless of temperature. Basically if air is flowing through the grille at 60 mph, running the fan will do nothing.
 
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