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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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93 LX 2.3L ICRM

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dloudin87
  • Start date Start date Apr 5, 2020
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Dloudin87

Member
Jan 25, 2020
28
3
13
Charleston West Virginia
Apr 5, 2020
#1
  • Apr 5, 2020
  • #1
Wondering if Im having an issue with my IRCM. My car starts on and off. And when it does start at first it smells very rich. Then it will drive ok but has a miss around 2k rpm. Soon as I try to get on it hard or go up a hill. It starts shaking bad and wont accelerate. If I shut it off at that point. Sometimes it will start back up and drive with no issue. Sometimes it wont start at all. Please help.
 
T

Titusvillefox89

Member
Jan 22, 2020
31
1
8
Titusville FL
Apr 5, 2020
#2
  • Apr 5, 2020
  • #2
Have you checked the fuel pressure at idle and under part and wot?
 
D

Dloudin87

Member
Jan 25, 2020
28
3
13
Charleston West Virginia
Apr 6, 2020
#3
  • Apr 6, 2020
  • #3
I was having trouble finding check valve for gauge. Previous owner has removed schrader valve and threaded a bolt in there. Its not leaking though so I see no issue there. The injector closest to firewall has saturation near the rail. I haven't put a pressure gauge on it yet but when i loosen that bolt. Fuel comes out but doesn't shoot out. Just kinds runs out smoothly. The injector was dry. After I shut it down I noticed the injector was wet. Then it didn't want to start. I could smell fuel. After 3 attempts. I held pedal 2/3 of way down and it started up. I had to hold it around 1.5 rpm to keep it running. After about 5 mins it would hold idle
 

91TwighlightGT

20+ Year Stangneter
Sep 8, 2002
1,190
375
124
Missouri
Apr 6, 2020
#4
  • Apr 6, 2020
  • #4
The reason the IRCM causes the car not to run is because the fuel pressure relay goes bad, which naturally causes the fuel pump not to run. You sound like you have a different running problem, most likely ignition which is causing unburnt fuel to get into the exhaust which is why you are smelling it.

Plugs, wires, coil packs, or the ignition control module are the most likely culprits.
 
Reactions: Dloudin87
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Dloudin87

Member
Jan 25, 2020
28
3
13
Charleston West Virginia
Apr 6, 2020
#5
  • Apr 6, 2020
  • #5
New parts are:
Plugs
Wires
2 coils
Ignition control module
Ignition switch
Timing belt
Crank sensor
Fuel filter
Coolant temp sensor
Radiator
Water pump.

I had a post on here before about this issue. I thought it was due to low temp readings. Now when it starts fresh it will start right up. It has a stumble around 2k rpm but will run good. After about 15 miles it will start stumbling bad. It just acts like it wants to stall and shakes bad. Then it will accelerate fine. If I go up a hill. It will stop dead and stumble/shake and will barely move forward. If I get in the gas it will shake very bad and die. And then it wont start back up until its sat at least an hour or so. Then starts just fine.
 
D

Dloudin87

Member
Jan 25, 2020
28
3
13
Charleston West Virginia
Apr 6, 2020
#6
  • Apr 6, 2020
  • #6
Been doing it since I've had it. But as Ive changed other parts I was guided to change and tested bad. The problem changed. Now it is to this issue which I thought was a fuel issue. I have read into alot of IRCM and EEC issues that are similar. That's why I was taking that route.
 

91TwighlightGT

20+ Year Stangneter
Sep 8, 2002
1,190
375
124
Missouri
Apr 6, 2020
#7
  • Apr 6, 2020
  • #7
I've experienced faulty fuel injectors on my own 2.3l. It is possible that yours are bad. You can buy a set of 4 cheap remans on ebay for $80-$100 or so.

If it were mine, and I had access to an infrared temperature gun, I would drive it around and then see if there is a different temperature on each exhaust manifold runner. Lower temperature indicates that cylinder is not performing, and you can then investigate further. Based on the parts you have replaced, I am assuming that you have already checked compression and made sure that the engine is timed properly after your timing belt change.

If you have an injector problem, you can also see if it will start on starting fluid when it is in the no-start situation. If it does, then it verifies a fueling issue rather than an ignition issue.

Lastly - and it may be hard to tell if the car doesn't want to keep running - but a head gasket issue could cause the spark plugs to get wet and foul. N/A 2.3L's aren't exactly notorious for head gasket problems (the Turbo engines do blow them, especially when modified) but it is not unheard of either. Has there been any sign of coolant loss?
 
D

Dloudin87

Member
Jan 25, 2020
28
3
13
Charleston West Virginia
Apr 8, 2020
#8
  • Apr 8, 2020
  • #8
Spark plugs are dry. Compression was checked before and after timing change. Lowest compression was around 160 highest was 175. When it wont start. I can shoot starting fluid in TB and it will hit. But wont stay running. If I wait an hour or so.. It will start right up
 
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