I have a low mile complete 5.0 from a 94 that I want to swap into a 67 cougar. I am keeping the fuel injection, my question is can I swap the front timing cover from the 289 block to the 94 block so i can keep my current accesories? I know I need to swap the oil pan and pickup to clear the steering. thanks for any info
94 gt motor into 67 cougar
- Thread starter 50adrod
- Start date
Any decent parts supplier can provide this, I'd use Glazier Nolan because they are good, and close by. This is a special item created for the conversion you describe.
Many of the classic Stang vendors sell these as well. Try Mustangs Unlimited. You can also try drilling your 3 bolt crank pulley to 4 bolt and see if it works with the 5.0's balancer. If you have both 3 & 4 bolt balancers off the engines, measure the distance from the rear of the center hole (that fits onto the crank snout) to the pulley flange for both and see if they're different, if not, then just drilling the 3 bolt pulley to 4 bolt should work.
back on project
I am doing this with a friend and it got sidetracked for a while....
plans change and we are going to keep the serpentine set up. I hear there may be clearance problems with the stock a/c bracket, anyone had this problem? my other question is about the flywheel. can I use the flywheel and clutch from the old 289 motor? thanks for any input
I am doing this with a friend and it got sidetracked for a while....
plans change and we are going to keep the serpentine set up. I hear there may be clearance problems with the stock a/c bracket, anyone had this problem? my other question is about the flywheel. can I use the flywheel and clutch from the old 289 motor? thanks for any input
MustangB
New Member
Do your research
There are a couple of problems you'll encounter. First with the new oil pan you'll notice there is a relief stamped into the 94 pan where the dipstick comes out of the block. The new(old style) pan you put on won't have this clearance. You'll have to plug the hole in the block and make use of another style of dipstick. With the 93 and earlier, you could just drill out the un-used boss in the timing cover and place the old-school style dipstick there and be done. But starting with the 94, they made a few significant changes to the front of the motor.
They use a short water pump and timing cover. This timing cover has no provision for a dipstick. Solution? Get an aftermarket oil pan with a dipstick provision. Canton has one.
Also, with the new serpentine setup, the AC is low on the drivers side and it will contact the shock tower. I solved this by moving the compressor to where the smog pump was on the passenger side with some fabricated brackets.
I installed a 95GT motor in my 65 Mustang, and kept the serpentine setup and EFI. You'll find my blog of the project here: 1965 Mustang Restomod
There are a couple of problems you'll encounter. First with the new oil pan you'll notice there is a relief stamped into the 94 pan where the dipstick comes out of the block. The new(old style) pan you put on won't have this clearance. You'll have to plug the hole in the block and make use of another style of dipstick. With the 93 and earlier, you could just drill out the un-used boss in the timing cover and place the old-school style dipstick there and be done. But starting with the 94, they made a few significant changes to the front of the motor.
They use a short water pump and timing cover. This timing cover has no provision for a dipstick. Solution? Get an aftermarket oil pan with a dipstick provision. Canton has one.
Also, with the new serpentine setup, the AC is low on the drivers side and it will contact the shock tower. I solved this by moving the compressor to where the smog pump was on the passenger side with some fabricated brackets.
I installed a 95GT motor in my 65 Mustang, and kept the serpentine setup and EFI. You'll find my blog of the project here: 1965 Mustang Restomod
MustangB
New Member
Shock Towers
If memory serves, the compressor hit the tower long before it was in position, so you'd have to cut out a large scallop to allow room for the hoses as well. The hoses mount on the rear of the compressor, so you not only have to cut out to clear those, but you must leave enough room to be able to remove them for service.
I'd recommend against cutting into your towers. These are structural members that don't need to be weakened. It was easy to make the brackets to move the compressor. One thing I did not mention is that I replaced the stock compressor with a Sanden that has the ports coming out of the top instead of the back. I made up new hoses and routed them appropriately.
Many factors go into this decision. My way cost more than merely modifying the tower, but for me, the cost was justified. If you are on a shoe string budget, cutting the relief, flipping it, and welding it back in is a quick fix. And you won't have to fight serpentine belt alignment issues. I ended up having to slot my brackets some so I could get my belt to stop squeaking.
If memory serves, the compressor hit the tower long before it was in position, so you'd have to cut out a large scallop to allow room for the hoses as well. The hoses mount on the rear of the compressor, so you not only have to cut out to clear those, but you must leave enough room to be able to remove them for service.
I'd recommend against cutting into your towers. These are structural members that don't need to be weakened. It was easy to make the brackets to move the compressor. One thing I did not mention is that I replaced the stock compressor with a Sanden that has the ports coming out of the top instead of the back. I made up new hoses and routed them appropriately.
Many factors go into this decision. My way cost more than merely modifying the tower, but for me, the cost was justified. If you are on a shoe string budget, cutting the relief, flipping it, and welding it back in is a quick fix. And you won't have to fight serpentine belt alignment issues. I ended up having to slot my brackets some so I could get my belt to stop squeaking.
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