It's possible. I do have a spare J4J1 laying around I could try. To my knowledge however, the car should still have spark and at least sputter to start even if the ECU failedECU took a dump on you?
Yup, both sides of the coil plug have 12V in runDo you have 12V at the coil plug in the run and start key positions?
God luck out side of fleabay those things are hens teeth these days for the DU 30,... The roll pins in those New loaded China distributors are pot metal, way to soft so not shocked it sheared one, damn gear isn't even press fit. if your stuck with those buy a bag of coil spring pins to replace them. Think I paid $5-10 for a 100.China distributor, I put a new stator in his old Ford distributor Motorcraft DU 50
Getting harder to find, but around
If yours is not a remote mount TFI you need DU 30 C
I understand that the parts store distributors and PIP are not of the highest quality but it is my understanding that if the Check Engine Light goes out, the PIP and distributor is providing a signal and therefore are good. Can anyone confirm? The last thing I want to try is to pull the spout connector and see if it starts.So if there is no pulsating voltage then the coil will not fire at all, correct? The stators are pretty much all junk with the exception of the Standard Ignition LX222. I know people interchange (myself included) the stator with the PIP (profile ignition pickup) or hall effect sensor. There is only one sensor inside the distributor so whatever you like to call it just understand that its two functions are to tell the TFI module (also known as the ICM or ignition control module) when to tell the coil to fire and sends the same signal to the ECU for injector pulsing.
So I am going off of memory here so please check me as I was chasing a no spark problem on my Coupe years ago which lead to doing what I am going to try and describe below. In my case the injectors did pulse but there was no spark. One way to tell if the stator is bad is to unplug the distributor from the ECU harness, pull the distributor (mark the base of the distributor body to the block and rotor bug to the distributor so you can reinstall with the timing correct), ground the body of the distributor, connect the distributor back to the ECU harness, and install a plug into the distributor side of the coil wire and ground the body of the spark plug. Turn the key to run and spin the distributor by hand. You should see a spark and hear the injectors pulse. If you do not see a spark or hear the injectors pulse then their is a problem with the stator.
Again, would appreciate someone checking me on the above "test" as its been a few years.
I understand that the parts store distributors and PIP are not of the highest quality but it is my understanding that if the Check Engine Light goes out, the PIP and distributor is providing a signal and therefore are good. Can anyone confirm? The last thing I want to try is to pull the spout connector and see if it starts.
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