95 Cobra Cutting off in Traffic, Restarts after 1-10 minutes, Help!

[Fords4ME]

This problem started for me back in the fall when it was warm. It has now started up again so it seems to be heat related.

The engine cuts off usually sitting in traffic or at low speeds. It has happened about 8 times so far.

When I try to restart, it turns over like normal but never fires. After as little as 1 minute or as much as 10 minutes it fires right up and continues running for the rest of my commute home (which happens to be highway driving for the most part).

My first idea was to replace the ignition module. Did that on March 1st and until this weekend, I had zero problems out of 10 trips.

In the last few days (70 degrees air temp or higher) it has cut off twice. Also, after sitting in a parking lot for 10+ minutes it has failed to start three times. It ran perfectly until parked, I go in and come out, won't start. Waited 1-2 minutes, it starts and I drive home with no issues.

I guess the ignition module wasn't the culprit after all? I was able to check fuel pressure with the rail guage and it read normal ~40psi during the time trying to restart it. I know it takes a while for the fuel pressure to leak down so the fuel pump is one possibility.

Because of the heat, I'm leaning towards the coil since I already replaced the ignition module. Anyone got any ideas? MSD Coil is about 3 years old.

 

[KBCobra95]

I would say either the TFI or the PIP. Possibly the coil too.

 

[HISSIN50]

When it won't start, check for spark and injector pulsing. This will greatly narrow things down and help save tossing money at parts. Both diagnostics take less than a minute.

Good luck.

 

[95BLKGT5.0]

Just a guess but happened to me once.
Crack in the intake?? Car gets hot crack expands lets air in.
Just a guess!

 

[xr8d302]

Sounds identical to a problem i had a few years ago

Profile Ignition Pickup....guaranteed! It will get worse over the next while, you can either buy an aftermarket dizzy or just rebuild yours

 

[69clark]

Well everyone beat me to it, PIP!

Almost all of us have been there!

 

[Fords4ME]

Sounds like a solid place to start. I have zero experience with the PIP. Is it hard to replace?

xr, you mentioned rebuilding the distributor or buy a new one. Would it be wise to replace the whole thing now? I am positive it is the original piece so maybe its time. It made a good run.

 

[BK_CAULEY]

with a little bit of time its not difficult to replace. you have to disasemble the dizzy but its not complicated just remove the roll pin out of the gear and the colar of the dis shaft andup top take the i belive 6mm bolt off the metal housing and i belive your cars tfi is mounted seperatly and not attached to the distributor but if it is just push the shaft and all upwards and slide wires out if tfi is mounted on the dis it will all slide right off.

 

[Guero]

I would just get a new dizzy

 

[The Green GT]

YOU DOWN WIT PIP? YEA YOU KNOW ME



Sorry. lol

But yea I bet its the PIP.

 

[stprorolla49]

Yea, the same thing happened to me. Just take your old dizzy out and swap it at autozone for a remanufactured one. Its only around $75 if i remember correctly once you get the core charge back. Good luck.

 

[Fords4ME]

Do PIP sensors often fail during hot weather?

I'm also wondering if aftermarket distibutors use a better PIP.

I tossed a DMM in the trunk so I can check the PIP voltage during a failure. I guess it should be active if the key is in the "On" position? I hope this is a YES NO type of failure. NO voltage means bad. Should I be looking for a range or just off/on?

 

[The Green GT]

I really cant tell you about the charge, but mine went out last year about this time, and then more and more people on the forums started having PIP problems. So I guess hot weather has something to do with it.

Try spraying it with electrical cleaner when it dies.

 

[HISSIN50]

Do PIP sensors often fail during hot weather?

I'm also wondering if aftermarket distibutors use a better PIP.

I tossed a DMM in the trunk so I can check the PIP voltage during a failure. I guess it should be active if the key is in the "On" position? I hope this is a YES NO type of failure. NO voltage means bad. Should I be looking for a range or just off/on?

When PIP's are on the outs, they are more likely to fail when they're hot (be it physically hot or when ambient temps are hot).

It's hard to beat an OEM PIP IMHO. They last for a decent amount of miles. It's not a performance part so I betcha many aftermarket dizzies source PIP's from Tier One parts suppliers.

You could use a DMM or oscilliscope to check PIP function (it'd be an AC or square wave type of measurement, it seems to me). Much easier: When it acts up and won't start, check for spark. If you have it, your PIP is ok. If not, check for injector pulsing.

If you dont have spark or injector pulsing, the PIP is likely.

If you have injector pulsing but no spark, put a test light across the small gauge wires going to the ignition coil. Look for the test light to pulse quickly while cranking. If it does but you have no spark, the coil is likely bad.

If you dont have the test light flashing, think TFI. Parts stores can bench test them. Have it done several times in a row to heat the TFI up. Their critical temp is ~257*F.

Good luck.

 

[Fords4ME]

Local dealer says they cannot get just a PIP. The whole distributor (F4ZZ12127A) is $417!

Does anyone know where I can find just the PIP?


Thanks

 

[69clark]

I think I got mine from autozone.

 

[The Green GT]

Local dealer says they cannot get just a PIP. The whole distributor (F4ZZ12127A) is $417!

Does anyone know where I can find just the PIP?


Thanks

Go to Auto Zone and get a remanned dist for like $100.
You need a press to change just the PIP and its still a PITA Ive heard.

 

[HISSIN50]

Napa also sells PIPs (Call it a stator or the parts store guys get all screwed up).

 

[Fords4ME]

Yea the local dealer didn't know what a PIP was until I used the word "stator". They only had one for the 3.8L but not the 5.0.

Can anybody confirm the need for a press to change the stator?

I only have handtools and I dont want to risk driving and breaking down on the way to the shop. The tow would cost more than the whole distributor.

 

[HISSIN50]

If you have a bearing splitter and a three jaw puller, you should be able to remove the gear (the bearing splitter distributes force evenly around the gear and the jaws pull on the splitter instead of the gear).

It really seems like some come off easier than others. Some folks use hammers and stuff on theirs, which isn't too cool of an idea IMHO.

Good luck.