95 GT Issues and Codes - 158, 172, 176, 212

[kfvintx]

I recently bought a 95 GT with 76k miles. At time of purchase it had blown head gasket so got it for really good $$$ and had all repairs done to get it running (heads, gaskets, radiator, fan, hoses, all new ignition, wires, plugs, etc.). The car ran great for about 2k miles albeit really bad mpg (9.5-10 mpg). And then the issues started.... car completely died while driving so had it towed to shop (I didn't have time to troubleshoot and fix) which diagnosed as MAF and was replaced. Car ran good for about 2 weeks with same bad mpg. But now having more issues which I'm trying to diagnose and fix myself but having problems. I have replaced just about every sensor I can think of "shooting in the dark" kinda but also piece of mind - IAC, O2 sensors, TFI, TPS.

It now idles rough at about 750 but feels like it has a cam in it (it's 100% stock). Sometimes surges up to 1k and then down to barely 200. Seems to be more of an issue on first startup of the day but still not great when at operating temp. In the driveway car will idle and rev good but car will die a few times when just driving around the block. It always starts right back up and then sometimes drives good with acceleration and then sometimes just putters and dies again. CEL randomly on and off put getting 158, 172, 176, and 212 codes which seems odd because it has brand new MAF, distributor and O2 sensors but entirely possible I'm not understanding the codes?

On a whim, it was getting low on gas and the thought occurred that maybe my daughter got a tank of really bad gas (problems started with about 20 miles on new fill-up) so I filled it up a couple days ago and with full tank it started running great. I drove around about 30 miles in 45 mins with no issues or CEL but next time I started it had all the same issues again. It seems to get worse as the tank gets lower ???? I have a new fuel filter and fuel pump on order but not 100% convinced the issue is fuel related with those codes.

Any thoughts??? What am I missing?

 

[BrightVa]

I'm having similar issues. Mine is only throwing code 212. If you make any progress figuring it out, please post about it!

 

[Chythar]

Code 212 is usually the hall effect sensor inside the distributor; it's usually called the PIP. When mine failed last year, the car mostly ran fine but would 'stutter' at times and act like the engine was cutting out for a second. Which it technically was, as the PIP was failing to tell the computer it could ignite the fuel in the current cylinder. Take off your distributor cap and see if you have any black dust in the bottom of the bowl there. If so, it's time for a new PIP.

A rebuilt distributor may not have a replaced PIP, so you should either replace the PIP yourself (by rebuilding the distributor) or buying a new one.

Here is a video showing how to disassemble the distributor:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-9kWzy8xQU

 

[BrightVa]

I found this article about how to test the individual components of the ignition system. I'm going to start working on the test procedures this weekend.

Part 1 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)

Page 1 of 5: How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted). How to test the Ignition Module, PIP Sensor, Ignition Coil, Spark Plug Wires, Distributor Cap. Fender mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM).

easyautodiagnostics.com

 

[BrightVa]

Code 212 is usually the hall effect sensor inside the distributor; it's usually called the PIP. When mine failed last year, the car mostly ran fine but would 'stutter' at times and act like the engine was cutting out for a second. Which it technically was, as the PIP was failing to tell the computer it could ignite the fuel in the current cylinder. Take off your distributor cap and see if you have any black dust in the bottom of the bowl there. If so, it's time for a new PIP.

A rebuilt distributor may not have a replaced PIP, so you should either replace the PIP yourself (by rebuilding the distributor) or buying a new one.

Thanks for the tip! If testing shows the distributor or PIP as the bad component, I will probably just buy a new unit from Ford. Just to be sure I'm taking care of the issue.

 

[manicmechanic007]

Your TFI module needs to be black to have IDM capability (ignition diagnostic monitor)
The IDM monitors the ignition and cannot do it with a grey module and code 212 is the result
If your module is black and have a code 212, you have problems with your TFI, stator et al.
Run through the pinpoint tests for the MAF code 158
Lean codes both banks may be fixed by the MAF or possibly you have a vacuum leak
Clean the MAF before replacing and interrogate the connector (they had failures of the connector in your cars era)
Good luck
The fluctuating idle is a classic for a vacuum leak
The MAF code can mimic that concern

 

[kfvintx]

The new TFI I replaced with is black. The MAF is brand new less than 1k miles and still clean as new. The MSD distributor cap and ignition rotor are new with less than 3k miles. Not sure if that includes PIP that is referenced above?

On a side note, the car seems to run better with spout removed but I say that only by sound and not driving it.

 

[manicmechanic007]

Does it miss?
The stator inside the distributor creates the pip signal
The new Motorcraft stators are getting hard to find
If a black module and code 212 then diagnosis for IDM is needed
I should have that info in a PCED if you need

 

[kfvintx]

Does it miss?
The stator inside the distributor creates the pip signal
The new Motorcraft stators are getting hard to find
If a black module and code 212 then diagnosis for IDM is needed
I should have that info in a PCED if you need

Yes, please.... not positive will be needed but always good to have just in case.

Update for today: car idles and drives good with SPOUT unplugged. Plug it back in and issues start back. Same with MAF - unplug and car idles and drives good but immediately has issues plugging in. The MAF is new with less than 1k miles on it. So it runs good with either unplugged.

All wires and connectors look good. Is it possible the new MAF is not good? Car is completely stock so can't imagine any calibration is needed for the new MAF from parts store. What is the other sensor sharing harness with MAF also with port in intake tube?

 

[AeroCoupe]

If the MAF plug has six wires then the Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is in the MAF. I know the IAT sensor is in the MAF’s on the ‘96 and up cars but not sure on the 94/95.

 

[kfvintx]

Final Update: on a whim I decided to try a new MAF even though it was replaced 2 weeks prior and glad I did because that fixed everything. Drives perfect and no codes.

 

[manicmechanic007]

Here is some of that code 212 diagnosis, just for GP's

 

[BrightVa]

Here is some of that code 212 diagnosis, just for GP's

Thanks for posting this. I had a done a lot of other testing, but it was all inconclusive. So I broke down and ordered a new ICM from Ford. If that doesn't fix it, I'll try some of these tests.

Sorry - this is not my thread, but I'm having a similar issue and didn't get any replies on my thread.

 

[manicmechanic007]

It sure is possible your MAF is no good kfvintx
Can you read any pids with your scan tool?
You set the timing (10 degrees BTDC) with the spout removed right?
Plugged in and now what is the timing?