A basic free mod check list
- Thread starter nickg42oz
- Start date
Aliate X
Member
deadlast
New Member
Aliate X
Member
Stang8URMPRT
Active Member
Not free, but inexpensive...
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...
Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1
95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.
3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.
Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.
*1.) I got a metal flange adapter from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was over a year ago. Summit Racing may also have one too.
Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673
http://www.poweredbyford.com/
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...
Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1
95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.
3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.
Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.
*1.) I got a metal flange adapter from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was over a year ago. Summit Racing may also have one too.
Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673
http://www.poweredbyford.com/
deadlast
New Member
OL' WHITEY
New Member
Okay, deadlast. I'll try to explain. I'm feeling helpful today. Guys. don't flame me too bad. It's not the easiest thing to explain, okay?! Here goes...Timing is the relationship of spark to the position of the piston in the cylinder. Advanced timing causes the sparkplug to arc before the piston has come fully to the top of it's stroke (top dead center). Zero degrees timing is spark at TDC and retarded timing is spark after the piston has reached the top of it's stroke and is on it's way back down. To adjust the timing in a 5.0, loosen the distributor hold-down bolt and turn the distributor. Do this with the spout disconnected and point a timing light at the crank pulley. The pulley is marked. By turning the distributor, you'll find that you can advance or retard timing. Advanced timing adds a little power because if your spark happens before your piston has reached TDC, the piston more easily forces the spent gases out of the combustion chamber as it makes it's way up to TDC. Timing is set by the factory at around 10 degrees advanced. If you advance it further, you will be forced to run premium fuel to combat spark knock, but most stangers do it and feel that it's worth the extra price at the pump. I've had my timing up to as much as 17 degrees before with no pinging on 93 octane. I've heard that after about 14 degrees, you don't really pick up much more hp though.
huRACEmentPSR
Banned
remove spare tire (espically applied to me...i went to 5 lug and had the 4lug spare still in 
35lbs+)
remove gt fog light bracket (30lbs+)
^homemade ram air (funnel and clother dryer silver flex tube)
take out backseat (~35lbs)
35lbs+) remove gt fog light bracket (30lbs+)
^homemade ram air (funnel and clother dryer silver flex tube)
take out backseat (~35lbs)
Stang8URMPRT
Active Member
Did you know that that coolant is there to COOL OFF the EGR (exhaust gas)?? Lemme think? 800-1200 degrees exhaust, or 200 degree coolant? LOL
I've herd against the coolant bypass unless you have the egr blocked off and you have an egr simulator. but I am temted to take the temp before, disconnect it, and take the temp after to see for myself and end all the debates
btw, whats the "dog bone"?
oh, and for my contrabution, when you go to the track try jacking up the pressure in the front tires to 45lbs. it ballons out the tire so you have less of a contact patch and therefore less friction to the road. this is perfectly safe at the track, I have done it on many different cars and I have been doing it for years. just make sure you remember to let the extra air back out when you leave the track and go back on the street
btw, whats the "dog bone"?
oh, and for my contrabution, when you go to the track try jacking up the pressure in the front tires to 45lbs. it ballons out the tire so you have less of a contact patch and therefore less friction to the road. this is perfectly safe at the track, I have done it on many different cars and I have been doing it for years. just make sure you remember to let the extra air back out when you leave the track and go back on the street
