I just picked up a 93 2.3 5-speed with about 166K on her. The AC works decently, but has an odd problem. Well first off, when I come to a red lights, the drain from the AC system still working causes the idle to drop to about 600rpms, almost die, and then jump to about 1,000rpms. The car has never died at a light, but it feels like its close. Do I need to raise the idle maybe? Anyone else have this problem. The car seems to idle pretty well when the AC is off. Both of my prior 2.3s didn't have AC, but never really had idle problems. Also, someones when taking off in 1st with the AC on, I hear some squelling sound coming from like behind the AC controls almost. Its a definetly noticable sound. Anyone?
A/C question
- Thread starter Kevins89notch5.0
- Start date
just bump the idle up a little and everything will run and work better, or put gauges on the a/c and check the pressures to see if they are right. you might have a compressor going bad, or you might be building up head pressure in the a/c system because the condensor not long dissapates heat because it might be shot
glowstang93
20+ Year Stangneter 
I am going in a different direction with my opinions. First the alternator that came stock on the 2.3's is only a 75 amp alternator. If you have the compressor on like for the a/c or defrost, it will suck your volts way down which in turn makes the car almost die. I upgraded mine to a 3G 95 amp. Second, the squealing could be the compressor clutch. Look at the clutch when its running and see if it wobbles or the rubber bushing towards the center is coming out from the clutch. Based on what information you have provided, this is my best guess. Good luck, let us know what you figure out.
glowstang93
20+ Year Stangneter
Here is a pic of the 3G alternator, mine had several applications, but one was for 1 1992 ford van with V8.
View attachment 506549
The big difference is the output never lets the voltage drop so low that it seems like the car is going to die. If I did it again, I would go for the next one up, 130 amp.
JB66 lets see some pics of yours
View attachment 506549
The big difference is the output never lets the voltage drop so low that it seems like the car is going to die. If I did it again, I would go for the next one up, 130 amp.
JB66 lets see some pics of yours
Kevins89notch5.0 said:Well I'm back from a little drive, and dripping in sweat. The AC seems to be no more. ****!!!! I only bought this car for the AC(and mileage), and only got a week of the AC
Guess now I need to figure out what went bad with the AC
after you posting this it sounds more ike you have a freon leak. you ready do need to put a set of A/C guages on it to find out if it is leaking out or if you need a compressor
Dr_EluSivE
Founding Member
if the freon leaked out, get yourself a r134a conversion kit with the leak stop. I converted a few years ago and it still works well. It was WAY cheaper then fixing it with r12. You might also check the clutch, i had one go out during a hot summer due to the system being low on freon and causing the clutch to cycle.
Dr.
Dr.
glowstang93
20+ Year Stangneter
DR, Dr, (sounds like a song lol) Anyways, where did you get ur conversion kit from for 134A and what did it cost? Mine is still cold, but who knows when it will give it up. Thanks 
Sounds like something with the clutch or compressor. The 93 can gauge the amount of freon pressure and it will shut off the compressor if it gets too low. But definately switch to 134, takes alittle bit of money, but its easier and cheaper in the long run. Plus 12 needs a licenced person to buy it, but any other person can pick up cans of 134. As far as converting it, that was done in 1998 when it was my father's car, he got it at Hi-Lo (Orielly's). the 134 kit is just some fittings and oil, costs about $30 today, $20 for the fittings.
glowstang93
20+ Year Stangneter
TMX said:
The compressor didn't have to be swapped out? evacuate the system? Little more details if you can, thankx
From my understanding, if your current system is in good working order, the only thing you have to do is get the kit, which is the R134 fittings, hoses and a certian oil, clean out the old r12, put in new parts, and fill it up. I'll double check, my father is the mechanic of the family with just about every ASE certification for vehicles, performance cars, classics and hybrids. From what I gathered, thats all he changed on my '93. I've read that the accumulator has to be 134 compliant, so check to see if it is XH7 or XH9. The car I drive was converted before it was mine, some 7 years ago when I was like 11, but none the less, this is one of those family drove the 2.3 to the ground and back kind of things going on. Google came up with this:
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/r134.html
it sounds close to what I was told, so that could be a good guide to go by.
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/r134.html
it sounds close to what I was told, so that could be a good guide to go by.
Dr_EluSivE
Founding Member
you have to get rid of the all the r12 out of the system, but once that it done you pretty much just drop n the 134. people say that the lines and accumulator should be 134 compliant, but i didnt change a thing, and it keeps me cool and hasent really caused any issues. When i bought the kit it was like $20, but in the last few years R134 prices have gone way up, so who knows what they cost now. basically though you need the fittings, Oil charge, and the r134.
Dr.
Dr.
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