a few pinion angle questions (kinda)

[stonegod85]

so i got my double adj steeda uppers and weight jacker lowers in. i set the pinion angle to what might be -2* according to steeda's instructions on the length of the uppers, but i don't think that is precise at all. i've got the measuring tool to find the pinion angle through the crank, so that is under control. here is my question, as it sits now with the "-2*" angle...the rubber bumper that hits the differential and keeps the car from bottoming out is resting on the differential quite a bit, and it causes alot of squeek. is the bumper supposed to be shaved or swapped out with an aftermarket bumper or is it supposed to rest on the diff? also i've been told that i can take the wishbone off the diff now that i have 4.10's as it is now useless. is this correct?

 

[Red2000GT]

Usually you need to trim the pinion snubber when installing lowering springs but,even without cutting it,it shouldn't rest on the pinion. You need to make sure you're referencing from a true level point on the housing. So you need to make up a device that will give you a level spot to measure with on the housing,not just resting it on the raw body of the housing.

 

[stonegod85]

so basically i just need to correct my pinion angle by adjusting using a device that attaches magnetically to the crank pulley that will show the pinion angle in a more precise manor?

 

[hotrodnut]

The springs on my Mach1 came with another snubber that was half the length of the stock one. After setting the pinion angle (nose of the rear gear housing rotated down in relation to the drive shaft angle) there is plenty of room between the snubber and plate on the differential. It has never bottomed out even on the hardest launches or going thru the biggest dips.

If you remove the dogbone weight the snubber plate will be removed too by the way. Most people say when changing to a lower gear or an aluminum drive shaft that removing the weight doesn't cause any vibration issues.