A little help before I start my 4-to-8

Depending on your intentions, remember that anywhere a 302 will fit, a 351w will fit. If you really want to keep up with the new cars, I'd go with a 408w. If you just want a cool cruiser a the 302 would be cheaper to feed.

408W w/ good heads. Don't go cheap on the heads, get the best you can afford!
TKO or T5X manual or 4R70W auto w/ stand-alone controller
8.8 Rear w/ 5 lug conversion from a SN95 front and back
Complete Holley Sniper FI kit w/ distributor and ignition
Do a tubular K-Member and full suspension refresh front and rear while you're in there.
Sub-frame connectors and torque box reenforcements are a MUST on a 'vert
  • Sponsors (?)

Started getting the car apart this weekend, seems like a lot of work but I think I ready for it.

I have no engine building experience and I don't have a 302 to modify, where's the best place to find an engine/transmission for a reasonable price?
I thought this was a fun cruiser.
You can get that from either of those :nice:

I would target my compression to be between the stock 9.1:1 ratio (on an 86 anyway) all the way to the high 9s.

Either a cast or forged crank will work in this territory with no issues (although I would say a DART blick with a cast crank is nearly sacrilege) but for the 351? No problem.

Some fat heads, and 75+mm TB (I vote for high quality 80mm).

Intake Hmmmm..... I think what I would do in this situation is fill out a cam sheet and kick it into Ed's court :rlaugh: from here: https://www.flowtechinduction.com/cam-tech-form/

The "Infamous" CAMSHAFT TECH form -

To order one of our custom camshaft profiles, just "copy and paste" the information below and Email it back to us. Keep in mind, if you send the information in a format other than a word.doc, it will delay a response.

Email to: [email protected] -or- [email protected]


Type of Camshaft Requested:
Hydraulic Flat Tappet [ ]
Solid Flat Tappet [ ]
Hydraulic Roller [ ]
Solid/Mechanical Roller [ ]
Overhead Camshaft [ ]
Vehicle Manufacturer:
Body Style or Type:
Race Weight with Driver:
Type of Engine:
Deck Height:
Cubic Inches:
Piston Part Number:
Type of Piston:
Connecting Rod Length:
Connecting Rod Type:
RPM Range Desired:
Cylinder Head Manufacturer:
Part Number:
Ported or Stock As Cast:
Intake Valve Size:
Exhaust Valve Size:
Intake Port Volume:
Exhaust Port Volume:
Combustion Chamber Size:
Flow Figures at 28 in/hg
.100: -
.200: -
.300: -
.400: -
.500: -
.550: -
.600: -
.650: -
.700: -
.750: -
.800: -
Valve Spring Manufacturer:
Part Number:
Seat Pressure:
Spring Rate:
Coil Bind:
Type of Rocker Arm:
Rocker Arm Ratio:
Intake Manifold Style:
Manufacturer Part Number:
Stock or Ported:
Throttle Body or Carb Size:
Stock or Ported:
Engine Management System:
Power-Adder Type:
Part Number:
Horsepower Jet Range:
Part Number:
Drive System:
Part Number:
Exhaust System Type -
Manifolds [ ]
Shorty Headers [ ]
Mid-Length Headers [ ]
Long Tube Headers [ ]
Primary Diameter:
Collector Diameter:
X-Pipe or Y-Pipe or H-Pipe:
Exhaust System Diameter:
Type of Muffler:
Full Exhaust or Dumps:
Transmission Info -
Manual Type:
Clutch Type:
Automatic Type:
Converter Stall:
Trans Gear Ratios:
Rear Axle Gear Ratio:
Rear Tire Size:
Suspension Mods:
Emissions Required?
Previous Camshaft Manufacturer:
Part Number or Grind Info:
Intake Duration at .006” Tappet Lift:
Intake Duration at .020” Tappet Lift:
Intake Duration at .050” Tappet Lift:
Intake Duration at .200” Tappet Lift:
Exhaust Duration at .006” Tappet Lift:
Exhaust Duration at .020” Tappet Lift:
Exhaust Duration at .050” Tappet Lift:
Exhaust Duration at .200” Tappet Lift:
Intake Lobe Lift:
Exhaust Lobe Lift:
Lobe Separation:
Intake Centerline:
Goals and Usage:
Special Issues:

There are a couple of intakes that come to mind but there might be one he likes above some others. Make sure the intake accepts an 80mm. :D

I don't know what state you live in but I'd do my best [not] install the smog pump and associated hardware. Keep the EGR and PCV systems (if possible depending on heads). 3Way cats are better anyhow :shrug:

I'd throw T5 and a good set of long tubes behind it and drive it down the road.

It's already prepped for boost on a later date in a galaxy far, far away.

Build the fuel system so that you only have to do it once. Keep hood clearance issues in mind with the 351. 6 inch cowls on the street are lame. :notnice:

Suspension is next: Replace everything keeping it as stock as possible except for the LCAs. I put new OEM-style shocks and quad shocks all the way around. Urethane suspension bushings in everything except the 1995 steel Upper control arms. Leave the rubber bushing installed. Rebuild the Trac-Lok with the extra used clutch (ask about this if you don't understand).


Upgrade them. Pic the wheels you like first then improve the brakes to accommodate them. Just a [little] improvement in this area is [huge] on a Fox.