a new custom part i made :)
- Thread starter Foxfan88
- Start date
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
captured from video..... best I could get,
View attachment 338482
View attachment 338483
View attachment 338484
View attachment 338485
View attachment 338482
View attachment 338483
View attachment 338484
View attachment 338485
I'm curious how that's going to perform being totally open like that. I'm thinking it may be better something like this:
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
I'm thinking this thing would be badass for forced induction but maybe not so much for all motor...it's probably not going to make much torque but lots of top end, kinda/sorta like running a Victor Jr carbed intake with a 90* elbow on top with a throttle body.
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
It looks like the notched it for clearence for the IAC .
Fox fan put a longer neck on his to push the TB and IAC out away from the plenum
Fox fan put a longer neck on his to push the TB and IAC out away from the plenum
Yeah could be....i'm just throwing up ideas, lord knows i've never built an intake 
Just something about a rectangle doesn't seem very flow promoting, but then again guys make really simple homemade intakes for 2.3 turbo cars all the time so i dunno.
Definitely keep us updated on how it performs.
Just something about a rectangle doesn't seem very flow promoting, but then again guys make really simple homemade intakes for 2.3 turbo cars all the time so i dunno.
Definitely keep us updated on how it performs.
if i were to build an intake for an all motor car i would have made it with radiused in and added more a funnel action to it, but since its forced induction its going to be under pressure when the engine is making power so airflow wont be a problem the engine will be fed. it is boxy but that upper box is 300 CI like i wanted to make it. i talked to some poeple like tmoss and some local people. i'm not sure on how the plenum volumes would work/affect a blown car 100%
since the engine is pressureized, i wanted get rid of some small runners and eliminate that 180 degree turn the air has to make like on a traditional 5.0 intake.
the lower is directly under the center of the box. my thinking is the air will come in, pressurize along with the whole engine and just have a straight shot down into the lower.
its also made of thin sheet metal, it will dissapate heat alot faster than the thick cast manifold would. from what i have messed with, with a regular cast manifold. once the engine is up to temp and running the upper intake gets HOT, enough to where you cant hold your hand on it. it gets heat soaked and there is also hot exhaust running up through it to get to the EGR. i see this intake staying relatively cooler than a regular cast intake that would be thicker.
also i welded up the EGR hole in the lower. so there will be NO EGR at all. there wont be any exhaust gases at all coming up though even the lower intake. so it wont heat up the lower. i'm not sure on how much this would help but i think it would help some along with the heat dissapation deal i discussed above.
i measured and made the TB flange come out to exactly where the TB would mount up on a stock setup. i measure the hole on my typhoon and added 2 inches or so (thickness of EGR spacer) to bring the mounting flange to the stock location, i made the 2 extra holes to mount the throttle cable to, so i will be able to use the stock throttle cable and inlet tube from the blower with no problems. and yes lol i had to notch the flange a tad bit for it to clear the IAC motor, it protrudes past the mounting surface on the TB
another gain is the working room, this intake will give me lots of room to work. i will be able to remove both valve covers easily and i will even be able to swap injectors without removing the upper or anything. should be nice.
i was also thinking of making removeable plates on this intake to change the plenum volume to see how different sizes affect the engine. i read on a forum somewhere that a bigger plenum can make more power on the dyno but will be lazy and slow recovering from a shift or a sudden change in engine speed.
i was also toying with the idea of spraying the outside of the upper box with carbon dioxide. as it sprays and expands it cools rapidly, enough to cool the intake and the air passing through it. i also thought of just adding another bung and spraying a SMALL shot of n20 (25-50) shot in the engine. not solely for the gains of the nitrous itself ( would help lol) but mostly to try and keep the intake air temps down some. if i decide to run more boost (12 psi or so) i fear if i add any more boost i'm going to start heating the air up too much and will start getting diminishing returns from the blower. if i can cool the IATs then it will make more power. i can also spray h20/methanol also. that may be the easier way.
i would like to add an air2air intercooler like the procharger have, but with the curved discharge on the blower it would be a PITA to turn that around and plumb it all up, would start cluttering it up. i dont want to run the vortech aftercooler. i dont like the design and the fact its water to air and right over the headers.... if i had a straight discharge i would consider plumbing in an intercooler. i guess i could cut the discharge off the blower weld in a tube to make it come out straight or even towards the front to run to an intercooler.
i will let you guys know it goes with the intake.
turns out i need a slightly longer pushrod so i will get that ordered and should have it this week. and i plan to pretty much have the engine back together. maybe get it running in the next few weeks. i dont want to beat on it too bad until i get it halfway tuned with the tweecer. i have my wideband on the way so i should have it wired in when i get it started so i will be able to at least monitor it.
since the engine is pressureized, i wanted get rid of some small runners and eliminate that 180 degree turn the air has to make like on a traditional 5.0 intake.
the lower is directly under the center of the box. my thinking is the air will come in, pressurize along with the whole engine and just have a straight shot down into the lower.
its also made of thin sheet metal, it will dissapate heat alot faster than the thick cast manifold would. from what i have messed with, with a regular cast manifold. once the engine is up to temp and running the upper intake gets HOT, enough to where you cant hold your hand on it. it gets heat soaked and there is also hot exhaust running up through it to get to the EGR. i see this intake staying relatively cooler than a regular cast intake that would be thicker.
also i welded up the EGR hole in the lower. so there will be NO EGR at all. there wont be any exhaust gases at all coming up though even the lower intake. so it wont heat up the lower. i'm not sure on how much this would help but i think it would help some along with the heat dissapation deal i discussed above.
i measured and made the TB flange come out to exactly where the TB would mount up on a stock setup. i measure the hole on my typhoon and added 2 inches or so (thickness of EGR spacer) to bring the mounting flange to the stock location, i made the 2 extra holes to mount the throttle cable to, so i will be able to use the stock throttle cable and inlet tube from the blower with no problems. and yes lol i had to notch the flange a tad bit for it to clear the IAC motor, it protrudes past the mounting surface on the TB
another gain is the working room, this intake will give me lots of room to work. i will be able to remove both valve covers easily and i will even be able to swap injectors without removing the upper or anything. should be nice.
i was also thinking of making removeable plates on this intake to change the plenum volume to see how different sizes affect the engine. i read on a forum somewhere that a bigger plenum can make more power on the dyno but will be lazy and slow recovering from a shift or a sudden change in engine speed.
i was also toying with the idea of spraying the outside of the upper box with carbon dioxide. as it sprays and expands it cools rapidly, enough to cool the intake and the air passing through it. i also thought of just adding another bung and spraying a SMALL shot of n20 (25-50) shot in the engine. not solely for the gains of the nitrous itself ( would help lol) but mostly to try and keep the intake air temps down some. if i decide to run more boost (12 psi or so) i fear if i add any more boost i'm going to start heating the air up too much and will start getting diminishing returns from the blower. if i can cool the IATs then it will make more power. i can also spray h20/methanol also. that may be the easier way.
i would like to add an air2air intercooler like the procharger have, but with the curved discharge on the blower it would be a PITA to turn that around and plumb it all up, would start cluttering it up. i dont want to run the vortech aftercooler. i dont like the design and the fact its water to air and right over the headers.... if i had a straight discharge i would consider plumbing in an intercooler. i guess i could cut the discharge off the blower weld in a tube to make it come out straight or even towards the front to run to an intercooler.
i will let you guys know it goes with the intake.
turns out i need a slightly longer pushrod so i will get that ordered and should have it this week. and i plan to pretty much have the engine back together. maybe get it running in the next few weeks. i dont want to beat on it too bad until i get it halfway tuned with the tweecer. i have my wideband on the way so i should have it wired in when i get it started so i will be able to at least monitor it.
ryan218
In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
keep this thread updated!!
with your welding skillz id love to see you make a GT40 style intake! only one that performs a little better on all motor cars!!
with your welding skillz id love to see you make a GT40 style intake! only one that performs a little better on all motor cars!!
PUNISHER RACING
Active Member
that hogan is for a gt40 thats why it looks busy under there. i'm wonderin if you made that box a bit higher say 2 inches and run some 's' bend piping through it say 2 rows on top of each other and pumped ice cold water through it how much of a difference it would make. or even straight shots from back to front then into a y block and back to the trunk to be cooled again. it would prolly be easier just to plumb a 40 shot nozzle into your discharge pipe for even distribution. how about the Anderson Mr. Freeze kit!
yeah a simple water/meth injection would work well. but a small 50 shot of n20 would sure COOL things down plus deter detonation better than meth/water and also add a bit of power. its awful tempting lol.
i dont think i am quite at the stage now where i will need to worry about inlet temps. i was at 9 psi before i tore her down. the bigger valves and this manifold may reduce boost pressure a slight bit.
my future goal is once i get the tweecer and start to get the hang of tuning and where i can get a good AFR and grasp on how to change it to what i need it etc etc. i really want to throw a smaller blower pulley on, and try to nab 12 psi. that would be sick. thats when i plan to address the inlet temps
the car ran pretty good before. it started floating the valves pretty bad a couple weeks before she broke down. put it pulled great and was starting to cross that threshold of "pretty fast" to "getting down to business and flat getting with it" i miss driving the car alot lol.
i have had a few rides lately in my friends cars. once has a 97 gt with gears and a few bolt ons its prolly a mid 14 sec car. other friend has a 95 gt with gears. both cars started feeling fast to me when they used to feel super slow. i cant wait to get back in my car. its going to be a damn good kick in the ass.
i dont think i am quite at the stage now where i will need to worry about inlet temps. i was at 9 psi before i tore her down. the bigger valves and this manifold may reduce boost pressure a slight bit.
my future goal is once i get the tweecer and start to get the hang of tuning and where i can get a good AFR and grasp on how to change it to what i need it etc etc. i really want to throw a smaller blower pulley on, and try to nab 12 psi. that would be sick. thats when i plan to address the inlet temps
the car ran pretty good before. it started floating the valves pretty bad a couple weeks before she broke down. put it pulled great and was starting to cross that threshold of "pretty fast" to "getting down to business and flat getting with it" i miss driving the car alot lol.
i have had a few rides lately in my friends cars. once has a 97 gt with gears and a few bolt ons its prolly a mid 14 sec car. other friend has a 95 gt with gears. both cars started feeling fast to me when they used to feel super slow. i cant wait to get back in my car. its going to be a damn good kick in the ass.
Wallzy
New Member
I think that it looks great, but I think that your runners are going to be too short to hit on any resonance peaks and as a street driven car you may see a loss in power.
Looks good.
cenok is family
15 Year Member
Similar threads
